I need better ideas than what I got so far. On my sedan I have the sprint car style headers with 3.5 exhaust tucked under the rockers. There is a glass pack incorporated in there and it was loud. I pulled the pipes off and put one of speedways auger baffles in each side and all that done was kill some power. 3.25 gears and 30 inch rear tires and at 55, 60 mph it is deafening. Has anyone came up with a better solution? Does anyone make a round muffler that could be used? I don't mind a hot rod being a little loud but I'd like to be able to talk without screaming.
Same boat here...... same gears/tire size...... A lil different engine, but still a noise maker. I'm currently looking for a muffler to handle things. space is the worst enemy now... I'm going to run all the way out the back.....if your a lil hearing impaired like myself, you might think about it....... just food for thought.
Hush Power mufflers from Flowmaster are what I run on my 38. Considerably quieter and still seem to perform well.
If you can get your hands on a Walker Muffler catalog there are hundreds of mufflers, with measurements. I just replaced the mufflers on my '46 Woodie and the measurements let me use 1985 El Dorado mufflers. There are several round mufflers in the catalog.
Run it out the back or as close as you can. That pipe run is too short, you need more pipe or more bends (most likely both). If you do find something to quite it down (with the pipe length you have) it might be too restrictive. If you still want the look you have just cap the end inside and run a pipe from behind then out the back.
3.5 dia. is good to around 900 horsepower with duals and 460 horsepower with a single. How much horsepower are you making? I have 2 1/2 on my 56 and its good to around 450 with duals and my LQ9 puts out right at 400. I have always like to have a load pedal. I used to put as big as I could fit in my younger days, but after see dyno results I tend to go with an exhaust that is in the ball pack of the horsepower produced, I prefer Borla mufflers. I have been using them on race cars for 15 years. The current road race car is LS3 v8 with 2 1/2 Borla muffler. Back in the day on my Datsun 510 I would run a 2 1/2 inch exhaust with the longest glass pack I could fit and then a turbo muffler just before the end. I had friends that would run 2 inch exhaust with the exact set up except the exhaust tubing and it was night and day with noise. Hope this helps
Here you go.... https://www.walkerexhaust.com/universal-muffler-search.html Sent from my SM-G950U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
On my Avatar, which is running a bored 263 straight eight, I am running 2 1/2 all the way with 26 in Smithys. Good rap, no droan. Ben
The problem is room, can't run them underneath, no room plus it sets so damn low. It should make around 500 hp, what little bit I've got to drive it, it runs pretty good. I'll look through the Walker catolog and see what I can find. I know I'll never get it real quiet but bearable would be nice. I thought about reducing the pipe size to 3 or 2.5 and running it inside the 3.5 and getting the longest glass pack I can find.
I have similar side exhaust and slammed a couple of swap meet Harley mufflers inside. Really quieted it down and sounds great but no idea on power loss. Those big twins are about 50" per cylinder.
I found some magnaflows, 18146, that have a 4 inch stainless body and the body itself is 26 inches long. Inlet and outlet is 2.5.
To me with what you have it ain't going to happen. The only way to do calm it down would be to fabricate some shields from the lower body, neck the pipe down the as it enters the shield to 2 to 2-1/4" add the longest mufflers you can maybe 2-24" end to end and aim the tips down or back under the car. Like you said about room has to do with a channel mounting the body like you have. Having a very mild to almost stock cam will help too but I'm sure you like the engine the way it is. Good Luck
Probably get thrown off this site for suggesting, back in fifties we would jam a few steel scrub pads inside, block em in with a pin or wire, and that was our muffler. Regular kitchen steel scrub pads. $5 total investment.
Mike, I have some of the things you need to fabricate your own mufflers. If you are interested and can weld or have a buddy that can weld, let me know if you need some of it. I have the st. st. wrap for the perforated or louvered core and the ceramic fiber you need to pack it correctly. Let me know what you might need. Tom Hand
Exhaust is a compromise in a N/A application (Turbos are a fantastic muffler). I have been building custom exhaust systems for years for various projects and a few friends cars and have studied this stuff alot, as well as have had conversations with a former Chrysler fuel and exhaust engineer....which certainly doesn't make me an expert, but all that has given me great experience. Anyhow, with that short of a run, and a 500HP engine, there is no way you NEED to have 3.5" pipes. 3" should get the job done, if you don't mind killing a little power 2.5" is fine, but I certainly would not go smaller than that. And as far as running it under the car, you ave to get a little creative. Go buy a short 6" or 9" section of 2.5" and /or 3" pipe and lay under the car (suspension supported by jackstands so it is compressed as is on the ground) and start seeing where that pipe might be able to sneak through---you only need about 3/4" minimum clearance around the pipe...I usually make sure my fingers will fit between the pipe and car/frame/suspension. I have stuffed piped in cars there is no way things should fit. I did a '71 Charger that was tubbed, and ran 3" all the way out the back. THAT was not easy by any means. If your insistent on keeping the side pipe look, make the outlet a removable cap to open when you want it loud. But something to consider, if you cap the pipe, and say about 12-16" back up from the outlet, add a stub (2.5 or 3") that will hook into a exhaust under the car, that 12+" of pipe going no where becomes another sound absorbing chamber. Buy a couple of mandrel bends from Summit or Jegs and start hacking and welding. It's not hard, but very time consuming. To help join the pipes, I slice rings from straight pipe, then make a cut across the ring so it is split and can compress to go inside the pipe. This helps when you don't have perfect cuts for a joint and also helps to create a lap joint which is easier to weld verses when your just butt welding, which can cause you to get a burn through and prevents welds hanging on the inside. As far as mufflers, you have to just find something that will fit. Study catalogs. Sometimes a welded case muffler like a Flowmaster is a great choise because you can redesign the case, say like cutting a corner off to clear something or adding a piece of pipe to create a contoured indentation for driveshaft or suspension clearance. Make a cardboard cutout / template of the muffler if you need to visualize how it's going to fit. I will tell you this that I learned from the Chrysler engineer, the farther back in the car you get, the smaller pipe / muffler you need, because the exhaust gases have cooled. You can run 3" upfront, into a 3" muffler, but run a 2.5" tailpipe to save space out the back. Also be aware, MANY mufflers neck down inside regardless with the inlet/outlet fits. One of the things that makes most welded case style mufflers great is you can whack off and change the inlet outlet size with no ill effect as the same case is used for all those different sizes on the ends. Almost 20 years ago, I ran a setup in a 32 ford for a guy where it had the muffler right at the rear of the car just like on a modern car---there was no space under the car for mufflers, but there was plenty at the rear. So I just ran pipes all the way back, up over the axle to the muffler and added "tips" to the outlet of the muffler. it looked pretty trick and sounded great. 32 Ford Exhaust: Tubbed '71 Charger exhaust:
To me it look like you’ve got plenty of height out back to get an exhaust system under the car but short on height up front. What about Lakes style header, nice pipe down the side with turn out cap, then turn under the body for a muffler tail pipe out the back. Putting a glass pack/resonator at the very end of the pipe makes a great sounding exhaust. The current side pipes exiting by your ears is going to be a noise problem in the car. Get the noise out behind you.
To me, there looks to be plenty of room all the whole length to get a pipe to come off and run underneath....as both you and I suggested. I guess my question is, from a side view, where is the side of the frame in relation to that side pipe. It may not look great trying to make a loop of 2.5" or 3" under the frame to get it under the car further up as i suggested. But doing it at the rear as you did would definitely be the least evasive.
I built an exhaust system very similar to this for this one for a 54 Chevy truck. There was no easy way to get over the rear end, and if we did there was definitely no good way to end and exit. This double end muffler worked perfectly and quite nice in the cab sounds fucking great standing on the curb listening to it drive-by too. Remember what you hear driving is different than everything else. There’s the transverse system too, sometimes it fits when other regular systems just won’t. You can use any mufflers that fit, like two glass packs stacked ,,,, Or you can even put just an X pipe in this configuration which also cancels some annoying noice frequency. Doesn’t do much for scavenging that far back. Ending in a larger diameter or cone does some very cool stuff to the exhaust note too.
Them model A builds are tight up front, narrow frame and transmissions, brakes and sit low with the classic hot rod rake. You almost have to be outside the frame till about the first third of the door then there’s room and enough height to get back under the frame. Personally I don’t care for sprint car headers on hot rods. The routing gets to problematic and visually they don’t flow well with the car and leave a visual hole,, just my opinion.
Not much room but it can be done. Got some U,J,90*,45* mandrel bends. Figured it out. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Changed out my loud mufflers for a set of Flowmaster Super HP-2 shorty ones...full exhaust on a '41 Fenderless Pickup...nice sound, can talk and a nice tone at 2000 to 2800rpm cruise speed
I'm going to put it on the lift today, I got some ideas from you all, have to see about room. Tom I may need some of your packing.
A ok Mike. We put 18" by 4.5 by 9.5" Goelich Xlerators under my father in laws 32. Sounds sweet and is very quiet inside but rumbles outside. I also made him some vacuum actuated dumps right out of his manifolds so he can make noise if need be.
Did you dyno it? How do you know it killed some power, or any more power than any other muffler will? I installed a pair of those auger mufflers inside the lakes headers and felt no loss of power by my seat of the pants dyno. But then I'm just running a mild 283, nothing fancy, so that might be the difference between our experience. As far as loudness goes, it's just the right volume for me; brought the volume from open headers down about 10db. Inside the car, the wind noise is as loud or louder than the exhaust. Sounds great!
Aesthetics plays a part in this too. With the way the pipes are running down the outside of the frame rails, it would look pretty bad to neck them down the 2.5" and then stick some kind of muffler onto them on the outside of the rails. He'll have to change headers and try to get the collectors inside the rails to do this, not an easy task on a model A.
I could tell it lost some power after installing the augers, I put them in front of the glass packs. I ordered 2 Magnaflows, 4 inch with a 26 inch body. See what that does.
I think they're just a straight through design, kind of like a glorified glasspack. They should do a good job, flow well, sound good and look OK. Please post a follow up after you get them installed.
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