H.A.M.B. I have a brand new, un-used 60’s Mustang style gas tank. I’ve considered relocating the filler from the center to the edge of the tank to use the stock fuel door on my 54 Chevy. Would welding a patch and the new filler location cause a point for corrosion that would rust inside the tank? Would it be better to just use the existing filler location with a run of fuel filler hose? Thanks Sent from my iPad using H.A.M.B.
Yes it is a point for corrosion to begin. BUT you should be using POR gas tank sealer on every gas tank, even new ones so that takes care of welding alterations. I have a new Mustang tank with a one inch hole and will weld it.
Can you buy a new one like this? https://www.ebay.com/i/330836254266?chn=ps Also new tanks here: http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=results/category_id=63/mode=cat/cat63.htm It's so much easier when you get the one that fits your car.
for the love of god, do not use a that tank sealer crap on it. If you have a new tank it does not need to be sealed. Its a new tank, the point of a new tank is to not have to seal up an old tank with that sealer crap. It will eventually brake down and plug things up. Especially with todays BS fuel mixes.
With any new or used tank repairs that welding needs to be done it has to be coated or it'll rust......which is worse. I guess you could have it cad plated again. I just did this with my panel truck tank, baffle broke free, took the sender out. Cut a hole on top to repair baffle and had to coat the inside to keep it from rusting or leaking from the weld (as a secondary measure). Panel tanks are not repo'd and are hard to find another clean one. I had a friends car coated in the 90's and it's still working fine, I'm thinking there's a few different qualities of products out there.
I had to make quite a few alterations to my new TanksInc tank on my 34. I had to notch it around the QC, move the location of the sending unit and change the location slightly of the filler neck. I don't weld Stainless so I had to use a steel tank. You are kind of damned if you do and damned if you don't regarding sealers. I opted to not seal the tank from many threads about liners falling apart causing issues.
Tread rust or a coating that will come loose. I had a motobike gastank sealed and after a few years the coating started to came loose. I can tell you it is easier to handle the rust than get rid of the coating that will be partly loose and the other half is still in tact.
Yes the tank may rust where you weld it. I would hope you weld is so that it does not leak from your welds. I am going to guess that this car will be treated with some care and not out on salty winter roads? Then just spray some cold galvanizing compound on your outside welds and run it. You might have to repair the rust in about 20 years.
2X, I have soldered many used and new fuel tanks but I do not use a torch. I heat a copper head iron (1940's) and place it against the metal to solder. No flame.
Thanks for the information guys. I’m excited to make some progress after little-to-none the last few years. Just trying not to cause myself more work or problems down the line. Much appreciated. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
I would solder it and tin any bare spots or cut edges with solder. Use galvanized steel for patches. Bare steel will rust, and sealers are a last resort. If the tank has never been used or has been thoroughly cleaned it is ok to use a flame. But, if there has ever been gas in the tank you must be sure it is thoroughly clean and aired out. I usually wash with detergent and water, then stick a heat gun or hair dryer in the fill pipe and let the air blow out the sender hole for an hour. Or use a flaring iron if you have one.
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