What is the best way to get this dent out. All I have is a cheap hammer and dolly set. I would normally attack it right down the middle but I’ve been reading some posts on here lately about working around the edges to get them out.
The rule is to take the dent out in the same order it went in. In most cases that means start from the outside and work in. That dent is a nasty one, the crease makes it harder. I would start from the end near the label and work from the ends and around the sides.
I would push it out with the hammer and shrink it up with a shrinking disc. If you don’t have one I recommend getting one and they work fantastic. I had a bullet that was shot into the headlight bucket and was a odd 1/2 rise . I took the shrinking disc and would heat it up and cool a dozen times or so. I then took a metal file and it was fixed
If you have a belt sander you can clean up that disc but spinning it on top of the spinning belt, that'll get rid of those gouges. I use about an 80grit belt and it'll leave a clean, smooth finish on the disc.
Remove the tag and signal light, and start tapping the middle of the crease out with a rounded head hammer inside and a flat dolly on the outside. It is stretched, so when you get the crease out you will have "extra" metal there. Will probably require some shrinking, but since the housing is tough metal and has a lot of curve you might be able to tap the "extra" metal down or move it so it's not noticeable. And if you do need to shrink with a torch or disk you probably won't hurt it too much. It's hard to make an oil can on such a curved surface.
Ask 5 guys and you'll get 5 different methods. Personally I'd use a spoon fastened to my work station and put the bucket over it. Now holding pressure down on the spoon work the shoulder outer edge inboard lifting the crease up as I go. I was never very good at swinging a hammer in a tight space like inside the bucket. When done a very light file will delete and high spot. The other real tin smith method is to use a Snarling Iron, way slick and easy. Google that and watch a few of the videos that come up. Personally I try not to just beat on a crease till it give up and lifts, they are generally at that time stretched way past where things started by the time you get them to what you think is close.
I'd go for hammer off dolly, moving around the edges slowly raising the metal back to the original height, and probably flatten the crease with hammer on dolly when you've gone all the way from the edge to the center.
I would think you could get a good start by using a deep reach "C" clamp and a couple of pieces of hardwood. Put a piece of hardwood inside the bucket and another on the outside. Use the "C" clamp to squeeze the two pieces of hardwood together. Then use a dolly and hammer. Finish with a shrinking disc. Easy as pie since I sitting at my computer and not actually doing the work!
^This is how I was taught. Additionally, if I wasn't 100% satisfied when I finished, I would tap at it with a hickory hammer handle against the dolly. I have used this method to smooth panels I've Mallet & Bagged.
Something to remember here. This part is very easy to move around when out of shape. They are there strongest when undamaged. It don't take much impact to make a big move when out of shape.
Here is how I do brass motorcycle headlight shells. I pour molten lead (old wheel weights)In to the inside of the shell, into a undamaged area, & let it solidify. I then remove the 'inside dolly". Next I pour molten lead into a shallow container. I hold an undamaged section of the outside of the shell down into the molten lead & let it solidify. Now I have 2 perfectly shaped dollies. I can then tap the shell back into perfect shape Works great when shells are are to be chrome plated. Takes a lot of patience. Greg
In my high school trades shops mid 60s, they had maybe a dozen factory made large T shaped things like that. They had a tapered square peg at the bottom that fit into the square hole on a huge anvil. Each side of each T was different curves and diameters, some rounded, tapered, some flat nosed. Likely made by Pexto?
I guess I need to buy a shrinking disc. It's been hard to spend fifty bucks on something that looks like it should be ten.
Idea;;Big "C" clamp,a cut from old tire as a pad{as pad for "C" to push from inside.,a 2x4 as something to clamp yo out side{ in that case I would shape/grind some pocket in 2x4 same as other light housing in same place. Too have place for metal to go. Do a number of times/a little at a time! Should get close an then be able work smooth !
I don't have a spoon but I do have a 2x4 and a vice. I'll try it, and if that doesn't work I'll try the C clamp ideas. Thanks guys.
Just needed to take a shallower dent out of the top of a tailgate with no access behind so I came up with this⤵️
One more way to go about it would be using a c-clamp vice grip with pads and squeeze it flat. It would give you a good start without stretching it any more than it is. If you really want to get tricky grind the pads to the crown on the damaged area.
That’s not a dent, that’s a crease. Trying to work in such a tight environment inside the shell is going to be tough because you can’t get any swing with the hammers. I would cut it out and weld a new piece in and then metal work it from there. You’d be light years ahead doing that verses tapping inside the shell all day and getting nowhere.
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