I have the Van Pelt book. If I am working with a 1930 pickup. What’s different or won’t work. Specifically wondering about Zing the frame. Thanks! {EDIT} I am an idiot. I was reading the Van Pelt Transmission book so that it what was in my mind. I corrected the title. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
He means Vern Tardel. Tardel has several books on such subjects as early Ford brakes, Axles, steering boxes., A V8 s..... Well most of us know who Tardel is. Mac Van Pelt.... Has lots of good information, sells parts rebuilds early Ford,3 speeds and has a very good book about them. I'm assuming he's talking about Yardels how to build a traditional Model A book. To answer the question.... Model A pickups and cars share the same frame unless you are talking about a AA truck. Just going by memory, The rear spring kick up Tardel describes is best suited for a car. Simply because the body covers it. The truck's bed may pose a problem. It's up to the builder to decide the solution.
All of the same mods work on a pickup, but you will need to pie cut the frame rails about where the cab ends, and pinch them towards parallel, so the kick-up passes up through the narrowest portion of the bed base (where the wood is). You will need to cut off the excess rear crossmember, flush with the frame rails, cut the bed sides, and then make a structure to re-attach the bed to the frame. It is not that hard to do.
Measure the width of the opening of the bed, with the wood removed. Compare that to the frame dimensions. Make the pie cut, and pinch the rails parallel (viewed from above) where the frame is about 1" narrower than that: 1928-1931 have the same dimensions, save of a few inconsequential things. Swinging the rails into a parallel position effectively makes them longer. Make sure that you correct this when doing the kick.
So here I am nearly done with chassis, and never once considered narrowing frame. Don’t know what I’m gonna do now. Chassis is for a RPU.
Van Pelt? As in Lucy Van Pelt, the girl who always pulled the football away from Charlie Brown in the Peanuts comic strip? Be wary of her shenanigans.
My frame at widest point is 39 3/4 , the panel that my hand is on can be un riveted and moved out 1/4 inch on each side to clear frame, eliminating the need for cutting it up. Bottom pic show at least a half inch that bottom panel can be moved out.
That is the width at the sides. Those curve from vertical, to horizontal, to meet the bed wood. You will either need to put that on the top of the highest point of the frame, or cut the bed sides, to put the bed where it belongs.
Will see ,I’m thinking the cross member will be sticking up in the bed , in the center area but not on the sides , like you circled in red.
On HAMB you can ask the weirdest question (no offence!) and some guys will read your mind and give you the perfect answer...you know it's Gd! Sent from my SM-G930T using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
They're not, so there is no issue. You're good. Vertically mounted shocks, on a solid axle, go over-square when one wheel goes over a bump, reducing their function. The bigger the bump, the more the function is reduced. Angled shocks add to in-built body roll control.
Thanks all. I should refrain from posting when the bourbon is cask strength. You are correct I meant Vern Tardel. I was reading van pelts transmission book and confused myself Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Maybe they were drinking too....LOL. You guys nailed it, I was wondering about the area over the axle. I guess the other question, with a truck, does the rear need to be dropped. I mean if I go with a 2-3" front dropped axle.
Normally can't the frame be Z'ed the height of the wood bed mounting block, and then not use the rear of the mounting block back there? This Z looks slightly higher, so raise the bed to compensate for the extra height of this Z.
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