Technical Where/how to start listing and selling project car and parts?

As with many old cars a Father and Son team acquires a vehicle and starts building their dream. That was My Dad and I's plan anyway. Well like many dreams this one is shattered. Dad and I went in as halfers on a 1951 2dr Chevrolet Styleline Deluxe back in 2008. We were Financial halfers but Dad did all the work as I am a quadriplegic and could only do the research and run down parts. We replaced all the rot with new metal panels, gave her a new drive train, got her moving and stopping under her own power etc.. And of course we bought and bought and bought parts to complete our project.
Dad had a bad heart attack in 2010 and had a triple bypass that stopped work on the car for a few years. We got back on it for a few years ,then with age Dad no longer felt up to working on the car and with my disability I wasn't able to. Mom and I would talk to him about selling it and he always said we need to get started back on it.. Well, we will not be getting back on it. Dad went to be with the Lord, and left us in March this year.
So, I have the unfortunate task of selling our project as I am not able to work on it due to my disability, nor can I afford to hire someone to finish it.
Sorry for the long post, I really haven't talked about any of this and I got a little blurry eyed and emotional typing this.
My intent and hope was for any advise on how to go about selling the project. We have over 11k invested in original parts, replacement parts and supplies alone. Some are on the car some are still in boxes, my point is you can't tell by looking at it that we have that kind of money in it. She's a solid metal body with no rust at all [ pitting under the belt-line chrome but no rust], shes in multiple colors with mostly no glass or interior in her. We started at the ground and was working up. She has been in a garage since 2008 and will remain there until sold.
My question is should I try to sell the car and parts as one package? Or should I sell the car and its original parts only then sell the new parts and replacement parts we bought up separately? I know I'll not get out of it what we had invested but I'd like to regain as much as possible to help Mom out as I'll be giving her the money out of it. The memories of working on it with my Dad is all the compensation I want.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Dwayne

P.S I'm attaching two pics, since these were took Dad had rebuilt the quadrajet added a fuel pressure regulator and gauge. Oh and we put on new rally wheels wrapped in new cooper cs5 tires.

 

You'll want to include with the car everything needed to complete the car, but only that. You will lose a lot of potential buyers trying to sell the car without a hood or grille or bumpers or whatever, but duplicate parts, stuff you'd hoped to use in a custom fashion or whatever, is going to add very little if any value to the car as a project.

I've bought project cars that came with tons of extra stuff, then sold off all the stuff I didn't want to use and got the car for free. If you have the time to spend selling and packing/shipping pieces on eBay and whatnot, you'll do much better selling off all of the "extras" that way and selling the car as a complete project but without a bunch of "bonus" stuff.

It would be a lot easier to be more specific if we knew what parts you have for the car, to determine what should get sold separately and what should go with.

Also, I know you said you don't have the money to spend to finish the car, but I've found that cars in one piece bring significantly more money than cars that will take two trips worth of hauling to get all of the disassembled parts home. A buyer from out of state isn't going to want to have to make two round trips with a car trailer and a pickup truck to haul all of the loose pieces home.

You'd probably come out ahead to sell off some small stuff and pay someone to at least bolt on the hood, grille, bumpers, and big pieces to make the car easier to haul. That means a lot more than you might think, and probably wouldn't cost you too terribly much. A wise investment.

 

Sorry to read of your bad luck! My advice is post here in the hamb classifieds...try to sell as one combo, would be easiest...but if a few parts are expensive (transmission,New wheels etc...) Sell those seperately. Where is the car located, is the title clean, what major work is done and still needs...all that will help. This will make lots of readers motivated to get out there and do something to their own cars as well because at least most of us can. Best of luck and maybe the new owner will finish it for you and send a video or a pic.

 

So sorry to hear about the loss of your dad, that's always rough. Wanting to do what you can to help your mother is very commendable. Try to stay strong.
-Dave

 

Thanks for your reply. Here is a list of all the items that I have been able to find. Some items we/I have duplicates of [ the original plus a nicer one or just a spare ]

1. Chevrolet Car Shop Manual Chevy 1949 1950 1951 52 53 54 -

2. NIB Chevrolet Emblem headlight visors new -

3. NIB Headlight Rings with new Rubber Gaskets-

4. NIB Kwikwire 12v 14 circuit Standard Wiring Harness –

5. NIB Kwikwire 12v Dash switches -Ignition, headlight, dimmer, wiper etc-

6. NIB 12V Heater switch -

7. Chrome Wiring loom and fittings & Grommets - some installed some not

8. NIB Patriot Side Exhaust pipes H1060

9. INSTALLED 1949 1952 Chevrolet V-8 Engine and Trans Mounts -

10. INSTALLED 1957 Chevrolet Belair Wagon Rear-end - 3.36:1 or a 3.55:1

11. INSTALLED Chrome TH350 Trans Pan, Chrome flywheel shield and braided kickdown cable -

12. NIB Newport Electric Wiper Motor for 1950-51 Chevy Cars -

13. NIB NOS CHEVY WINDSHIELD WIPER ARMS -

14. NIB NOS 49-52 chevy washer nozzles -

15. NIB 5 Quarts of Alsa Stylin Base Coat in ’’Phoenix Red’’5 Qts of Reducer -

16. MINT OEM Replacement doors and all upper Styline SS trim - Doors installed, [trim is not ] old trim on hand too

17. MINT OEM Replacement Fenders, Hood, Front splash pan and inner fenders- installed minus front pan

18. Set of Front bucket seats needs redone -

19. Rear window Corner piece of Trim that was missing –

20. IN BOX 1951 CHEVROLET BELAIR DELUXE REAR FENDER TRIM [ chrome mini fins kinda.]

21. NIB 49-52 SS Trim clips –

22. NIB NOS OEM Powerglide shift indicator w/box – mounts on the column

23. INSTALLED Elec fuel pump 5psi, Fuel pump safety switch & Relay -

24. Installed Chrome Dbl Pulley set, Chrome Alternator adj. arm. -

25. Installed – Accell shorty Spark plugs, oil filter adapter, chrome dipstick, 8mm Pertronix plug wires, Alt wiring kit, Battery truck location wiring kit, chrome starter shield, Chrome water neck-

26. INSTALLED Chrome Battery mounting tray -

27. INSTALLED Mallory HEI Distributor kit

28. INSTALLED Sanderson SB Chevy Shorty Headers 49-51 Chrome Ceramic coated -

29. NIB NewVintageUSA Quad Gauge Kit NV-1937-BLK-KIT -

30. Set of SunPro Aviation series gauges - IN BOX

31. INSTALLED NEW CPP 1949-54 CHEVY SEDAN Front DISC BRAKE CONVERSION KIT-

32. Installed on 57 rear-end new Brake shoes, wheel cylinders, hoses & P-Brake cable -

33. Installed Chevy 55 56 57 Interior park brake mechanism –

34. Installed 6 degree shims -

35. Installed Brake Booster ext rod, 2.5 extension, prop valve bracket -

36. Installed CPP 8’’ Dual Chrome BRK Booster & Mater Cyl inc. Chrome Check Valve –

37. INSTALLED Weiand Street Warrior 8126 Intake manifold –

38. INSTALLED Fel-Pro Performance Intake Manifold Gasket Set 1256 -

39. INSTALLED NOS Vintage Weiand 14x3 Chrome Air filter –

40. INSTALLED Rochester 4bbl Quadrajet Carb elec choke –

41. INSTALLED Chrome Throttle return bracket and spring -

42. INSTALLED Chrome valve covers , bolts & gaskets -

43. INSTALLED NEW 2 Row Champion Aluminum Radiator 1949-1954 –

44. INSTALLED NEW 3"X10" STAINLESS STEEL SS RADIATOR OVERFLOW TANK –

45. INSTALLED NEW Trans cooler -

46. NIB-Division Bar Rivits -

47. INSTALLED 51-1952 CHEVROLET HOOD TO COWL SEAL & CLIPS -

48. NIB 51-52 CHEVROLET GAS DOOR GUARD-STAINLESS-NEW -

49. NORS STAINLESS STEEL GAS CAP 1928-1952 CHEVROLET -

50. NIB Trunk Lock and Keys -

51. NIB, Rubber Trunk lid Bumpers -

52. NIB, 51-52 Chevy Trunk weatherstrip -

53. NIB 1951-52 Chevy Complete Brake/Tail lights with Blue dot lenses -

54. NIB 51-52 Tail light Bezel Rubber Seals -

55. NOS 51-52 Lic plate Light door, glass socket assembly –

56. NIB Chevrolet Guide Accessory B-50 Back-Up Lights 1951 -

57. NIB 51-52 Chevy Styleline Deluxe Interior Screw Kit -

58. NOS 49-54 Chevy Interior Garment Hooks -

59. NIB 51-52 Interior Dome Light -

60. NIB 49-52 Chevy Door Sill Plates -

61. OEM Nice condition 1951 complete Chevy Grille – [ has 52 park lights ]

62. NOS NIB 1951 Chevrolet Syleline Center Grille Bar - [ extra]

63. OEM 1951-52 Fender Skirts Solid but needs Resto-

64. OEM 51 CHEVY DELUXE HOOD ORNAMENT & HOOD & TRUNK EMBLEMS -

65. NIB 49-54 Door Check Strap Roller PAIR 4561013 –

66. NIB 1951 Chevy Interior Handles Set (6) for 2 Door Car. -

67. NORS 51-52 Outside Door Handles -

68. Unknown nice Door Mirrors -

69. NIB NOS 2 Door OUTSIDE DOOR thumb button caps-

70. NIB 49-52 Chevy OUTSIDE Door Handle Guard Plate –

71. NIB 51-52 Chevy Fender Skirt Rubber –

72. OEM Solid needs restored 1951-52 Chevy Car Windshield Visor –[it is disassembled Dad was restoring it ]

73. INSTALLED New Tourque convertor bolts -

74. INSTALLED Pre fit Right Front Floor Panel -

75. INSTALLED Pre-fit under deck lid tail pan patch panel -

76. INSTALLED Both 1951 52 CHEVY Driver/Pass REAR QUARTER REPAIR PANEL-

77. INSTALLED 51-52 Chevy passenger side rear inner fender -

78. INSTALLED BOTH INNER ROCKER, BOTH OUTER ROCKER, BOTH FRNT AND REAR QTR PANELS BOTH WHEEL ARCHES –

79. INSTALLED Patch steel for spare tire well delete & trunk sheet metal

80. INSTALLED NEW CUSTOM MADE DRIVESHAFT -

81. INSTALLED ANTI SQUEAK GAS TANK STRAP RUBBER -

82. INSTALLED NEW 1951 1952 Chevy car fuel/gas tank steel -

83. INSTALLED 1976-81 Camaro Gas Pedal Assembly -

84. INSTALLED Swinging brake pedal assembly -

85. Installed Mr. Gasket Ratchet Shifter in Floor -

86. INSTALLED TH350 B&M Shifter linkage lever –

87. NOS TH350 Cork Trans Pan Gaskets x5 - $15.00

88. INSTALLED CHEVROLET STEERING COLUMN FLOOR Grommet -

89. INSTALLED NOS 1957 Chevy rear leaf spring shock mounts -

90. Installed New Front/Rear Monroe Shocks-

91. Nib Most All Rubber seals and body gaskets, clips, retainers etc.. -

92. NIB Misc items, new glove box liner, jamb switches, windshield gasket, rear window gasket fender clip set etc etc -

93. INSTALLED 4/12/17 4 New Cooper CS5 TIRES - less than 1/8th mile moving around in driveway

94. INSTALLED 4/12/17 4 NEW 15X7 Vision Rally wheels [ DERBY caps and rings still NIB ] –

95. fuel pressure regulator and gauge, and a carb rebuild kit installed in late fall 2018

96. I'm not counting the parts removed from the car as they will indeed go with it, bumpers, rear window, hood etc..

 

Thanks for your reply! It is Located in East Kentucky. Clean title. Only major work left is minor-minor body work, sanding and blocking then painting it. It needs new windshields and all new upholstery. I have two sets of bumpers, they need chromed or painted however.

All go an whoa is finished, 350 sbc zz motor, 350TH trans, 57 chevy rear end new brake job, front disc brack conversion done using cpp kit. new brake lines, chrome booster/master cylinder, new gas tank and lines, under car is all cleaned and painted satin black, no rust.. all drive train is good to go.

 

Thank you Sir. Losing my Dad is the toughest thing Ive ever faced. Trying to do what Dad would want me to do.

 

Wow, that is a comprehensive list! Give me a few minutes and I can give you my personal suggestions here, I'm sure other members will also have advice, but that makes it a lot easier to break down.

 

OK. First off, I'd say everything that is installed on the car needs to stay on the car. The stuff I would sell separately would be numbers 1, 2, 8, 12, 13, 14, extra moldings from #16, keep the best ones for the car and sell the extras, 20 (is #20 NOS? Those are really valuable if they are), 29, 30, 48, 53 if you have the originals to go with the car, if you don't, these can go with the car, 55, 56, 62, 72. All of those parts could get sold separately, some are just a personal taste thing, if your buyer isn't going to use them, they won't pay extra for them, and selling any of those pieces ahead of time doesn't hurt the car in any way.

The paint, the fender skirts, and the wheels and tires, I would keep with the car until the car is sold, but give your buyer the option of including or not including those. You'd hate to give away a fresh set of rally wheels and radial tires with the car if your buyer isn't going to use them (they're not to everyone's taste), same with the red paint, and the skirts. Make a price for the car that includes those things, but let your buyers know you'd sell for a bit less without those. If the buyer doesn't take them, sell them separately.

Selling individual parts online can be very time consuming and tedious, and sometimes you have to wait a while to get the price you want. But if you want top dollar, that's my suggestion. I've sold over a half million dollars worth of used old car parts on eBay and this has been my experience. You won't get what you paid for the stuff you bought new, but in the long run you'll get more that way.

I'm sorry for the loss of your dad. If you want the best price for your mom, this is how I would do it.

 

I tried to sell stuff on craigslist. The HAMB classifieds Ford barn and other places and Websites. However I started selling on Facebook Market Place. And since Januraury I have sold more vehicles and Parts than I have sold in the past 5 years. All on the facebook Market Place. Squaw
Blows advice on separating it out is likely spot on.

 

Old wolf's suggestion of Facebook marketplace is a good one, I sell a fair amount of stuff there, join some of the buy/sell/trade groups in your state that cater to hot rod and custom car stuff, that's a good place to put big stuff that you don't want to ship, small stuff that isn't worth paying an eBay fee on, and the car project itself. NOS and used factory Chevy parts I would put on eBay, you'll get the best price there, even after fees are accounted for.

You can put stuff on Craigslist because it's free but be prepared for a lot of bullshitters, never make special plans to meet with anyone as most will flake, they can come on your schedule or not at all. Also be prepared for a lot of lowball offers and offers to trade for worthless shit. Even on Facebook you'll get a lot of that. You've gotta be mentally prepared for it or those kind of people can really bring you down.

 

Thank you for your kind words and advice! I will indeed be leaning on it. BTW- #20 is not NOS they'd need chromed to be show, but they have no pitting at all.

Thank you for the tip! Appreciate it!

I don't know where to even start on an asking price for it as it sits... following Squablow's advice. I have Email/Ebay and online emailed receipts for most all the parts and picture documentation of almost every step that was performed on the car thus far... but when you lump it all together ...How should I determine what to ask.. I do not want to overprice it, yet I dont want to under price it and take funds away from my Mother.

I wish my situation on no one...

 

separate what isn't necessary to finish the car. even NOS parts are used when a indivual tries to sell then. so price then at about 2/3 of new price. that leaves room for the next guy. after deducting what the extras should bring price the remainder at exactly what you have in it. If it doesn't sell its priced above current market. You can always lower your price. I price my items mostly on what I have in them the demand and what I think is a fair profit. I just sold a Mo Par 391 Posi rear end. $150 . it sold fast. I know I could have got more. But I made a $100 on the deal and the buyer is very happy.

 

A good place to start when trying to determine the value of parts is to search for those parts on eBay, specifically looking for completed/sold listings. People can ask whatever they want, but when you look at which items actually sold, and for how much, you get a better, realistic idea of what the value is. Factor in a 15%-20% cost of fees by the time you're all done, and pay attention to what people charge for shipping. A $100 eBay sale with actual-cost shipping charged will probably net you $80 after fees. You can look at cars the same way, search for 49-52 Chevy cars as sold listings on eBay and get a feel for the market, although project cars are a lot harder to pin down.

And not that it's a big deal or anything, but Squablow is one word.

 

Yeah, I mean basically I have a solid metal 1951 shell [only used a few dabs of filler to smooth the weld transitions out], that a ton of money and work went into to get it where it is. Even those pesky water tanks under the rear qtr windows were rebuilt. She has zero rot/rust on the body and a killer drive train and undercarriage. All the hard stuff is done but to look at her on the surface it doesn't show. Sadly thats what is going to hurt me on selling in my opinion. the multi color finish/surface.
P.S. Fixed your name in my post, my bad.

 

You might try getting someone to shoot a coat of primer or sealer on it, to make it all one color.

 

Hi B8.
I'm so sorry about your dad. Many of us here have suffered the loss of loved ones, so we understand. We're with you in spirit. And more than that, we're with you on the hamb LOL. Thank God for Squablow taking the time and effort to give you such good advice. And the others too. He's right about the dummies on Craigslist. I'm telling you LOL you'll have to go through a dozen idiots before you finally get to mr. Right. And then it goes like butter. Watch for the red flags... even the little ones. Be friendly but firm and don't let anybody mess with you.

I would suggest that prospective buyers here on the hamb are the very people who can look past the multicolored body and stuff and realize what you have there. Shoot... that Chevy is close to being on the road! I wish you were near to me... I'd put that car together right quick and you could sell it for more. Upsets me a little bit but your dad and you couldn't finish it. Blurry here too. Anyway, for an overall best experience, I've listed on the hamb. Fewer idiots. Well... plenty of idiots including me... but most of us follow the unwritten rule that we don't fuck with each other.

God bless you and your family. God bless your dad. Good luck with everything.

Sent from my VS835 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Thanks for the words and advice Rickybop, I'll be listing it on here and 1 other car forum 1st. Those two boards [ I used search alot] helped us with every issue we ran into. I'd love to see someone from one of these forums buy it, I know for sure both forums have dedicated car guys and it would stand a better chance of being finished right! Like you said you guys can see past the ''ugly'' and realize what is there.

 

2 cents, Contact Eastern Kentucky University and talk to the head of the automotive division.
They may be interested in working with you to finish it as a class project. Dedicated to your father and mother. There may be other schools that could help as well. I know of EKU as I went there for vehicle fire investigations.

 

Dwayne, how far are you from Middlesboro?

 

Question on the "new primer to make it one color" deal. From my misadventures trying to sell stuff, I've found (& react similarly) that new or even old primer is there to hide mucho sins. Seems paint, too, from some really bad jobs I've seen. Me personally, I'd rather see the old original paint & surface rust & maybe even a touch of bondo(when it's claimed minimal at best), to see what is really there, proving sellers' word.
So, the Q is: have I had just bad luck dealing w/lunatics, or is this common-place?
'Cause if the one-color works, that's well worth the time & a few bucks to do/have done.
TIA.
Marcus...
B8; good luck. I sympathize for you. ;( . Hope things get better, soon.
Marcus...

 

8ball26, have you looked into the possibility of a local car club providing assistance? Where are you in eastern KY?

 

Good point, so if you do get it primed to make it one color, take many pictures before priming to show the prospective buyers what it looked like before.

 

I agree. It's a pet peeve of mine when people shoot a quick coat of primer on an old car to make it more "marketable". It's a huge red flag to me as I've seen countless fresh primer jobs covering troweled on/finish sanded Bondo covering huge dents and cancer. Sometimes the sellers dub the car "paint ready", ya right! I'd much rather see the car "naked" than fully clothed.

To the O/P, sorry for your loss and misfortune. Explore Rick and Gman's idea of getting a trade school or club to install that wiring kit and get the car running/driving. You said the chassis is plumbed...
I know you can't afford to dump more money into it, but even if you have to pay someone a grand to get it to a functioning completion state, you stand a great chance of getting that grand back and then some towards that 11k you have invested.

 

Arkie, I am 2 hours and 43 mins from Middlesboro / 121 miles according to google maps.

I too have saw evils covered in primer, in fact the car i'm speaking of was that way when we got it. The previous owner had covered rotted out metal with bondo... . Dad cut it all out and welded in quality replacement panels . The car now is solid metal, with very little filler used to smooth seams in the whole car. I have nothing to hide and would gladly reach a sanding block to any buyer to let them sand down and look.
Thanks for your kind words Marcus, I appreciate them.

I have not, only a couple of small clubs locally. But per Ricks advise I did contact a local vocational school via email last night, no word back yet... If I could get her fixed we'd love to keep her. Affording the few need parts to finish her shouldn't be that much and I could handle that, but the skilled labor would be impossible for me to afford.
I am in Pike County, Almost as far east as you can get and still be in KY.

 

I'd love to see you complete the car AND keep it as a memory of the times you and your Dad spent on the Father/Son project.
Ideally, a local club stepping in to donate labor and a few parts to put the puzzle together HAMB Andy style.

Consider contacting the show Garage Squad. I've seen a few examples where they went in and completed a (highly sentimental valued) car that belonged to a lost family member, disabled Vet, etc. Possibly Overhaulin' if it's still going.

Short of that, maybe a "Go Fund Me" page to gather up a few grand to hire someone, buy a few more parts to put the car together for you.

 

There are quite a few shows that may be willing to step up and finish the car! I think that should be researched as it would give a great result that you and your Mom would treasure forever.

 

Broken8ball26. I am in Pike County too. I'd like to help you with your car in any way I can. I'm also in the Good Ole Boys car club. PM me.

 

Kudos to Smokeybear.

 

I contacted Garage squad, the instant reply advised it could be up to 3 seasons before they replied.. so yeah. I dont think overhaulin is still on the air? The powerblock use to have a garage rescue show but I think it went under as well. Thanks for the suggestions, I'm a proud person, but when it comes to this I'll contact any of them if it'll help us keep this car. I honestly thought selling was my only option, and it may still be but i'll trry every avenue I can to keep from it.

I sent you a PM Smokeybear!