Hello I'm new to this site but not new to rods and customs as well as willys wagons, I found this Plymouth at Christmas so I treated myself to a little after Christmas present. I can't believe that it is a Pennsylvania car that has 0 rust as well as 0 dents, I currently have the motor and transmission, as well as the rear axle removed, I just installed a new set of posies super slider rear springs as well as a 2001 mustang rear end with 3.27 locker, I'm going through the motor right now I'm going old school and putting a 63 Studebaker R1 289 Avanti and a Fairborn Chevy transmission adapter only been working on it for a month and plan on setting the motor and transmission in this weekend and painting it in a couple of weeks. I'm planning on going to Hiawassee Georgia moon shine run in july.
lot of threads on updating the 46-54 Mopars on here. Front shock relocation, disc brake conversions, ect.
Those were great cars back in the day, the trick is to find one intact with no rust. Have fun with it.
Nope just letting the body Stock painting it 2017 Mercedes blue and top white with blue ghost pearl in it Found a really reasonable place to buy pearl in Denver
Well plans changed started motor and transmission installation and ran into a significant malfunction, its like trying to put a size 14 foot into a 7 shoe, everything had to be reengineered, so I proceeded to plan B I'm installing a 360 mopar in it i really wanted to doo the stude but didn't want to get involved with steering or subframe installation Will post some pics soon Sent from my SM-G892A using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I knew it couldn't be a space issue. Friend of mine shoe-horned this into one of those Mayflowers........Images by Scott.
if you are keeping the stock steering gear, conventional wisdom is to offset the engine a couple inches tot he passenger side. If you think that's kinda weird check out a mopar A body with a v8. Problem with the 50's cars is you need to modify the heater and ducting or eliminate if you don't have winter driving I mind. check out Butches cool stuff for motor mounts etc.
Hate to say it but a small block Chevy fits easier especially with a mini starter and the right exhaust manifolds. Chrysler flathead six fits even easier, Plymouth or Dodge flathead easiest of all.
There has been a lot of discussion of the old MoPar - V8 swaps; https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1950-plymouth-special-deluxe.1109059/#post-12585903
I know I be done several hot rod builds as well as willys wagons and jeepster, my first rod was a model u Plymouth 1930 era, I put a 360 in it with 340 heads intake and cam was very tight, the studebaker was hitting everything don't want to reinvent the wheel just hate to put a bow tie in it, Remember Real Men Don't Wear Bow Ties that was totally wrong too say, I'm planning on having it finished by July for the Moonshine run in Hiawassee Georgia only been working on it for 4 weeks Sent from my SM-G892A using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I am not too sure what your reply means. I directed you to that thread as it has my post with a PDF article about a small block Mopar swap in a ‘51 Plymouth. I was not assessing your experience or ability just sharing some info rather than typing out all the specifics. The swap only requires a truck pan, A body exhaust manifolds and a slight adjustment on the firewall on the passenger side. Mine worked out great, still driving it - 15 years now.
I also had to narrow the inner fender panels for clearance. I imagine a narrower motor might fit without that.
Truck or Van oil pan, oil pick up tube, dip stick & D-S tube. The 318 fits nicely in a '47 Dodge & I imagine a little easier in a '51.
Actually I was not interpreting it as that. I ordered a driver's side manifold off ebay and the oil pan fits ok. I ment the stude engine would only fit properly if I removed the steering box and I don't want to get into that problem, how much did you have to adjust the passenger side firewall. I know that my old 30 Plymouth was filled to the max. I also used a volari k frame I built it in 1980 it's hard for me to say that almost 40 years What radiator did you use My motor and transmission is from a 77 cordoba the stock manifold is really close to the steering column. I'm open to any suggestions from anyone as I am a auto body instructor at a tech school I preach to my students that no matter how much experience that you have you can always learn from someone else. Sent from my SM-G892A using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The firewall was massaged about 1” in to clear the valve cover. A ‘71 Duster radiator was used. Cools great with a Flex-a-Lite fan. I do not know about a Cordoba manifold. The A body driver side curves around the steering, that is the best bet for the early mopar swap with no steering modification. They did that as well as offsetting the engine to the passenger side about 2” in those A bodies.
On the '47 Dodge the 318 only needed a slight dent in the firewall to clear the pass. side valve cover & a little cutting of the inner fender for the alternator. As said the A body ex man curls around the steering column.
I’m doing this to a 49 Ply Conv right now. Bought mounts from Butchs cool stuff. Any tips? Have you done it? I checking boards now but new here
You could go flathead and get the adapter to put an automatic behind it ...picked up a 50 3 window recently. Digging yours. What ever you decide just keep posting pics
Haven't done it myself but helped a friend fit a 340 in place of a Chev 350 in his 37 Dodge coupe many years ago. I was surprised how much easier the Chev fit, since both engines are so similar in size.
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