Hello All... Over the past few months, I've picked up some parts, some motors, 2 rolling chassis, a 31 coupe, the list goes on. The most recent find looks to be a bomber seat...an old one. Can't identify it though. See first picture. Anybody know if its a legit airplane seat?? I want to keep the car light and fast so a lot of the following pictures will be parts for sale in the Panama City Beach, FL area....if you are in need and see something of value to your build, please feel free to message me. I have fenders, floor boards, hoods, springs, carbs, hubs, wheels, banjo rear axles, a frame with original motor and title, light bars, headlights, steering columns, spare tire holder, brakes, radiator hoses, generators, brake linkage rods, pedals, horns, and boxes and boxes and boxes of more odds and ends. If there's something specific you want/need, chances are pretty good that I might have it. In the meantime, my basket case continues to grow and hopefully I'll be rolling down the street soon. Will be posting more. Thanks to you all for your posts....you've helped already more than you know. Sent from my SM-G900V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I'm thinking that is just a single seat out of an old car or truck and not a "bomber" seat as it has the wood strips for upholstery on the sides and a wood rather than metal base plus most real bomber seats were aluminum.
im probably going to start some shit here and im sorry if i do but stacking the vertical seems like this is not a good idea.
Got the body swapped over today from the donor to the racer. Still have some notches to cut out to fit the step, and a million other things, but at least I'm moving forward. Sent from my SM-G900V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I'm not a welder sir. I work best underwater. If I was supposed to do it another way, I apologize. I'm a deep sea diver with an interest in hot rods and old cars, trucks, and motorcycles hoping to race some day at the race of gentlemen. I've had no formal training in fabrication, metalwork, or even vehicle maintenance. Will it hold? Hopefully. If not, I'll ask you about stacking vertical seams after the race. Sent from my SM-G900V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Minnesota, 16 inch. Never had rust, one slight bent and cracked spoke on front. 5000 miles on tires , run straight trim rings included, not hub caps. $650.00 Sent from my SM-J337P using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Again, lots of work to do but progress. Body was swapped over from one frame to the other. Still have to notch out the floor to fit the step, but I'll get to it soon. 1931 4-Banger Racer
This is the technique described in at least one book I've seen (Tardel's?) and it's what I did on mine too. I did howveer add a plate on the outside after doing these welds. That said, if I were doing it again I'd do it differently, with an angled cut so there was overlap on the frame sections. That'd also allow a slight change in wheelbase to to get more room for a fan up front...
On a T it's pretty simple, you only have to cut the inner sides of the subframe. On my car I cut out the area where the cross member was and slid it forward a few inches. I'm not at home so I don't have all the photos but here are a few from my thread. Cut at black lines and bottom of the tape. Next photo is the body on the frame with the crossmember slid forward but not cut to fit. Third photo is body in position without crossmember. I don't have photos of the crossmember welded back in but you get the point. Trim it and weld back in place... though IIRC there is a taper and some fitting was involved. . My thread has more info My build thread has more info, starts on page 6, post 160. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1927-roadster-on-1931-chassis.1032920/page-6
The Jalopy Journal
