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Model T fenders on Model A frame

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Auggie Dawgie, May 2, 2019.

  1. Auggie Dawgie
    Joined: May 2, 2019
    Posts: 36

    Auggie Dawgie
    Member
    from New Jersey

    I have a question about my Model T touring car. I want to keep the fenders on it, keeping it stock looking but hot rodded. I don't have a frame for the car yet so I am wondering what's the best way to keep the fenders on it while also having a strong enough frame for a mild sbc or flathead? I've seen pictures of fully fendered T's with model a frames but no threads on how to go about doing it. Would it be easier to box the original frame or use a model a frame? How do the fenders mount up to the model a frame? I'm curious because the model a frame is a little longer and has the taper to it near the back. I'm guessing I'll have to shorten the model a frame in order to keep the wheelbase the same as a stock model t? While I'm at it should I 'z' it as well? I want to hopefully use the hood on the car as well as get it as low as possible. Any advice you guys can share with me would be greatly appreciated because I've never done this before.

    Thanks for all the help in advance.
    Austin
     
  2. Inked Monkey
    Joined: Apr 19, 2011
    Posts: 1,834

    Inked Monkey
    Member

    Definitely switch from the T frame. No reason to box the A frame with a flathead, but I would with a SBC. I would use the better looking A fenders with your T.
     
    fiftyv8 likes this.
  3. jaw22w
    Joined: Mar 2, 2013
    Posts: 1,676

    jaw22w
    Member
    from Indiana

    You didn't mention the year of your tub, but I have a '26T coupe. Same frame and fenders and running boards should be close to mine. I built my own frame from 2x3x 3/16" tube. I pretty much matched T frame dimensions except a 3" Zee in the rear and a 4" stretch in the engine bay. I didn't want #7 and #8 cylinders stuck up under the cowl eating up valuable interior space. Couple of days to knock out the perimeter frame. You could do the same thing with your A frame. T wheelbase is 100". A is 104". (I know there are some fractions involved.) So there is your 4" stretch. Z the rear and box it. Ready to go. I made my own hood. I rolled 20 gauge over an oxygen bottle. Extended the rear of the aprons and broke up a pair of 4" longer running boards from 16 gauge. The purist will see the longer hood, but I think overall, the good outweighs the bad here. Unless you stiffen the suspension so it rides like a log wagon, you can't get a T with fenders to sit much lower than this without some rubs. I know I worked real hard at it. IMG_0032 (2).JPG
     
    Stan Back, Greenblade, hfh and 6 others like this.
  4. 41rodderz
    Joined: Sep 27, 2010
    Posts: 6,541

    41rodderz
    Member
    from Oregon

    Hood looks great to me.
     
    Greenblade likes this.

  5. Wow, jaw22w, that little T Model is just right. I love it.
     
  6. Auggie Dawgie
    Joined: May 2, 2019
    Posts: 36

    Auggie Dawgie
    Member
    from New Jersey

    Hey all, I did a search and couldn't find anything about running a Model A frame with a fully fendered 26 T (touring). I am wondering if it is easier to move the rear crossmember forward or to move the front crossmember back in order to keep the 26 T wheelbase the same as stock (to use the hood). Has anyone used a Model A frame with Model T fenders without changing the model t wheelbase?

    I really don't want to use the A fenders and want to keep the stock 1926/7 model t wheelbase the same. If anyone has pictures of what they built or what a friend has built so I could see some reference pictures that would be greatly appreciated.
     
  7. Blake 27
    Joined: Apr 10, 2016
    Posts: 1,511

    Blake 27

    A frames have been used many times in Ts HPIM0126.JPG as with this RPU. Moving the rear cross member would be easiest,
    especially with a spring behind the rear axle, 39-41 style.
     
  8. scotts52
    Joined: Apr 7, 2008
    Posts: 2,731

    scotts52
    Member

    What about finding a TT frame? That's plenty stout enough and most everything should bolt up I think. Might have to shorten the frame in the back to match the same wheelbase.
     

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