Register now to get rid of these ads!

Hot Rods We goofed , 36 dash in 28 tudor.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Kiwi 4d, Aug 4, 2019.

  1. Brown Devil II
    Joined: Oct 26, 2018
    Posts: 25

    Brown Devil II
    Member
    from Mission TX

    I had the same problem by using a 40 dash on my coupe. I used 33-34 windshield crank knobs work perfectly. I will try to post a picture tomorrow.
     
  2. Hnstray likes this.
  3. I was thinking along the same lines; but a slightly larger coupe roll-down rear window handle.
     
  4. Had the same problem in my Model A with -59 Impala dash. Moved the driver side mechanism to the passenger door and vice versa. The winders ends up in the back of the doors, but it worked fine in my car, don't know if it would work out in your application.

    I don't have pictures of the winders in the new locations, only a picture of the winders... not being in the original location.

    [​IMG]
     
    Stogy and Kiwi 4d like this.
  5. Kiwi 4d
    Joined: Sep 16, 2006
    Posts: 3,564

    Kiwi 4d
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Well @kaspar thats worth a thought .our seats are probably 17” or less behind the B pillar so still enough elbow room.
     
  6. Mimilan
    Joined: Jun 13, 2019
    Posts: 1,230

    Mimilan
    Member

    He could carry on with that same theme by swapping the doors from side to side
    Then the winders would be at the back. [clearance problem fixed] :p
     
  7. Kiwi 4d
    Joined: Sep 16, 2006
    Posts: 3,564

    Kiwi 4d
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Well further to shifting the winders to the back of the door . Bugger me ,,,,,there are three factory holes as a mirror image of the front 3 ?? Dunno why, maybe if Henry thought some dummy will fit a fat 36 dash in here someday and not allow for window winders????
     
    Last edited: Aug 13, 2019
  8. neilswheels
    Joined: Aug 26, 2006
    Posts: 1,213

    neilswheels
    Member
    from England

    So much stuff i've done on my 40 has had a 'knock on effect', fix or modify one thing, generate another three things to do..
     
    Kiwi 4d likes this.
  9. goldmountain
    Joined: Jun 12, 2016
    Posts: 4,442

    goldmountain

    Back to my solution. Did I fail to mention that it was real easy to do? Also, those regulators are easy to find.

    Sent from my SM-T350 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  10. Toner283
    Joined: Feb 13, 2008
    Posts: 1,327

    Toner283
    Member

    Saving $$$ in tooling costs. They are identical left to right so only one stamping is needed. One set of stamping dies and associated tooling versus 2 sets of dies/tooling if they had been left side/right side specific stampings.

    And as far as the electric switches, we have a set in our Coupe and they work really well. However ours are not Autoloc ones. The Autoloc/Hoffman group stuff is junk. Save yourself the aggravation and stay away from it. And as far as someone trying to wind the window down with the power off, they only move a few degrees and then they have a very positive solid stop. Somebody would either break the handle or tear the winder mount out of the door before they break the winder switch.

    I cannot remember who made the ones we have as that's 12 or 15 years ago that we bought them. However they were Model A specific, they had the holes in the right place and they bolted right into the doors in the stock locations using the stock holes with no issues at all. Even had the proper square shafts for the stock Model A winder handles.
     
  11. stanlow69
    Joined: Feb 21, 2010
    Posts: 7,348

    stanlow69
    Member Emeritus

    Did the interior in a chopped and channeled Model A coupe with a 54 Ford dash. It was all painted and a real classy looking car. Had the interior all finished. Installed the door handles and shut the doors. Just realized the dash stuck out. Luckily the handle cleared with the window down. Opened the door and rolled the window up. Shut the door and the crank also cleared. Told the owner and he didn`t even think to check that out as he never installed the handles yet. Lucky day for us all.
     
    Kiwi 4d likes this.
  12. Automotive Stud
    Joined: Sep 26, 2004
    Posts: 4,304

    Automotive Stud
    Member

    Probably unpopular opinion, but the stock tank with that dash looks like an ongoing headache. I'd eliminate the fuel tank there, then rework the dash further forward.
     
  13. Kiwi 4d
    Joined: Sep 16, 2006
    Posts: 3,564

    Kiwi 4d
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    How is it a headache?
     
  14. Use the 46 48 wind wing cranks and you'll be set.
     
  15. Kiwi 4d
    Joined: Sep 16, 2006
    Posts: 3,564

    Kiwi 4d
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Thanks to @kaspar the solution was right there with the factory stamped holes . A simple bolt up deal . Now shame we only have two RH regulators < in saying that I don’t think one is even model A. Need to find a LH one to put in the RH door.
    2B9047E7-6ECA-45E1-8AA0-DD2355A5C743.jpeg
     
  16. Both my regulators were really bad, bought new from Snyder’s.
     
    Cliff Ramsdell likes this.
  17. 97
    Joined: May 18, 2005
    Posts: 1,982

    97
    Member

    Trade me auction# 2271137055 closing Tuesday.
     
  18. Brown Devil II
    Joined: Oct 26, 2018
    Posts: 25

    Brown Devil II
    Member
    from Mission TX

    I saw that Bass did that on his Model A and it was a great idea. Unfortunately that was not going to work for me because I salvaged the 60's upholstery and the holes were already on the panels. Before someone mentions to change the door panels from left to right it could not be done due to the design on them.
     
  19. can you cover the un-needed hole with an emblem, piece of trim, etc....?
     
  20. Kiwi 4d
    Joined: Sep 16, 2006
    Posts: 3,564

    Kiwi 4d
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Looks like it will and does work putting the left window regulator on the right and vice versa. We also filled bear claw locks .used mid 30s ford remote interior handle in the old window regulator hole.
    More by luck than good management the window crank clears the bear claw bulge ,and if the crank is left facing the pillar lock pin it also clears that .
    Now to reinforce the B pillar.
    BDC43017-D5A7-4CE0-BCED-8E8B7924FC68.jpeg B0E778D8-8D1B-492B-A9DF-E891CFC67DFF.jpeg 4193AF55-E798-4766-9B30-AF983B118849.jpeg E3405AF6-9F32-44C2-B979-FD6C93A58D21.jpeg
     
    Cliff Ramsdell and kadillackid like this.
  21. 28rp
    Joined: Apr 18, 2007
    Posts: 117

    28rp
    Member

    I struck this same problem when I put the 40 dash in my 28 Tudor-I solved it by measuring from the centre of each crank hole a equal distance on the vertical plane, then added an extra 15 mm onto the edge of each piece of panel and basically cut and switched the left hole to the right door and vice versa-hard to explain in words but easy to do-I found 15mm gave me enough for the stock A winders to clear the dash. I figure if the glass wants to rise crookedly I can just tap the channel along the glass to centralise the rise of the glass. also had to shift the pressed hole further down the same amount. Clear as mud I know, bit easy when you approach the job
     
  22. chiro
    Joined: Jun 23, 2008
    Posts: 1,185

    chiro
    Member

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.