Hey guys. I posed a few questions on another post & got some great info, but I think I may have sabotaged myself by not asking my questions properly or maybe asking the wrong questions & now my thread has pretty much died & has zero interest. So I’m going to try this again & hopefully I won’t screw it up this time. I really want to get this old girl back on the road this summer. I did follow the advice of others from my previous post & tried signing up on the Ames Performance Forums, but it’s been 2 days & I still am not allowed to post anything. So here we go. “The Car” 1955 Pontiac Safari- I purchased it from a guy in Idaho & has it shipped to me. It came with the original numbers matching motor that was torn apart into a million pieces & no trans. Here are some pics. www.jalopyjournal.com/mobile-gallery/65ba4e7157495543ecdc1f33408d1a7b.jpg[/IMG] “The Motor& Trans” I have a running/working 1957 Pontiac 347 with Hydramatic attached. “The Engine Bay/Frame/Chassis” -My first question. I know this motor should more or less bolt right in, but I don’t have any original motor mounts that came with the car or motor. Does the front mount require 1 or 2 mounts & what does it/they look like. Also what rear trans/motor mounts should I get & what do they look like. Pics would be great. I’ve looked all over the internet & there’s a lot of different styles that pop up when I look for them & I’d like to get the right ones. I hope I did a better job with my post this time & look forward to sharing my journey with you guys. Thanks Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
The front mounts are on the bottom of the timing cover. 2 bolts. I have attached a photo of a 55 cross member. If you use the 57 motor and trans you will use the same mounts however the drive shaft won't fit. Also, just an opinion but this sight is much better than Ames for older stuff.
Your frame front member looks pretty effed up, wonder what they were going to put in her? That rig looks amazingly intact, however. Just do what this guy did & you will be fine! https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/my-next-project-55-pontiac-wagon.1102630/
Thanks for directing me to this other thread. One of the videos shows his frame being redone & after seeing his frame it shows that my frame has been completely modified & Frankensteined. Ughhhhhh. This explains why I cant seem to figure out what motor mounts to use. Any suggestions on how to remedy this problem? Here’s some pics of his frame to compare to mine. Looks like I have some welding to do in my future. Not my strongest suite. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
I wouldn't recommend rebuilding the other engine. I did the original 287 in mine and it was super expensive. The kit is $2100 alone. Use that 347 for sure. I'd recommend getting another crossmember and removing the chopped up one. Easier in the long run. Get it back to stock.
I can’t really afford a parts car nor do I have room for one. Where might I find a 64 year old cross member from a Pontiac? Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
They are out there. Try a wanted ad here in the classifieds, but do deals with care, lots of scams everywhere. I will keep my eyes and ears open. There may some interchangeability also, like from '56 and '57, but I don't know for sure. This is the one that had a dumb@$$ diesel swap planned for it, no? Thanks for saving it. Check Hemmings for parts, Pontiac built a lot of cars, you will find one.
One more thing. If that were mine, I would take the front suspension apart, and replace the entire crossmember. This will be a perfect time to replace the control arm bushings, and any other parts that may be needed. Others may want to section the crossmember in, but that is up to you in the end.
Have a friend with a 56 Safari front frame section, as he installed a fatman front end. If I remember correctly he rebuilt most of the original bushings before the cut the front section off. I am not sure if the 56 is the same as a 55 (not a Pontiac guy) but if interested get a number to me via PM and I will have him call you.
'55-'57 same cross member. Maybe even back to early 50's, Most early 50's suspension parts are the same as well.
OP, You might watch your local Craigslist auto parts section and/or run a wanted ad on it, as well. Of course you can ignore the people who may try to gouge you, but you might find someone who says they have all or some of a parts car they might want you to haul away for little or nothing. If you have swap meets near you, there may be somebody there with those brand & era of parts - just need to make the connection. Best wishes on finding what you need! I love the Safari's and Nomads... Gotta56forme/Scott
Yes. The guy I bought it from said it had a Diesel engine in it. My dumb a$@ not being in the know didn’t realize that the frame had been modified. I noticed it had some welding done to it, & a bolt stud attached to one side, but I didn’t notice it was completely different than original. Oh well. I’ll do my best to save it. Live & learn. Thanks. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
I’ll post a wanted add here & I’ll try & go to the Pomona Swap meet soon & maybe find that cross member there. Until then I guess I need to start getting other things in order. Maybe I’ll start getting the engine bat cleaned up & painted & get the interior pulled out & start getting all of that stuff going. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
It looks like a nice start, and is a good looking, fairly rare, desirable car. Don't let the crossmember issue get you down. As already, said there are other things you can be working on until the right crossmember comes along.
Once I get the crossmember how do you guys suggest I go about replacing the old one? Is it a cut & weld situation & if so where should I cut it? Or is it a bolt on type situation? Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
If you look at the photo of the grey perimeter chassis it looks like it’s held in with rivits. I’d take one of these guys up on their suspension / crossmember and swap all all over to your frame rails. A pain drilling out those rivits but it’ll make your motor instillation a bolt in.
Yes, you can bolt it in place. Some people might say to use grade 5 hardware, but I would personally use grade 8, with nylock nuts, and heavy duty washers. You should also be sure to use the correct size bolts, even if that requires a little reaming.
Yup. And make sure to find a place to bolt a brace from side to side before you pull it out so it doesn’t move a bunch and make it a giant pain in the ass to line up the new holes. Also rivit removable tips: grindthe head off and then drill the center of the rivit before using a punch and a hammer to drive it out. The hole in the middle will let it have some room to collapse into itself and come out