Hot Rods Just Another 5-Window Build Thread

Ok - this is going to be fun!

 

Got my passenger door back together with hotrodA’s help after I rec’d the rest on my parts early - go figure! Lined up the window and pushed it into the front felt as far as it would go and had it on a 2x4 on end sitting in the door bottom (you can’t believe how much this helped) and I then first tried putting in the metal channel and then the felting were in the back side channel but that did not work. Then I put the felting into the channel first, slipped it down into the door with the window lined up with both felts, again on the piece of 2x4 on end. I then screwed the metal channel in place, pushed the window up and installed the window riser (I had taken it out initially). Slid the window back down and, after a bit of messing around, got the window riser arms into their tracks and she went up and down. It was pretty tight initially but it’s slowly loosening up.

I raised the window up and cleaned out the bottom of the door, sprayed in some rust encapsulation, put in some seam weld where the outer door skin meets the inner door structure, and installed my tack strips and stops. I had all ready drilled a drain hole close to the bottom front corner of the door to get the water out with the bigs and littles rake. Checked over the door panel and installed it and the handles, than on to the window molding with all new hardware I picked up at Hershey last year. The only thing left now is to finish installing the 33-34 original door pull on the pass door and, on the driver side change the escutcheons to the 33-34s so they match side to side, the new door molding hardware, and the door pull on the driver door. Not everything went smoothly and I had a couple “uh oos” but I am happy with the result......

It was a good day ..... especially since I did not crack or break the glass! Kept saying to myself, “take your time and don’t break the glass”! Lol!

 

Well done!!

 

Thanks for the help !

 

Got the paassenger door pull done....

... and after a bit of experimentation, removed the windshield....

The old gasketing pulled right out and I cleaned out the channel where it resides....


Couple areas with some rust and one area with rot. Cleaned the areas out and treated them to rust encapsulation with a Rustleum product I have used in the past. It basically starves the rust from oxygen and dries flat black. I basically treated the entire track ....




While waiting for that to dry I cleaned the inside window and frame areas, trimming out old gasket material, to apply a top coat of gasket sealer. I masked off the area first ...


I then applied the gasket sealer pushing it into the areas between the glass and frame


Let it dry a bit and pulled off the frame tape side first

I will remove the glass side tape tomorrow with the help of some exacto knives for a clean edge (fingers crossed). There were some gaps, especially in the rot areas. Hopefully I will have things sealed up giving the windshield a new lease on life.

Btw - picked this stainless steel top table up from a diner not too far from me - dame in handy right away with the windshield!

Almost there .......

 

Tom, Rustoleum has several different products of rust encapsulation. Specifically, which one did you use that has worked for you before?? I need to do that job and wud like to use a product that I know works. Thanks!!

 

It’s in liquid form and bought at Ace hw. I used artist brushes from a dollar store to apply it. There is also a spray version I used on the door interior. I will post a pic of the bottle tomorrow.

 

Thanks, Tom!! Yes, a pic will be a real help in matching it up. Appreciate it!!!

 

Here’s both -

 

Got the inside of the windshield all cleaned, then taped and sealed the front side. Gave that an hour or two to dry a bit and I installed the gasket.....

The little white plastic stick is one of the most valuable home made tools in my toolbox. Every time you need something thin and strong like a screwdriver but it needs to be a hard plastic thin edge to not scrape the paint or poke a hole innsomething, that’s my tool. Installing gaskets, carpeting, removing hoses, and so many other things I have used this for. Made it in the late 80s from some kind of cleaning brush. Cut the handle to be 6-8” long, shaved one edge thin, the other a little thicker. Perfect size and strength it made the gasket install a piece of cake....

Tomorrow I will take the last of the tape off and get it back in the car. I did a few other checks on the gas gauge and, since the windshield was looking so good, took a nice ride in the roadster!

 

Thanks a million, Tom!! I've seen that spray can on the shelves, but haven't seen the liquid. I'll be picking up some of that spray for sure. B C N U in about a month or so.

 

Got the windshield in place and the interior is back together. It looks to have a pretty good seal ...


My roadster has a fixed shield sovI am not sure - while at speed there must be a pretty good wind push especially in the rain. Do you install some kind of gasketing between the windshield and the windshield frame? Seems to be about a 3/8 - 1/2” gap all the way around .....

Worked more on the fuel gauge - had another 0-30 ohm sending unit I hooked up outside the tank but there was no change and the gauge did not move just like before. I tried an external ground to the sending unit and one to the gauge itself with no change. There is no power to the sending unit or even to the gauge off the connection block still - I will look for another switched port on my panel with an inline fuse on a Friday. I just ran out of time today ....

 

As for the gas gauge - checked for the correct ohms resistance on the present sending unit, verified the gauge was getting juice, tried another switched port for power - it’s getting juice, the sending unit is right, so, unfortunately, it’s the gauge. Since I will have to take the dash apart to get tha gauge out, dump half the antifreeze to disconnect the water temp sensor since 1/2 the gauge is the water temperature portion, then send it out for repair, I will do that next winter. Right now, I want to have fun and drive it. Besides, I have a new gas gauge - a stick calibrated to check the amount of fuel in the tank just like we all have done at one time or another - quarter, half, and 3/4 full.

And about driving it - I start tomorrow and every day it isn’t pouring checking for any other problems before Jalopyrama and it’s first official outing ..... I will keep you all posted ......

 

Went about 80 miles or so today - no issues save for a slight wheel hop/wobble at around 55. Like I have mentioned before, I will get the front tires spun and see if the tire and/or the rim wobble. My feeling is that the tires are not fully seated on the rim - will keep you posted on that.

Other than the wheel hop, it was a great ride......

 

My wheel hop issue turned out to be something I had not figured on - a bent rim. The rims were trued by a shop before I ever mounted tires. But, I know the newer tire machines put a lot more strain on those rims to mount tires. From now on I will mount them myself by hand. The aggravating part about the bent rim is that I know I have a 5th rim but do you think I could find it? Heck no! Go figure! So I cruised through eSlay and found a single rim so it will be on its way soon. Fortunately I have a pair of 15” steelies and brand new tires that was to be for another project in 4.5” pattern so I can at least continue to drive it around. The other rim just needed more balancing beads and it is fine.

 

So I have been battling with rims. Three different sets of rims - 3 Plymouth artillery (found the one buried in my garage), 2 mid 50s Plmouth 15” rims and two 50s Ford 15 “ rims all 4.5 in pattern. Only the one artillery wheel was good - the rest were all bent. I did get confirmation that the one eSlay rim I bought has been shipped. He is from the Midwest and was dealing with some flooding. Totally understandable.

Tough to find a place that straightens steel wheels but I did send one bad artillery wheel to the same guy who straightened the first time and he is supposed to make good on that one and the one I unearthed in my garage. We shall see.....

So it’ really just getting my front rims sorted out and that’s it. There are so many of you who were really a great support throughout the project as you followed along and I thank you. A big thank you to jacksandeuces - besides being a good friend, his help and suggestions were spot on throughout - Havlir House of Fab, another great friend, was also instrumental in keeping this project moving forward and a big thank you goes out to him, johnrodz, another great friend, was another big help with his advice, direction, and some on several issues during the build - no matter how busy he was, he was always ready to help, Jimmy’s Engine Service did a super job with my motor - he went beyond what most would have done in bringing it back to life - thank you, my neighbor Dennis who was always willing to give a helping hand - thank you, my fellow HEAPS members were always there - thank you, and my buddy JohnnyC. Although 500+ miles away, we talked often about the project and his projects, discussing details that anyone else would throw their hands up and say get on with it. Whether I had how to questions, design elements, or how the hell could I move on from here and so on, he was always there. Thanks bud - I really appreciate it. I am a very lucky man in that my wife puts up with me and my passion - she is my better half.

I know there are other folks that who were there for me - if I have slighted you, I apologize....

Like my fellow HEAPS member Druss does with the Miss Vicky thread, I will post changes here. I hope to see/meet many of you at Jalopyrama and anywhere else our paths may cross down the road. An old saying that I have not heard much lately - let’s take it to the streets .....

 

Just some shots of the car as it stands now. Finally came up with a set of rims and tires that would work until I can get another straight Plymouth artillery wheel mounted ....




The front wheels are off my wife’s 40 Ford pickup.

I guess I have put close to 500 miles on her now - mostly short runs, a lot of starting and stopping. So far, just a broken front shock mount. Need a couple long runs of 2-3 hours at speed but so far, so good. Still trying to get used to the clutch setup and the power though - it’s sooooo much different than the flathead setup. I keep thinking it needs more gas when it needs a lot less in first - after so many years of my old flattie powered 40 coupe and roadster, I am having a lot of jack rabbit starts right now! lol!

 

Lookin' great! Sure glad you didn't chop it.

 

Thank you!

 

Looks good! Time to enjoy it now.

 

You bet!

 

Whoooo! Looks great. I know you’re pleased! See you at the All Deuce Run in June.

 

Thanks, Tom! You will see me there Tom .....

 

Took a run down the interstate today averaging about 75 for a time - 75 at 1700 rpm, 60 is 1300. She still had plenty of torque. I also dropped by jacksandeuces and we had a A”car collage”

 

The last piece of the puzzle is on its way ... my new shift knob .....

 

I have something else being done but I will wait until Jalopyrama to reveal it ......

 

Can't wait to see your car in person, Tom. Only two more weeks! The pix are awesome. So, I'm sure the real deal will be even more awesome.

 

I like that oval tach. Where did you get the rest of your gauges?

 

The tach looks oval in the one pic but it is round. The rest of the gauges are 35 Buick which I found here. I also found another set from a Chevy of around the same year that I sold here. I am thinking they were made by a 3rd party and used by some auto makers of the time. They are 6-volt but I sent them out to be converted to 12 volt and had the speedo checked out. The gas gauge (which died btw - I will send it back out this winter) is a 0-30 ohm unit of which Classic Instruments has a 12 volt sending unit that can be right or left to fit the 32 gas tank. Temp gauge is mechanical as is the oil pressure so they need no conversion but so did get a new lead for the temp gauge. Like I and many have done with older Ford gauges, a 12 to 6 volt reducer I am sure would work and the expense of a conversion not required.

 

Thank you - looking forward to it!