Technical Rut Row, Did I screw up?

So I installed the air cooled Fordomatic in my 58' F100 ( I know it's older than the truck).
Long story short. After looking at how the bell housing bolts were on the outside of the transmission, as opposed to riding inside the bell housing as is 'normal' and in addition the funky monkey half moon headed bolts that hold the converter to the flexplate screaming at me to put the converter on first....I did just that. When I put the transmission in I could see the input shafts clearly going into the converter. I jiggled the transmission around and rolled the flexplate back and forth using the ring gear teeth with my pry bar until it took both shafts in (yeah that came wrong..). I then worked the transmission until it was flush with the bell housing, started the bolts, then slowly tightened them. I didn't hear any scary "pop's" or "tinks" when tightening the bolts.
Obviously if it goes down the road with no issues, no harm.I'm not as well versed as many of you but I have not ever seen an automatic set up the way this was. I do not have a manual for it (no kidding huh?). So I just kind of tried to read the way things were set up and it looked to me like the torque converter was supposed to go on first. Really my question is: Are the air cooled Fordomatics supposed to be installed this way? Or did I screw up and it's cross your fingers time? Regardless I will know soon. A bit under the weather right now, when I'm better I will crack it off and see what's up.

 

Back up for Clyde.

 

I have the manual, I’ll check tonight after work for you.

I expect if you’d caused a problem you would have known right away.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Sometimes it's not what you know that gets you into trouble it's what you think you know that is not so!!!

Jimbo

 

yeah, you did it creatively. How badly you screwed up, we don't know...maybe you got real lucky and it's fine. But that it not how you're supposed to install a transmission.

 

I kind of remember doing this similar process way back while in High School. It was a 53 Ford Victoria. I soon learned that you can't hear the pump drive fingers snap off when they arn't engaged properly in the converter. I never did it that way a second time.

 

That assembly does go in converter first. then the bell housing, then there is a tool that goes into the converter lining it up to the hole in the bell, then the tran's. You are probably ok.

 

pull a smoke test on it.

 

That is correct.

 

That make at least two of us that have done that..........

 

I always stood the transmission with the bellhousing up and dropped the converter in and turned it until it seated. tied it back in that position. the installed the whole thing as a unit. Or just left the trans in the vehicle. unbolted the converter from the flywheel moved the converter back as far a possible and ties it back. Trap straps do a good job. Then pulled the engine. Many guys went on about changeing the trans front seal. I was always if its not broke don't fix it. So those who insisted on a new front seal got charged for a new seal that never happened. and they where happy and they didn't have a front seal leak.

 

Another manual page, about Fords, starting 1954. Pretty clear that you install the converter into the transmission first.

Sent from my Trimline

 

When I didn't know better I removed and installed an automatic while leaving the convertor on the crankshaft. I was careful, and luckily the seal still sealed afterwards. This was a '69 Toyota.

So I guess it's not the preferable way to do things, but if you are careful and lucky, it works out okay.

 

yeah, he might be OK. Let's hope so.

 

Ford shop manual-- Can be done either way.

 

First one I ever did was a 283 with a powerglide, I left the converter on the engine. Put it back that way, too. I looked in the trans with a flashlight to see where the ears were, turned the flywheel until it looked right, and slid it on, rocking it until it seated up. Must have gotten lucky, it bolted right up and never leaked a drop.

Later I found out I was supposed to take the converter loose from the flexplate...one of those, "Now you tell me" moments....

 

There are two ears on the converter, they have to engage into the front pump. If they don't engage properly it will break the pump drive. Don't start it yet. Unbolt the converter from the flex plate and if you can turn the converter with your hand along with moving it front to back about an 1/8" you are good. If you can't turn the converter, it is jammed up and the transmission has to come out.
Good luck

 

I've installed the early Ford automatic like that many times. There's two issues you have to be careful of. The first is the mentioned front pump drive. If the trans goes in and fully seats against the bellhousing by hand, you got it right. Don't draw the trans in with the bolts, that's how you break them. The other issue is don't let the trans 'hang' off the convertor before being fully seated into the bell. This can break/crack the torque convertor snout, if it does at the very least you'll have issues with leaks at the front seal and replacing the seal won't fix it, you'll need a new convertor. This is the reason they recommend keeping the trans/convertor together.

I'll use a couple of 5-6" long bolts the same size as the trans bolts with the heads cut off as guides, that helps a bunch. A remote starter switch can help too, allowing you to 'bump' the motor to get the pump drive properly engaged.