how do I go about fixing this mess? I have a hole on each corner of this car where it was channeled. There is a panel in the middle of the car that goes from the floor pan to the bottom of the body but they left caps on each corner.
I think you just got good advice; it might be easier to raise back up to original position, trim back floor pan, and the weld in a new horizontal strip from floor pan to body. If you then wanted to drop it you could make a straight cut on the new strip and trim the bottom of the body straight. Then a cut could be made so the vertical channeling plate was close to vertical.
have the metal shop bend you some 16 ga. ZEE bends... 2" along the bottom, x the depth your channel is tall, x 3" across the top... cut the horizontals where your frame calls for it... reweld... set the bottom of the body on the 2" flange... set the 3" flange onto the frame's top...
I have a bunch in my other thread 34 ford 5 window Neat story it was my dad's car that he sold in 1956. I plan on keeping it channeled but want it to be better done He was 18 when he did thid
Oh, so it's a family horrid job... LOLOL. Glad you're keeping it channeled, the world needs more channeled rods!
It's an honest Hotrod...fix it up @GasGas300 but keep it on the garage built theme...its part of its soul...Sloppy's straightforward fix fits the bill nicely...it must have been a wild ride back in the day... I can just imagine your Dad's smile...
Look where the fuel pump is located, need to find a better place to put it. Fuel lines don't belong inside a car. Being that it was built by your father there is several to redu it already been mentioned. It's nice to have a car built by your dad when he was a teenager. That's how a lot of them were build.
Gas is that a tar coating?...perhaps some thinners may soften it up for removing it to lessen welding problems.
OK! A car with family history, it doesn't get better than that, best wishes with the upgraded channel. Bob
Hey All here's the link to @GasGas300's thread... https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/34-five-window.1121604/
Try a heat gun and putty knife to get the undercoat off. I have dealt with for years in the body shop. Solvent makes a mess and you have clean it up and dispose of the rags that you use.
I thought it was an image of the ocean. ALL of that stuff has to come off to expose the sheet metal underneath........take pics..........LOL....before you can repair the holes......
Hard to advise you what to save and what to remove from the above photos but here is my Roadster and how I did it. Maybe you can find something that will help ya out. It's down 6" and I folded the new inner sub rails all in one piece. It started out Channeled when I got it but was so bad it makes what you have look Grate. You don't need to use Steel plate, angle iron or channel iron. Gauge material is just fine, after all it's just a Body and sheetmetal to start with.
This is just what I was planning on doing. Going to be a bit of learning for me but I will get it done
Thanks all for your advice. This is such a period correct car and it's how it was done back in the days before plasma cutters and MIG welders. That's exactly how it's going to stay. Only safer. Looks like I need to go buy some metal shears and brake and learn how to use them. More than anything I just need someone to tell me it's going to be okay.....
Your doing an awesome job and I really like your conviction to respect of building with a former period in mind...such a cool Hotrod and story...I look forward to every update... Gas is there any chance you could do a better scan of the b&w pic of your Dad in the Hotrod from the other thread and post it here just to help the vintage ambience a bit more...
I'll have to read your other thread, but hope you keep all the original build details. I restored a Lyndwood rail that was built in 1959, stick welded at the factory. I kept every bit of weld spatter, just didn't have the right to remove it. It held a National Record with the spatter, why erase history. Good luck with the rebuild. Bob
That fuel pump is an "Autopulse 500" if you dont reuse it, I'd give it a good home. Sent from my SM-G965U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The Jalopy Journal
