Hot Rods Hydraulic Brake Light Switch Failure.

The one I got with my proportioning valve leaked immediately. I went to a NAPA one, that needed a lot of pressure for it to work. I found one that trips at 45 psi on eBay, I carry a spare in the glove box. I test all my lights on a weekly basis. If I have to sit at a light and the car wants to roll, I set the e-brake lightly. That continuous amperage that the switch sees is not good for it.

 

I sell a electronic inline brake light switch. It has a lifetime warranty. Its in the classifieds and available from Millworks Hot Rod

 

I started out with a hydraulic pressure switch. I had been driving the new rod for about a week when someone pulled up next to me and said "you don't have any brake lights." ???? Checked them on the spot. They worked just fine. I discovered I was not pushing on the pedal hard enough to set off the switch. The car weighs 2000 pounds and has fantastic brakes. The brakes were stopping the car way before the lights came on. OK. Went to a switch with supposedly lighter pressure to activate. Same results. I finally went to a mechanical switch. No more problems.

 

Mechanical switch = no more problems.

I'm all about no more problems. I can't figure out why guys would want to install something with such a huge failure rate.

 

Fuck that

 

The itty bitty micro switch in any MC handle bar control will last for 20 years of daily riding.

 

I read once that the majority of motorcyclist deaths occur sitting still at stop lights. I don't think turning off your brake lights when sitting still in the middle of the street is a great fix to this issue. Just a thought for consideration.

 

Go to the local Harley dealership and buy a good one. They run a little more than a Painless switch but they hang in there.

 

Hey Beaner wanna have some fun ?
Next time you’re at the local Harley dealer and they ask you what are you looking for or how can I help you ,,,, Tell them you’re looking for anything with the made America or USA sticker on it. . Unless it’s a very old shop they won’t have a damn thing

 

My Hiboy "A" roadster has a pressure switch installed by P&J for the guy who started the previous owner who had purchased a rolling chassis from Brookville and never finished the build. Have no idea what brand switch it is, but it still works.
But after reading this thread, I'm giving some thought to changing over to a mechanical switch.

 

I had a '64 Fairlane 200/2 speed Fordomatic. In gear on level ground it did not require enough pedal effort to activate the brake lights. Bad situation, sitting still with no brake lights. I also have a mid '80's F250 with a mechanical switch that is spring loaded so that it requires some pedal effort to activate it, but the brakes can still be applied without activating it. Another bad idea causing a bad situation. All of that junk was replaced with a GM mechanical switch that was adjusted so any pedal movement activated the brake lights. I like the people behind me to know I am slowing down.

 

Along with the amp draw of some tail lights I'd say that where we place the switch has a lot to do with failure on our rods. I lost track of how many I replaced on my 48 with the switch behind the master cylinder on the frame rail. I went that way because my toe board was a mess after I switched back from the subframe frame to a stock frame.
As far as the oem thing goes, I remember replacing a lot of Ford brake switches mounted on the master cylinder in my years of wrenching in shops.
I'd agree on one thing and that is that is that properly installed relays help any switch live a lot longer.

 

Got banjo bolts on your ride ?

 

That's a kool unit. What is the factory application for it? Can it be bought over the counter at any parts house? Looks like it will screw right into the early Ford master and replace the Old stock unit.

 

The web address is there in the pic.
I think it’s made by them for custom motorcycles. But it will work on anything with a banjo bolt. They have it in a 10 mm metric thread too.