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Technical SBC with a manual trans in a 32 frame exhaust routing questions

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by lrs30, Apr 19, 2019.

  1. lrs30
    Joined: Jan 30, 2007
    Posts: 2,214

    lrs30
    Member
    from Kentucky

    I've started back on my 32 project and was wondering if anybody has any pics of how the routed the exhaust when running a SBC and a manual trans in a 32 frame.. Looking for ideas..Thanks in advance..
     
    lothiandon1940 likes this.
  2. DDDenny
    Joined: Feb 6, 2015
    Posts: 19,141

    DDDenny
    Member
    from oregon

    So many different build styles such as old style crossmember versus new tubular types, rear suspension layout, etc. it would be hard to say without knowing your specifics.
    It definately takes some creativity and packaging skills when using certain master cylinder mounts and clutch linkage.
    Are you using manifolds or headers? shorty style or full length?
    Bullet style mufflers allow more flexability in mounting location compared to say a Flowmaster style muffler. I had purchased the 40 series without knowing where my chassis builder was putting the center structure and the bullet style muffler was the only one that would actually fit, without some major tubing relocation.
    20180401_195401.jpg 20171127_161250.jpg

    Sorry, I didn't take photos of complete system with the body off the frame.
    Rear shot.

    [​IMG]



     
  3. lrs30
    Joined: Jan 30, 2007
    Posts: 2,214

    lrs30
    Member
    from Kentucky

    I guess I should have worded the question different, I am just curious as to how others have done their set up, regardless of chassis set up, but all your points are valuable for sure, and thanks for sharing your pics. I like the way your exhaust is ran out the back. My clutch and brake set up is the standard under floor mount like yours, my chassis is set up with a tubular cross member simmilar to yours, and I am running shorty headers, I have a flow master exhaust kit that I got super cheap but not sold on the mufflers even though they are the smaller bodied type.
     
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  4. Here's a picture of mine off the '32. I have block huggers and it all slides in under the back of the car. Just raise it up and attach the hangers. You can see the car in the trailer up on jackstands. I have a SBC T-5 and stock frame rails with a Chassis Engineering center section. If that helps you...

    IMG_1887.JPG
     

  5. 41rodderz
    Joined: Sep 27, 2010
    Posts: 6,540

    41rodderz
    Member
    from Oregon

    Not wanting to be a "Negative Nancy " but relative to safety , I don't think having a car on jack stands in a trailer when your working under it is the best way. If something happened you are blocked in with no real room to get away as well as anyone getting to you .
     
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  6. statesblue
    Joined: Mar 5, 2008
    Posts: 266

    statesblue
    Member
    from Luzerne Pa

    IMG_20170107_155859583[1].jpg IMG_20170112_072200873[1].jpg IMG_20170117_145619476[1].jpg

    Hope these help
     
    lrs30 likes this.
  7. lrs30
    Joined: Jan 30, 2007
    Posts: 2,214

    lrs30
    Member
    from Kentucky

    lothiandon1940 likes this.
  8. beater32
    Joined: Mar 23, 2008
    Posts: 368

    beater32
    Member

    Best I could find. IMG_20171001_094348.jpeg IMG_20171001_094352.jpeg

    Sent from my ZTE R84 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  9. lrs30
    Joined: Jan 30, 2007
    Posts: 2,214

    lrs30
    Member
    from Kentucky

    lothiandon1940 likes this.
  10. Dino 64
    Joined: Jul 13, 2012
    Posts: 2,400

    Dino 64
    Member
    from Virginia

    01AA62F7-7FE8-4633-AFEE-189923FFE3B6.jpeg CD9FC78E-75DD-4CB9-824F-12CF51E40F1C.jpeg 5760B33E-7A81-45FE-91C6-B0E265C43C35.jpeg A9BAFC22-36BC-44B0-A864-1B2D57DCA899.jpeg 638E2099-45B5-4463-ABC4-C17FDA4BC4BB.jpeg 22F90E72-94A7-4121-AE46-0561800D55A3.jpeg C53B91C9-F270-4929-8500-DE1E05DB75A0.jpeg 32 chassis, will have a 31 coupe body.
     
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  11. This is how I did my 32 exhaust. Body & Frame # 3 002 (Medium).jpg
     
  12. lrs30
    Joined: Jan 30, 2007
    Posts: 2,214

    lrs30
    Member
    from Kentucky

    I like how you routed yours, I may end up doing the same in the future, I have canted turn downs on mine right before the axle, so time will tell on how gassed out I will be in side the cabin once I get the rear bulkhead installed inside.. thanks for sharing. Curious on how you are doing your clutch set up, are you going hyd. or mechanical?
     
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  13. Dino 64
    Joined: Jul 13, 2012
    Posts: 2,400

    Dino 64
    Member
    from Virginia

    Thanks for the kind words. Hydraulic though people have told me they’re great until they start leaking :eek:, we’ll see :)
     
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  14. figure8
    Joined: Oct 4, 2006
    Posts: 95

    figure8
    Member

    My 5-w has the exhaust exiting under the car right ahead of the rear axle. Get a lot of droning noise in the car. I'm going to re-do it this winter to exit at the rear under the gas tank
     
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  15. lrs30
    Joined: Jan 30, 2007
    Posts: 2,214

    lrs30
    Member
    from Kentucky

    That’s what I was afraid of, I ran out of pipe so I just finished it where I could for now to get it drivable.
     
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  16. lrs30
    Joined: Jan 30, 2007
    Posts: 2,214

    lrs30
    Member
    from Kentucky

    71A780A0-0ECB-4BF6-BDB6-F6CC35FB9FCC.jpeg
    I’m going Hyd. Also but I’m using a wilwood push style slave cyl. And a regular style throwout bearing. Instead of the Hyd. Style throwout. I hope it works if it doesn’t i May just use a cable pull. I have a cable from one of my old Harley’s that I think I could make work. I compared it to an old cable I had from a Chev pick up and the cable is a lot thicker so I think it would hold up, and it’s plenty short so routing shouldn’t be to crazy. But that’s a plan B as I forgot I had the cable when I did the slave cyl.
     
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  17. lrs30
    Joined: Jan 30, 2007
    Posts: 2,214

    lrs30
    Member
    from Kentucky

    Here is a pic of when I started the exhaust. I will have to see if I have one of it finished. It’s a 2.5” pipe flowmaster you build kit that I got off a guy on CL cheap cheap so it was right in my budget.
     

    Attached Files:

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  18. Dino 64
    Joined: Jul 13, 2012
    Posts: 2,400

    Dino 64
    Member
    from Virginia

    Nice ! I think you have a better set up with the slave cylinder although it takes up more room. If it fails at least you don’t have to pull the tranny :eek::rolleyes::):)
     
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  19. lrs30
    Joined: Jan 30, 2007
    Posts: 2,214

    lrs30
    Member
    from Kentucky

    Here is what it looks like from behind. Still gotta cut the driver side it so it’s even with the passenger side. I tried to keep the same angle as the coil overs to keep some symmetry. And here is one of the mounts and there are 2 more mounts that run parallel to the mufflers and attach to the muffler housings and the mid crossmember with exhaust bushings like the ones pictured. And the whole system is three pieces. Coupled at the end of the 90 off the collector, and before the muffler for ease of removal. I wanted to weld it up complete and I might do it when put it back together after I paint it or maybe just split it once somewhere in the middle instead. This is my first go round doing a ground up build so I figured I’d get it running/driving work out the bugs and then if/when everything seems to work as it should I will rework what needs reworked and then do final paint and fit finish. Might not work for most of ya that way, but that’s how I think it will work best for me.
     

    Attached Files:

  20. lrs30
    Joined: Jan 30, 2007
    Posts: 2,214

    lrs30
    Member
    from Kentucky

    Well I bought a style like you have and actually have it for sale in the classifieds, but I feared what you fear, so I figured I go a different route. But I know a well known builder that uses the internal style and has several cars out there with 30k on the odometer and no problems. So who knows. And yes it does take up a lot of room, and I didn’t have a whole lot of space to fit the exhaust but I did have enough for it. I also wrapped the exhaust to help keep the heat away from it, like I said time will tell. Lol
     
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  21. Dino 64
    Joined: Jul 13, 2012
    Posts: 2,400

    Dino 64
    Member
    from Virginia

    Nice car ! What color is that ?
     
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  22. lrs30
    Joined: Jan 30, 2007
    Posts: 2,214

    lrs30
    Member
    from Kentucky

    It’s just gel-coat it’s a glass body. But i think I’m either gonna go black or 32 Tunis Gray
     
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  23. lrs30
    Joined: Jan 30, 2007
    Posts: 2,214

    lrs30
    Member
    from Kentucky

    Did I do a more harm than good by wrapping my exhaust? My thoughts are it might help with heat on the fiberglass floor.
     
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  24. Dino 64
    Joined: Jul 13, 2012
    Posts: 2,400

    Dino 64
    Member
    from Virginia

    You might have just opened a can ‘o worms:eek:;):)
     
    lothiandon1940 likes this.
  25. .............Like this?:D can-of-worms.jpg
     
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  26. Hopefully it will work out.:):)
     
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  27. Dino 64
    Joined: Jul 13, 2012
    Posts: 2,400

    Dino 64
    Member
    from Virginia

    Definitely a difference in opinion about it, I really don’t know what’s best:confused::(
     
    lothiandon1940 likes this.
  28. It does help with insulation, but some of the wraps like to absorb moisture. I've seen it used on a number of motorcycles and long-term it's rotted the exhaust off of those. Personally, I'd fab some aluminum heat shields to reflect the heat away.
     
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  29. LM14
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,936

    LM14
    Member Emeritus
    from Iowa

    Different engine and trans than you asked about but it might give you a few ideas.
    SPark

    exh1.jpg exh2.jpg exh3.jpg exh5.jpg exh11.png exh16.png exh21.jpg exh22.jpg exh26.jpg exh27.jpg exh28.jpg
     
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  30. Dino 64
    Joined: Jul 13, 2012
    Posts: 2,400

    Dino 64
    Member
    from Virginia

    I know Sanderson specifically says in their instructions not to wrap. But the Hutch Built 32 roadster which is a fantastic build, done by a very skilled builder, wrapped the whole exhaust system. ???
     
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