Projects 54 Ford Customline build

So finally got going on my 54 customline. Been sitting in my driveway looking for some attention. Unfortunately I was a little preoccupied finishing a vintage golf cart of all things, but I had to get it done to free up the garage space and my time. I knew if I started on the car the cart would never get done and I badly needed to get it done and out of my garage. I have been posting some questions for several weeks while the car was in planning stages. I did scrounge up some parts and have also been practicing my sewing skills as I plan on tackling the interior myself. I have been following a few folks on here and learned much from what they have posted. Hopefully I can gain more info and maybe pass some along.

 

So this is what has been holding up the start of my build. It was a mangled mess and glad to see it done and gone.

 

I had to roll the car out on to the street to yank the old 6 cylinder out. Unfortunately I have a little incline to my driveway and it would have been a little tough to move the hoist around. Probably would have took off on me. So started early before it warmed up out there. Perfect 60 degree morning. Couldn’t have asked for a better temp.

 

Three hours, four wrenches, one screwdriver, one wire cutter and two diet cokes and she was out. Happy to see an empty engine bay. Time for a shower and an old man nap.

 

Hopefully I’ll have nice temperatures for tomorrow. I plan on putting her up on stands in the front and start the front end disassembly. Take my other 2 tires up to the tire shop and have my two others mounted and balanced. The first two I had to have mounted up a little earlier than expected as a couple of my tires were going flat. Needed to have tires with air in them to roll the car around so I had a couple of the new tires mounted and balanced. I’m going with Hankook white walls. I don’t want to spend 1200 bucks on wide whites. I know the look better and more period correct but this is going to be a daily driver. So a 250 dollar set will have to do for something I plan on using as my primary transportation. I just can see burning up expensive tires on the rough roads we have here.

 

The plan for this car is like I said a daily driver. I’m putting in, yes to the dismay of the ford purists, a small block Chevy 307 1971 year, turbo 350 transmission and I have a Ford Explorer rear end that I have already narrowed to fit under the 54. I already have all the front end parts to the front end rebuild and that includes the 2-1/2” drop Granada spindles from Dave at Drop em and Stop em.
I did not go with Granada brakes as I am not a fan of the setup. Dave hooked me up with custom made GM caliper brackets to run GM Metric calipers. Chevy Celebrity I believe. If anyone wants part numbers to do the same, let me know. Have it in my “build book”. Using 70 mustang rotors in the front. The rear end will be stock Ford Explorer disc brakes. The rear end is just about ready to go in. I’ll post pics when I get there. I have narrowed it 3 inches and replaced everything. New Ford Motorsport posi unit, new ring and pinion, bearings, and switched the pinion flange to a Strange Engineering’s yoke. That’s pretty much the plan for the drivetrain. I am going to use 4” drop block in the rear. I’m looking for an old school greaser look so I want th back to be squatted with a rear rake. Hopefully the 4”will not be too much but we will see. I am removing the fuel tank and going with a fuel cell, trunk located. I’ll update more as I go.

 

Nice car! Good luck with it.

 

Thanks, it’s a decent start...almost completely rust free and rather straight body. Hopefully, it doesn’t have any hidden issues, but so far everything looks really solid.

 

The car looks pretty darn good, will be watching.

 

That's a solid looking car! I'll be starting my '54 build soon so I'll be keeping an eye on this one. Keep the posts comin'!

 

Thanks, appreciate any help along the way. This is my first 50’s era ford.

 

Thanks, and if I remember from my other post, you were going ford motor? If so, you should have it a little better as for as getting the motor to sit right in the car. I’m going to have to tackle the oil pan hitting the center link issue. I’ll try to post as much info as possible but if there is anything you are interested specifically, message me. I’m keeping pretty good records as far as part numbers on everything I have purchased....happy to share.

 

I have a '59 with a 355 Chevy, went with an early Nova front-sump pan to get around the crossmember and steering linkage.

 

From what I’m hearing from other members and answers on my other thread, is that the chevy2 pan still won’t work in the 54. I’m not sure how much of a difference in the crossmember and center link between a 54 and a 59.

 

Quite possible. Butch's Cool Stuff makes a conversion kit and mentions the Nova pan. The chassis are quite different between the '54 and '59. There are '55-'57 Chevy pans with a notch for steering linkage, may be worth a look.
https://butchscoolstuff.com/54-56-f...b-chevy-engine-transmission-mount-kit-2506cp/

 

I got a motor mount kit from Butch’s. I figured since his kit came with a transmission mount to use existing cross member with the turbo 350 transmission behind a SBC motor, that it should help me locate the motor in the proper location. Butch’s recommendation is to bend down the pitman arm and the idler arm to drop the center link and clear the pan. After reading several comments from members and some conversations with Dave from drop and stop, I’m going to alter my pan. I agree with Dave from drop and stop, you are messing around with 60 year old steel and if you start heating and bending or welding on steering components, there is a chance of a disaster if something fails driving down the road.

 

I’ll have to look into the 55-57 Chevy pan to see where they are notched.

 

This all sounds pretty strait forward to me. Motor install issues started with the first one done I think. We all seem to find our own way around them, you will too. Reading through this I took notice of this statement.

Naturally I thought why not just get a replacement tank from Tanks inc.? I went to there sight and Dang if it isn't one the don't make. I have bought many from them without any complaints. I've also done tons of Race stuff and not aware of any actual Fuel Cell's with sending units in them but I may not know everything there. Stuff changes all the time. Here is something I can tell you from first hand experience. My 50 Merc has the tank fill in the Trunk. I did this somewhere around 1974. Until my Vicky got done I drove the Merc 90 percent of the time. Getting in the Trunk to fill the tank is a Pain in the Ass. Having a fuel cell in the Trunk will be right up there with my fill tube. Were it me doing this project I'd exhaust all other options before taking what looks to be the easy way out knowing now full well I would regret doing it. When my Merc goes back on the road it will not have the fill cap in the trunk any more. Over the years I have hand built many tanks to fit an exact placement and would do that today if I couldn't find a tank that would fit in the O.E. place where it belongs. Past that, carry on you'll do fine.

 

Follow up. Though Tanks inc. does not make a tank for the 52-54 Car others do. Just Google 1952 to 19543 Ford car replacement Gas Tank. Amazon has one. Not what you would call Cheep but well worth it in my book. I say that because I've gone the other way.

 

Ask around about tanks on the '52-'59 Ford sub-forum. Lots of '54 owners on there, also The Ford Barn is a good place. If you can find the OG Ford tank part #, it makes a search easier. Rock Auto had the tank for my '59 for $157 4 years back. Spectra Tanks makes lots of tanks for old Fords.

Milodon has a notched Chevy II pan with a rear sump, if the notch falls in the right place it may work, the '55-'57 Chevy pan is similar. Check with Canton and Summit. I know somewhere I saw them with side dimensions.
https://www.milodon.com/oil-pans/small-block-chevy-oil-pans.php

I made my own mounts for my swap, 1/2" x 4" steel bar and some black pipe nipples for the thru-bolt. Used the same steel bar for the transmission mount which is a flat plate with 2 tapped holes and a couple of slots so I could adjust it back and forth.

 

Front end is apart. My plan is to take tomorrow off and go through all of my parts I bought. I still have stuff in boxes and need to get a firm inventory of what I have and what I’m missing. Also need to clean the garage and make room for the beast. It’s a bit bigger than it looks. Bought some little wheel carts to put under the tires so I can slide it around a little easier and move it to the side when not working on the car.

 

Another nice cool day, beat the rain. Thanks Dave from drop and stop for helping out over the phone. Ran into a little issue with the drag link. He wasn’t kidding when he said he is just a phone call away.....thanks again Dave.

i got a 15 gallon aluminum cell from Jegs with a sending unit. Planning on going in the truck with it as the car will be a tail dragger, and I don’t want anything hanging down in the back.

 

I’ll probably list my old gas tank on eBay and the 54 ford club forum. Mine is super clean and I have an extra sending unit, and I hear they are hard to find and expensive. If anyone needs one, I’m open to trades for something I may need.

I know I for sure need vent window molding/seals for both wing windows...if anyone has a line on some or an extra set. I found some new glass in my stockpile of parts that were stored in the trunk but no seals.

Also have a set of rear skirts, if anyone is interested. I thought about using them but I think I’m not going to go that direction.

 

Have a set of engine and transmission mounts from Butch’s. A little pricey but worth it as I need to focus my time on so many things that I won’t have time to fabricate everything. I have to pick my battles as far as what I buy vs. what I can make myself. I really want this car running and moving by the end of April. Then I can turn my my attention to body and upholstery. But at least I can drive while doing all that. East Texas heat starts setting in early down here and after Middle of May, it gets really difficult to work in the garage...unless you have AC in the garage...

 

Check this out. Same supplier I use for my 51 Vicky, 53 F-100 and my 57 Ford hard top. Top quality fit and finish.
1952-1953-1954 FORD & MERCURY CLOSED CAR & WAGON VENT WINDOW SEALS BA-7021448-PR

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Would any of y’all know about firewall markings? After pulling the motor the other day, I noticed yellow paint marker on the firewall. It is marked with large numbers about 5 or 6 inches high. Mine has a number 215 on the firewall. Is that anything to do with production line numbering? Just curious is to what they represent.

 

I’ll check it out, a few places I looked at them were really expensive. Thanks

 

I am looking at doing a fuel tank of some sort too. My tank looks to be in pretty good shape minus some gunk and a little rust and a little oxidization as far as I can tell. Maybe I’ll have it cleaned. Who knows? Car looks good by the way.

 

The numbers on the firewall are probably rotation numbers, 215th car for that day. To bad your ruining such a well preserved car.

 

Thanks for the info...depending on opinion of ruining, either I build it and get it on the road as a hot rod for myself and others to enjoy, or let it sit and rot away for another 30 plus years and then nobody but the scrap yard gets to enjoy it. I’ll get it on the road and have some fun and enjoy it...nobody will appreciate it sitting in a field until it dissolves from rust and corrosion....plus a full restoration is double than what I can afford...and if someone ever wants to restore to original, they can always undo what I have done.