It seems to be a common problem on hamb that pictures dont work. They work perfect on the swedish forum where i have a thread. http://ssra.org/ssra_forum/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=18172
The HAMB had an issue a short time back and all my pics I had posted were then red crosses but are all back but a couple. JW
Well, whats happen on my build? Last update was in late april. I am afraid its no progress since then. The summer was on its way and it was time to get my summercars running. And this year did not get as smooth as it usally is. My green 53 lost its oilpreasure and i need to get the motor out. My 59 stw had hysterical brakes that i cant get quiet right yet. So i needed another car just as much like a hole in my head. But i have never had a convertible and a friend of my had one he wanted to sell. We struck a deal and i am now a owner of a Chrysler 300-63 with the opional 360hp 413. It have not been used for a couple of years so it needed tlc. This plus alot of cruising take up the most of my summer. With all the toys i started to run out of space so late in september i started to build a shed. It tok longer then i expected so i was ready just in time for christmas. But now is it hotrod time again and hopefully can make things happen again.
The Coupe will still be there waiting, but at least you have a bunch of way cool rides and a cool shed build to keep you busy and away from the T. You are excused. JW
First thing to do was rebuild the break setup. It was flimsy and ugly and built to meet swedish regulation. Thats mean i have to hide it. And to mount it on floor would mean that i had to rework my crossmember. (bad planning) So hanging pedals with mastercylinder under the gas lid. The reason not to use a angeled break setup was i wanted the pivotcenter as high as possible. But i could use the old one to measure from and use same steel as i used to the frame to do the new one. The new bracket is not a beatycontender either but allready stouter than the old one before i put in some reinforsment. A lathe would be nice to have. I needed a axle to pivot the force frome pedal to mc. So some long nuts and a 1 inch pipe is my startingpoint. Drilled out the nuts in small steps to keep the holes straight. Did some holes in the pipe to plugweld the nuts to even out the force from the ends. I could now cut out the pivotarms and mock them up.
Some updates have ben done but nothing thats look good on pics. Have replaced my temporary brackets for my steeringshaft to a permanent one. I allso removed some clutter thats belonged to tilt and telescope function i dont use. I allso started to figure out my seating position. One of the thing i wanted to remove was the adjusters for the back. That way i can mount the bench 7/8 inch lower in the coupe. Its no real meaning to have this function couse there aint any place left for adjustments of the seat anyway. Started with some 3/8 plates to make the new brackets for the backrest. Tacked them together and now i can start over to adjust the seat in place in the car.
AndersF, for some reason I can't view your pictures with your last 2 posts, and I hate that because I love the work you are doing on your coupe!
It seems to happend time to time and i dont know why. It happends for me to sometimes and then they there next time i looking. On the top of this page is a link to my swedish forum where pictures seems to work better. You could read here and looks on the pics there if you want.
AndersF, I have been watching your build from the start and your work is great! I see your at the point of mounting your seats and would like to share a few thoughts. As you probably already know these coupe's get small in a hurry! When I did my coupe build I mounted my seats [buckets] flat to the floor with no adjustments. If you can build a swivel mount of some kind so the seat or backrest tilts forward you can gain a lot of storage room behind the seats due to the layback angle of the backrest. Redoing my passenger this winter. Good luck
If i got any space left i will hinge the bench to flip it forward. But i problaby going to have a slanted rearwall following the backrest to gain maximum space for gastank and battery in trunk. Going to mount my seat where i want it and then route the exhaust then i know how much space i have left and how to use it.
Now it was time to do something with this stack of pipes. A very useful tool is a drillpress with a holesaw. Drill trough half the pipe you got a nice hole for a cutout. Drill trough hole pipe you got 2pc of pipes to weld in there. And to get rather straight edge when i cut my pipes i do this. Take a pice of paper and wrap around the pipe and mark. The pipes have big decals the store mark them with thats allmost impossible to remove. So i use propan and burn them away. And this is how my front exhaust ended up. Then i just walk my way back. The lakepipes come from a chevy 53 and where to long. I needed to shorten them for my build.
Suddenly it happens. My first update and progress for a long time. I need to kick my ass and build this rod now. I got some interference problems with the steeringbox. It needed to go down in the frame a bit to solve the problems. Here is where i started. This is how i did it. Open up the frame and welded a pipe on the bracket. Then prefitted and tack them together. Then i could weld the pices together. Then i could weld it in place on my frame.
Looking good Anders. Your build has a lot of things similar to mine - I fill my master cylinder through my cowl vent too. Also, with the master cylinder under the cowl, I have my adjustable proportioning valve located under the dash so it is adjustable while driving.
Next thing to do was to mount the shock absorbers. First i mount a bit of woodblock on the frame to have something to mesure to. Then i moved the axle around to see how much suspensiontrawel i have. It seems to be about 3 inch down and 2 inch up so i set my absorbers at 3 out from the bottom in rideheight. Took a anglething and marked the frame on both sides on the wood. Then adjusted the shockabsorber where i wanted it. Took a drillbit as large i could get in the hole and rolled it with my fingers to get a mark. Then i mesured where it was compared to my framemarkings and could replicate that on the other side. When that was done i drilled a 11/16 holes on the markings and checked that it was still good. Now i removed the shocks and moved the wood rearwards so the back was where the back of the mountholes on the shocks should be. Now i could start to modify my F1 chockbrakets. I decided to weld them inplace instead to bolt them. So i cut them off and grind a angle so it fit to the frame. Then i put them in the holes and welded. And all angles matched after i was done.
Have spent alot of time to planning and measureing things. Need to have a seat, gastank and battery. Nothing to show on pictures but have to be done. Other than that i mounted the Panhardbar at the front. With that done i more and less done with the frame. Just need to reasembley the frame to finnish all the welds.
At last i am done with the welding on the frame. Had to rotate the frame around to get in proper position for welding. A picture when i was flipping the frame back to ground. I guess its going to be in this angel when i slip off the clutch when its on the road. Took a string when the engine and body was removed to do some measuring. The axels are still straight and Ackerman cloose enough.
I have done my first roadtrip with the hotrod. Had to take it to the first tech inspection. That means it now offically is a car. Becouse its a constructed velichle i needed to give it a name. So this is how a 2019 Pretender looks There was some things he wanted me to change but overall he was pleased. So back to the garage and keep on working. And this is how i do when i need a lathe and dont have one.
The Jalopy Journal
