If I'm not mistaken hotrods have been subject to headlight height regulations at times meaning they had to be a certain distance from the the road. But this would have had a direct effect on placement of the headlamps. I know fenders have been an issue off and on with some states also. I know twenty five years ago Iowa had bumper and headlamp hieght laws for pickups. The DOT had a minamum and maximum hieght for each model, where they went who knows.
I like the headlight placement. Looks legit. Small headlights are proper too. Stock large headlights look out of place on a hotrod and placed low. Here is my headlight height. I'm very happy with it. My front shocks have been replace with shorter versions too.
I doubt the pics I have seen involve these laws as they were late 40's perhaps early 50's. I'm just saying many times we lump Traditional Period correct (65 and prior) things into modern new movements...
I have been following this build since it started on Youtube. Matt might change his mind before this is over. Whatever he does, it is his build. Sent from my SM-G955U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The last posts you are commenting on are not in any way suggesting he change anything nor were they directed negatively at his choices.
Man that thing is bitchin'! I really would love to build a 33-34 one of these days. I agree, the lights look cool on yours! I actually enjoy these conversations, thinking outside the box and trying to do little things to make your car different (in a good way) is what always drew me into hot rods and customs. I won't take any offense to opinions, but I do listen to stuff and it sometimes makes me look at it harder and try and see what they see. We got the makeshift paint/body work booth put up. I want to try and keep the overspray and body filler dust contained as we start. Typical of me I'm doing last minute changes and additions. I whipped up a quick/dirty floor and tunnel under the seat frame last night where I can hide the battery, fusebox, etc. I will then make little riser boxes to cover that stuff and the seat padding will sit on top of the risers. A buddy of mine works at 3 dog and lets me do quick visits to check cars for ideas and we found that the Frank Mack T had a similar setup where he had a riser box that was padded under the seat cushion and it got my brain going. I'm going to make little filler panels where I just quickly cut around the body mount risers. I needed to make the openings larger so I could slide the panels in and out during mock up.
Matt, Those two photos absolutely scream Hotrod builder. Just look at that eclectic pile of construction instruments... you've gone full-mad scientist! This is what I enjoy the most about this build and watching your videos. It's not hermetically sealed, Surgeon General approved, paint-by-the-numbers, made for TV phooey. This is real deal stuff. Thanks for taking us along.
Really great watching this,and the extra effort you put into documenting the build process is appreciated,I look at your car and for the most proportions are good,considering the frame rails used.I,m wondering whilst the turtle deck is offthe car,perhaps try it lowered a couple of inches ,seems a bees dick high compared to the cars you are being influenced by.It may not be noticeable when the car gets painted or maybe the chassis kickup dictates the height?I have a T to build so i,m really over annalising them at the moment,but appreciate this thread Johnny,If it is your vision of what you want?press on? and disregard..
The rise in the frame in the rear constitutes the turtle deck height. I also didn't want the tire to be way above the top of the turtle deck. While I am using those cars as a guide for keeping it look "correct" for the period I am not making a carbon copy by any means. Turtle deck height and arrangement was all over the place if you start looking at old show cars and racers. I appreciate the input and thanks for following along. We were busting ass on body work this weekend. Got most of the body work done and we're about ready for primer after a little more block sanding. We sprayed raptor textured coating underneath the car and on the inside with the Eastwood Pro HVLP paint gun with a 2.0 tip and it came out pretty nice. Even just seeing the underside and inside one color is exciting haha. We've decided to knock this both down after primer is sprayed and build a new one for just the paint and clear. As others have mentioned this will give us less of a chance of crap getting in the paint and we can clean the hell out of the area.
Thanks, my thoughts were the kick up, great little car, That body has been a mountain of work for a small car, coming along now, with all you’ve done .Johnny
Agreed, some new plastic will be well worth it to save time fixing goobies in the paint. I LOVE this build by the way.
Busy Busy. In primer transporting to my buddy's home-shop paint booth. Won't be long now until we're in paint.. Gonna jump on the frame after I get back from the Charlotte swap.
Exciting! I’ve been following on Instagram and you tube as well. Really enjoy the content you create.
For anyone that doesn't watch the videos. Some paint booth photos below. I have the body all under wraps until the engine and chassis are ready to go together. I also shortened the torque tube and driveshaft something like 33"! Hope to have the chassis and bolt-on parts all painted here soon.
Looks great. Watch you goofballs every chance I get. Helps the time pass at work Sent from my SM-G955U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Blew the frame apart this weekend and tacked in the front boxing plates. Just need to finish weld everything and start stripping all to bare metal. Hoping to have the frame painted by the end of this weekend. Engine should be back in May and then we can start assembling!
I've been busy trying to get all of the bits and pieces cleaned, sealed up, and painted lately. Tedious work but we're getting there! Spent last week blasting, cleaning, sanding, and polishing the perimeter, tips of the fins, and lettering on these old Edelbrock block letter heads. I shot them with a coat of Eastwood 2k High Temp Primer and 2k Gloss High Temp Engine Paint. The masking process was a pain in the ass! I need to just use a tiny block sander to knock the paint off of the faces of the polished letters and the heads are done. Next is cleaning and painting the intake. I think I'll paint the intake and just polish the lettering on the top since the carbs are old chrome. Trying to find a balance without going off the deep end into high end show car!