Projects Going to give this a try '27 T build

This is all very new to me and that is what I needed to know I needed! I have a stock pedal assembly so I will just use that! Thanks!

I don’t need want to go crazy with a high compression head. The old hot rodder guy told me a grind of a stock head the thikness of the gasket is approximately 6.5 to 1 set up.

If I go with this what “cam grind” should I go with? I am in San Diego so I should be able to find someone just don’t know what grinder I should do.?

So my next dilemma is the torque tube. I do t have one...

In am using 35’ V8 trans mission and the torque tube was cut along with the drive shaft on my rear end.

Can I use a torque tube with my V8 transmission or do I need to convert to an open drive shaft?

 

I will also add the the Head or Block machine question. Generally a block will get a light cut to get things square and flat. Take what it needed but keep track of it. Seems like on an A head you can cut quite a bit with out any real is issues to the head. My block has .100 total removed from stock and is at the safe limit according to the Old Guys. To find out where yours is now would only take a C.C. measurement then determine how much more to remove. I'll get back in a short bit.

 

Do you have have a rear axle other than the T one?

 

Yes, I have a model A rear end

The only thing I am using from the T is the body. Everything else will be model A

 

You should stay closed drive shaft (torque tube). Myself, I'd find a complete 35-6-7 rear axle with manual brakes. I might even then use the spring behind (stock for 35 up) as in my Roadster. You can use the Model A rear spring on the late housing.

 

Spring behind will go well with your Dropped I Beam.

 

So I can’t use the A axle if I want to use the torque tube? I need the 35-37 rear axle?

I would prefer to use a torque tube since it is such an important part of the rear suspension

 

Yes, you can use the A axle, just modify the torque tube as necessary. I have not done this. I did modify my 35 up housing and tube in the Roadster.

 

You are awesome pist-n-broke!!! Thank you for your help!

Now to find a torque tube...

Or

35-37 rear with torque tube

 

No matter what axle you use with the 39 box you will need to do some work on the Torque tube and shaft. Here's a shot of my Roadster with spring behind in fab stage. I requires some fab work to move the spring mount back to keep stock A wheelbase. Maybe not with the T body. Seems I not cut the added 6" to the running boards on my 27 R.P. to not shorten the A chassis.

 

Jesus, I need to learn to proof read. This ( Maybe not with the T body. Seems I not cut the added 6" to the running boards on my 27 R.P. to not shorten the A chassis.) Should read = To not cut my A chassis for the T, I added 6" to the running boards and splash aprons. It seems that is what I lengthened the A chassis to use the 36 rear housing with Spring behind and keep stock A wheel base. Hope this don't confuse ya to much. It's just numbers and C.R.S. screw me up.

 

In got the idea

I need to get the frame in the garage and the body on the frame to get a solid idea on what needs to go where.

I want to be able to sit it on the axles but need to collect a few more parts.

The last main pieces to the puzzle are a front spring pack, rear wishbones and torque tube

The hunt continues!

 

I will look at my 27 tomorrow. I know I could have moved the body forward quite a bit. I chose to Z the rear frame 3.5" and leave the A rear axle where it belongs and match the rear fenders to the tires and stock wheel base. You may be able to move the body forward while using the 35 rear end and not move the spring mount point still having the rear tires look correct. Depends on the look your after.

 

Pretty sure with the clings adapter and 32-39 transmission is same length as using Model A trans allowing stock Model A torque Tube and rear to bolt right up. Just need to use the V8 style clamshell to connect the torque tube to the trans. I'm doing the same swap myself this summer.

Also if you just got the adapter you will need the brackets for the pedals, wishbone mount and parking brake. Clings sells them separately if needed.


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Having not done this exact combo I assumed you were going to get just a bit longer at the U-Joint. If that is not the case then by all means use a stock A rear unit. In doing this with closed tube why would you need a wishbone mount? They mount to the Torque tube.

 

I agree with TBone69. No need to run a different rear end. My AV8 in my avatar runs a '39 tranny with stock Model A rear end and it has been behind a '48 flathead V8 for 61 years. No mods to rear end or diveshaft except '40 hyd brakes. I have built two '27 T bodied Model A chassis cars and have a 3rd one under construction. I used '28-'29 radiators and shells on both. Will use a '28 rad on this next one with a T shell stretched taller and neck hole opened up a little.

Wishbone mount TBone referred to would be the front radius rods as they normally attach to the model A bell housing.

Dave

 

Send me a private message with your contact information. I live in La Mesa and have a Model A rear end, front wishbones, front spring etc.

 

Message sent!

 

Ok, I need your input...

I don’t have a steering box or column so my options are wide open. Stock stuff, cowl steering, stock style with different box...

What would you do?

 

My T uses an F-1 box and column, very widely used and very traditional. JW

 

That looks pretty straight forward and easy, I have seen a bunch pop up for sale on here also. Thanks I will look into it!

 

So for me on my Roadster project the driving force was to use everything Ford. It didn't matter what year except pre 48 and by all means absolutely no hand crafted chassis mounts or brackets. Exhaust was excluded, those are about the look and fit. I even hand rolled each cone to get what I like. I don't like Model a steering, it's a personal thing in how it feels against next gen Ford stuff. I went with a 40 unit and here's why. It has a much better feel across the board on the road. It's cross steer, BIG plus. I wanted to use all stock steering mounts as well as locking steering and stock Ford key and on off switch. This style unit started in 35 and went through 48 in almost the same form. Lot's of it out there to pick through. You don't need to fab a mount to the Frame, use a stock Ford one and it will mount to the dash with minimal work that don't need to show. Cross steer rules on I Beam axles. Plus it looks right.

 

That’s the info I was looking for! Thanks! I will be on the hunt for 35-48 stuff!

 

Kool, the frame mount is Riveted to the frame. Easy enough to remove. If you have issues finding one let me know. I may have one more loose and could help if needed. Know that depending on your final angle of shaft you may need to "adjust" the bracket a bit but it's no where like hand crafting anything. Again, it just all looks right for me and people at TROG will get it too.

 

Jim Brierly grinds cams and has extensive knowledge on banger speed stuff.He is in California I don't have his address
He has a book that explains what works and what doesn't to hop these little motors up.

 

The internals in an F-1 box are the exact same parts as the passenger cars from 1937 to 1948. The outer housing just turns them on their side.

 

alchemy; the F-1 box has been a go to for many a Hot Rod over the years. As you mention the difference is drag link or cross steer. If you have driven both versions of them please tell trcooperone how the two compare to each other. In other words if you were building this project what would you install given the option and why.

 

There's a guy in Montebello that sells a converted F100 box to bolt up in a Model A, I used one in my '29. Did you buy just the adapter from Clings? They sell a kit just for the V8 trans to Model A engine that has everything you will need or you can get them separate. When I bought my '38 trans it came with late model '29 gears and a adapter, I got everything else from Clings. Great people to deal with as well. If you read my '29 Banger build thread, you'll find a lot of answers to your questions. I used a Model T spring in the rear of mine, it's covered in my build thread also. Look's like a good start, have fun!

 

I rebuilt the steering box in my 46 as well as the F1 box in my 27 Roadster. Go with the F1 box and all boxes from 37 to 48 are not the same if you look at them inside you will see that you can't interchange parts. However they now repo all of the eternal parts, sector, bearings and bushings and new shaft if you need it.
One of my Early Ford V8 buddy's hear in San Diego rebuilds steering box's. If you need him I'll hook you up. Come to think of it he was recently cleaning out his garage and mentioned something about a steering box he found. I will check with him on that. Picking out a good steering box is a Pig in Polk. I bought one at the Long Beach swap meet and it felt smooth as glass when I turned the shaft from stop to stop. But when I pulled it apart the sector was missing half it teeth. They were floating around in the bottom of the box. LOL
If you have some mechanical skills and a few tools you could rebuild one yourself with a little guidance. In fact Vern Tardel sell a great little hand book that shows you how to rebuild an F1Box. You can get it on line, everything is you need to know is in the book.

 

I have an F-1 in my car. I've never built a car with a 40-48 style cross steer. All the parts houses sell the same internals listed as fitting the 37-48 passenger and the F-1. And my F-1 box actually has a 40's passenger sector in it. So I don't know what the guts differences are, as I can't see any. Actually I think the lower bearing race has a different part number, so there's that.

A cross steering won't give you any bump steer caused by a drag link with a steep angle. But a side steer won't give you any side sway if you don't have a panhard bar. Pick your poison.