I believe that shaft is the same one used 37-48 and in the F1 box. P/N 7RC-3575 I looked around and can't easily find any for sale with a straight price on them. One place wanted over $300 (I think it's at least new or NOS though). I would suggest buying up a few more of the side steer boxes though. They're usually A LOT cheaper than that or F1 boxes. When I decided to run one on my car, I ended up with 3 of them and made one I thought would work well out of the bits of two of them. http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/chassis-partsprices-pg3.htm
Got the T spring pack apart. I don’t think it was ever run like this. The tie bolt had no tension on it, there were gaps between leafs because of that so there’s crust coating each leaf. I honestly think they had some... what do you call that, webbing? Like the woven belt material, stuffed between each leaf to smooth the ride and it jist held moister and turned into rust clumps and foreign matter. But the shape of each leaf is way less worn than my A stuff has been. No divots or wear marks. I think I’ll flap disc them clean and bevel the bottom edge and call it good. Some rustolium primer and some A leafs and we are ready for mocking that up. Lose but not moving clamped so I could cut the head off Big hammers and channel locks holding a bolt for a makeshift drift. 20 minutes and I had to walk to the other side of the house to get a few tools more than once. Easy peasy
Painting a few steering box parts, still tweaking repairs to the lid. I think I’ll try and post all those photos together. Supposed to be in the 110 deg range this week so I figured it would bake be paint nice and quick. Got the column drop all apart, drilled out the frozen mounting stud, the remaining length of the “sacrificial “ bolt that holds the clamping bit together, and drilled the set screw hole for the key cylinder to a uniform sized, I’ll thread it later this week. I’m wanting to mount a push button switch in that spot for the light dimmer switch and hold it in place with a set screw because I won’t be able to get a jam nut in there and glueing a switch in sounds like a terrible idea. The commonly found dimmer switches are beefy foot switches and to big for this space. Any idea if the load is so big on that switch that I’d need to run a relay to take the load of whatever push button I find it fit the space? I’m thinking yes? Anyhow on a related note I saw this photo on Facebook I had actually been messing around with a photo of a dash to get ideas for how I wanted to line mine up. This one has 3 on one side compared to my idea of 2 on each side so I mocked it up to see what that may look like for the moment I’m thinking 3 on each end looks cooler than any arrangement of 2 I’ve come up with so far. Maybe add a vacuum gauge and a analog clock that matches the gauges?
Pretty high tech over here lol have been pretty impressed with this hardware store brand enamel though. I used it to touch up the fender on the front of my 46 and after a couple hundred miles it’s still perfect. Gotta put a couple coats on the cast stuff to get it to be shined but on flat surfaces it levels out remarkably fast. Buffs good as well. Don’t know if it’ll bother buffing and polishing this stuff but who knows. Need to go threw the wheel bearings on the 46 so that will eat some time and budget away from the A bit maybe it’ll just be an excuse to try and spend more and get the free shipping lol we’ll see
I see @Stogy is all caught up haha. Hopefully I’ll have some video of me rolling it outside with steering in the next month or so. Gives me a month or so to remember my YouTube account info lol
Go @Tim Go... There's so much going on here at the Hamb, it's hard to keep up with it all...you and so many others do very much inform and inspire...Thanks for sharing this with us...
Alright so cleaning this up. I want to put a push button for the head light dimmer switch where the key used to live. By the time it came apart it was pretty un even. thankfully it seems to be forged so it go tigged back up flat and ground smooth got the switch plate off where a different toggle will live. I’ve got some ideas on how to keep that switch in place as well. Not sure how the original tag was “riveted” on when you can’t get to the back side? cleaned up a tiny bit we are playing with a new abrasive disc that 3m makes that kinda acts like a less violent wire wheel and no shrapnel. They make ones for a grinder as well but I had this one on the bench so we tried it. So far not bad!
Yeah I don’t know, I think I’ve seen people do little tiny rivets on the tag itself and then jb weld or glue the tab to the car. I’ll probably do something like that. Probably won’t be a stock tag so it’ll help me put it where I want. It’s brought some thoughts up about how I want to label each switch and knob because I want them to be uniform. I’ve seen people use 40’s ford knobs with the lettering on the knob, little hand painted lettering on the dash behind the knob and everything from between. I had considered stamping the dash itself. Just simple abbreviations but I’m not sure how well it would read after paint. Current plan is to on and off obsess over it for two more years and then do whatever sounds cool that week lol I need to go back threw my reference stuff for early Indy cars and other speed based builds and see what’s there. I’m fine with them all being label-less but I do like the idea of them being labeled in an appropriate way
Just some random “inspiration” photos to chew on. stole this photo from a post about bumpers but I kinda like where his plate and lights are. I think his tail lights are lower on the fender than stock and are centered instead of sitting in a little. I’ve been considering changing my original mount idea and welding tabs off the back “spreader bar” to locate it about where this is. I guess you could also mount it with the spare tire holder holes and get it to about the same spot but I feel like some tabs would be cleaner, easier to adjust and have it land it the same space. Kinda curious what’s actually being used in this photo. this rad roadster dash I saved for a couple reasons. I’m using the same steering wheel and so it illustrates the change that makes to the dash compared to not having a wheel on it like my previous renderings. It also shows that the gauges aren’t all lined up off the center of the gauges. The small gauges are centered about 1/4 down the face of the larger gauges. I’m being picky and anal about it, but it’s teally the only part of the car you sit and stair at when it’s on the road. The same dash with the same gauges but different spacings all read/ feel differently. still planing on 1928 dutchess blue with black fenders, wheels, grill and visor. Came to mind because I keep trying to spot a late model with a close color to make it easier to find paint eventually. That’s all I got for now
The switch tag had hammer in twisted button heads. They just press in to a hole. I made my column drop lock the column like stock. Super easy and added protection! Sent from my SM-G977U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The more you know! Thanks David. My lock damn near had to be melted out of the drop or I’d consider keeping it. Got a few more pieces in paint. Need to chase and cut some threads now. this is the steering box cap and the steering drop store brand ace premium enamel has been pretty great so far. I’ve beat one some parts pretty good and it’s holding up fine, it self levels wonderfully as well. nice and shiny. Normally I would flat/matte/semi gloss this stuff but it seems like it always looks dirty and the gloss stuff is easier to hose off and have look half clean caps good to go, think I’m going to hit the face of the column drop with another pass. Some textured/cast/forged stuff it seems to just soak it up and it loses some shine. Gonna give it another wet coat and call it good
As for color doesn't GM have a color close to that for the small SUVs. Only problem is anything new is probably going to have WAYYY too much metallic in it to look right. Sent from my rotary phone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Kia, Jeep, Toyota and a few other have about a dozen non metallic muted earth tones the last few years I just need to go drive threw the dealership I think
Well I ordered everything from Macs this morning and promptly had a heart attack when they charged me almost the same amount for shipping as what the parts cost me. It’s been close to 7 years since the last time I ordered from them and I now I remember why. Probably won’t be making that mistake again. Aaaaanyhow I did find that they do not have the upper bearing cup/race even though its listen online/in the catalog. A quick google and it seems no one does. So I’m on the hunt for a good B-3552 @flatout51 has a froze box for me so I’m hoping I pull that one apart and find a race that will work. Feeling a hair defeated that it cost that much to get my parts to me and I’m still shy a part but I’m hoping I come up with one quick and I can finally steer this thing!
I believe Macs sells though Amazon too? I think I ordered stuff through Amazon just to save on shipping.
What type of bearing is it for? Tapered roller. caged ball? If you can find a parts guy with a Timken book he can probably measure what's left of the old one and find a new one. Whose number is the one you listed? What year is the Box? Car or truck?
40 ford car, the bearing is a tappered roller and the race/cup I need is the upper one number B-3552 that’s the ford number and the number Macs carries it under There’s some other cup some people are using but it’s apparently taller and needs machined to work. At that point I’d sooner take it to a machinist and have him make me one if it’s going to need machined anyways. I’ll see if I can find some specs for you in the next while.
I have some old books that I got when a shop I used to work at closed. I'll try and look tomorrow. I may be able to cross the Ford number. You might be able to have the box machined to use the cup that is available. Grinding on the cup could take away the hardening.
I saw someone made a spacer ring that pressed around the lower race to make it larger around and fit into the box. The upper and lower bearing are the same the cups/races just have a different OD. I saw a reference to a timken 6 or 06 maybe? But the thread seemed pretty confusing and that may have been for the other one.
Sorry, Nothing in my books. It does appear that Ford and Timken numbers are the same. Try this: https://mibearings.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=148448
Tim, Coming along great. Been watching your progress. Between you, Dr. Dave and Cliff R., getting lots of ideas and just takin it all in. My build pretty much still stalled. Can’t wait to lower mine! That dash photo you posted. It looks like that dash is tilted in at the bottom. Is that setup still using the cowl gas tank? Do you know? Also, that picture of the rear of that Tudor with those lights is awsome. I also like the reflection in the back of what’s sitting behind it! Keep up the great work!
Thanks for the compliment! No idea on the dash’s I more or less jist found the photos here and there. Think a buddy has a bearing race for me, should have it in a week or so progress!
Well shit speedway and Macs orders showed up within minutes of each other! Mac’s did send me two lower bearing cups though. He told me on the phone the upper is discontinued so I’m not sure why he figured he’d just send me two lowers? The box does say upper and lower race but they are clearly different parts, they don’t use the same race. If it was less that $25 I might just shelf it but I’m gonna send it back. $25 for a race I can’t use and didn’t order Is a bit much. But they did get here fast so I’m not real pissy or anything I also got my carb adapter from speedway. Looks so dang nice I’m leery of bolting it on my crusty motor with out wrapping it up first lol
Is this the part you are chasing?? 48-56 pickup upper bearing cup?? I have bought this, but have not yet overhauled my steering box, so haven't installed it yet. I have bought a number of items from this seller. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Steering-gear-bearing-cup-1932-35-Ford-lower-37-48-48-52-pickup-upper-B-3552/281583031723?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
The Jalopy Journal
