Technical Electrical plug in connectors

I just want to pick your brains on plug in connectors for wiring.

What I’m referring to specifically is for the headlights on my RPU.

I’d like to be able to wire in some plug in disconnects that I can tuck inside the grille shell where my headlight conduits exit from the headlights.

That way I can unplug them if I have to remove the headlights and radiator etc without cutting wires.

I’m aware of the Weatherpack waterproof type of connectors, but I’m wondering if there’s any other type or style of connectors that will work for this application.

 

Watching this, I’d like to know too.

 

I know that Cannon made aviation type moisture resistant connectors, but I don't know where you would source them.
One idea I have, would be to use the flat electrical connectors that you would use to wire up a trailer. They are not expensive, are durable, and they are robust.
Here is a link to one source of waterproof connectors
http://www.waterproofplug.com/
Bob

 

Not to mention swapping out headlights for a new look...I'm all eyes...

 

Here's what I use. You can get them at auto parts stores less than $3.00.
It's an extension lead found with towing supplies.
Cut in the middle
Heat shrink over both leads...about 3" long.
Heat shrink over each lead about 2" long.
Strip 1/2" insulation, twist then hook wires
Solder connection
Tubing over each joint...heat shrink it
Longer tubing over both...shrink it
Now you have a good connector that will last, unplug easily.

Sent from my Bell Candlestick

 

You could use a military spec electrical connector set. Put the female receptacle in the sides of the shell.

 

Interesting idea Cory any examples?

 

Something like this maybe?

https://www.amazon.com/MUYI-Waterpr...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=6GH582QNDF15F7JVSEXQ

 

I use a lot of "Deans Ultra Plug" connectors on my car. You can find them at the hobby shop, small/lite and good for 30A, typically used for RC battery connections. RC guys are fanatic about low resistance connections, the Deans Ultra Plug has less resistance , including solder joints, than an equivalent length of 12ga wire. I use them for high draw components like fuel pump, nitrous solenoids, line lock switch, etc. I also use some of the smaller Deans connectors for small low draw things like the shift lite, tach, timers, etc. Mine is more race car than street car, if I have similar connectors in the same proximity, small colored zip ties or shrink tube can color code the connectors so they don't get mixed up.

Here's a link https://www.hobbyzone.com/wsdeans/ , you can find these on ebay too.

Grant

 

Thanks for the ideas guys, keep them coming if you have any more.
I’m going to look into these ones to see what might work.

 

I'll be using those weather pack style for peace of mind and serviceability should the need arise. I hide them behind the grill on my 35 Chebby, out of sight & out of mind. The OEM rubber grommet for the headlamp conduit allows easy access if necessary. Delphi weather packs are available in 1-4+ wire combinations in flat, square or round as well as bulkhead style.

 

Top drawer here.... https://www.wirecare.com/category/connectors-terminals/wirecare-deutsch-assembler

Used by OEMs, military, race teams...

 

Military spec connectors are water tight - perfect for a car. This is just an example of one style:

https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/18/MWSeries-274679.pdf

 

I think @340HilbornDuster used those on his Tub build...for his headlights and probably more. Since many things Vintage Hotrod had Aircraft/Military connections surplus fittings of a Vintage Period would be well suited. The quality of WW11 forward if waterproof should be suitable candidates.

 

I'll bet you those came on the scene quite some time ago like in 1930s? With the shape being the same...I'm curious...I mean sometimes you can't improve something that performs so well.

The only problem with connectors is they must or would preferably pass though the shell on most so would the connector pass through the hole in the shell?

 

I know you like to cover all the bases; but we just leave enough wire in headlight shell that the could be cut and spliced a couple times if needed. My kid had to cut the wires to take the lights off once or twice to race at TROG; but it didn't take but a few minutes to put them back together. Probably less time than it would have taken to add connectors when assembling the car.
I always feel that extra connectors are just a place for trouble.
If you like connectors the Deutsch work pretty good; I worked with both on truck equipment and they seemed better to me than the Weatherpacks.
Maybe I shouldn't talk; remembered I had this sitting around on my desk. Probably rebuilt that light 10-12 years ago, dug these out the other day for a future project; besides the Weatherpack, it even has some that special plastic split loom.

 

I love simplicity and inexpensive. Those male/female bullet jumpers work great.
About 3/4" x 1/4" I'm guessing.

Sent from my Bell Candlestick

 

Larry, there should be something available in the marine world, with all the hi teck advances in the boating industry you should be able to find a piece that would work. HRP

 

My problem is that all these connectors are bigger than the braided conduit to the headlights and won't fit through the grommet at the rad shell..


Sent from my SM-T350 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

You can always remove the pins from the connector body to pull them through.


Please don’t use the RV plugs Larry, they look half assed in my opinion, the weatherpack are proven connectors, the military style are interesting as well.


Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.

 

Before wiring my truck I picked up a kit with assorted Packard 56 series connectors. They're easy to assemble or disassemble, relatively inexpensive and don't require much in the way of special tooling

 

I think the only ones that might in that regard work would be these ones.
The holes in the grille shell and the guide headlights for my wire conduits are 1/2”.

 

Sometimes being period looks half assed but can still be clean and tidy...but as has been said connectors in many cases would not pass through the shells probably including those.

 

How many wires actually go to a high beam low beam setup...and then to boot many have the signals as well in the headlight. I'd figure you may need multiples of those. Perhaps color coded (dabs of period paint)...or id'd as one fits the other...not that it would be done 10 times a week...

 

Waterproof?...I suppose they could be made so.

 

Some kind of of small profile modern plug within the bucket would also work but it would also have to be pulled through the hole in the bucket...no doubt a very small hole. You would have to disassemble the headlight to unplug it though.

 

As I said, the pins can be easily removed from the connector body for the amount of times they will be removed. I realize the weatherpack connectors are no traditional. The trailer style ones are most definitely not water tight.

I didn’t mean any disrespect if someone has used the trailer style ones, to me I always see a trailer plug.

That being said I’m also a big fan of keeping things simple. I’m just not sure they fit the caliber of this build.



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1/2” hole

 

I wouldn't feel to uncomfortable going modern mini clip within the bucket so 1/2" is perhaps doable...again it would have to pull through the rad shell as well or your not achieving what you and many would want to achieve. I guess both ends are grommeted too...or maybe not. As was mentioned many are running shielding that is not split.

 

Not waterproof, but I don't feel that they necessarily need to be. Using dielectric grease or some type of sealer on them would help if corrosion was a concern.