I know there’s posts but I had this done by a reputable guy just seems like a have a ton of camber. New king pins and stuff.. what do you guys think? Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
I dunno definitely looks like 2° or so not sure if it’s an issue or not But I’m gonna roll with it I suppose Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Kinda don’t wanna call the dude out he’s been recommended a million times and never heard a bad thing... that’s why I’m confused here. Don’t know how it’s been done wrong on one axle.. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Most shops use a pre-set jig doing one side at a time, and it gets dropped to that jig... The only thing I can think of is that the jig got bent or out of whack. EDIT...are you using correct spindles? If they are for a different make of car, this would explain why it is wrong .
Ok, then the axle was much straighter in stock form. Did he re-assemble your front end? Did you supply him with your spindles?
Everyone makes mistakes and maybe another employee did it. You need to take it back to him and let him take care of it. That being said , stating who did the job gives other hambers an opinion and able to make an informed choice based on their gut instinct. Do you want to possibly save one or more of us the aggravation and cash/time outlay or let a hamber go into a decision blinded ?
Looks like the Model A king pins (with the brake sockets on them) and A steering arms too so we can rule that out. As others have said the camber us off after axle was dropped. If it was mine I’d send it back to be corrected. You are looking at excessive tire wear at the inside, and more strain than typical to the inner wheel bearings and king pin bushings.
I would send a picture and ask what camber is recommended? Something is off. I would ask questions, not demand answers.
All the early Ford spindles are pretty much the same, axle is out of whack. 0° to 1-1/2°+ is about right. Sent from my Nexus 5X using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
That camber will screw the tyres in NO time flat if driven, you'd feel it through the wheel when driving. It must handle awkwardly? https://books.google.com.au/books?id=6DkkCZwy7KYC&pg=PA36&lpg=PA36&dq=dropped+axle+camber&source=bl&ots=5N7YIS54cl&sig=ACfU3U3KLz5eXZXPcYrU0-48OROlB002tA&hl=en&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjtj8KD1c3hAhWTUn0KHZLlByEQ6AEwCXoECAoQAQ#v=onepage&q=dropped axle camber&f=false https://www.hotrod.com/articles/0902sr-science-of-straight-axles/
NEED to rebent it..! As noted, looks close to -2° -1/2° to -3/4° is all you need. Many run straight up, -0°. As long as the toe-in and caster are good numbers, you will not notice a little extra camber while driving. Mike
A shop that has good feedback is not likely to make that much of an error especially on both sides.. YES, I see the Ford mech brake kingpins,but I can't ID the spindles from that one pic. Instead of jumping to conclusions, take some more pics.... of the spindles this time. .
Roll with it...? Unless the camera is making it look Jabberwocky it'll never steer or ride right. Something seriously not right. Camber is wrong. King pin inclination and thus scrub radious out of wackie. It's going to take Arnold Swartznegger to steer that rascal. Sent from my XT1710-02 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I built an axle dropping jig (the pictures are in my profile album) and the first 2 axles I dropped looked just like that. Too much camber. I ended up changing the relationship between the kingpin boss and spring perch boss and solved. Might just be an adjustment on the guys jig if its not fixed in one position. I would imagine given the chance the guy would just make it right for you but unfortunately that means it comes apart again.
I see a bolt on steering arm for the drag link and with the high tie rod that says Model A spindles to me. KPI is built into the spindles and ‘28-‘48 Ford are all around 8*, camber is set by the axle and that one is off .
Yeah they are model a spindles . I emailed the guy I got it from just hoping to get some insight from him. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
I have had a couple of axles that I bought at swap meets that were that way. They were old drops and probably done by the old Mor-Drop company in California years ago. That is probably why they were too cheap to pass up and at a swap meet to begin with. Of course the vendors did not mention the issue when I bought them. As usual buyer beware! You can not tell that they are bad just by looking at them un assembled. One I that I am actually using also had the king pin bores elongated when the axle was heated and dropped. The king pins would pivot loosely side to side in the bores. The vehicle drove horribly and I had to have the axle bored and sleeved to the right diameter. This axle was done by the Mor-Drop folks for sure because I got it from them on an exchange basis. And on both axles I am using the correct spindles.
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