I'm building a 39 coupe gasser. It ran at alton drag way late 60 ish. It ran a 364 nail head. Straight axle. At one time was up graded to 50 ish brakes ,drum. Steering box was moved, cut column,cut drag link. I want to b safe. Modern steering,it was side steer. Any sug. Vega,corvare ,or a speedway axel kit,with all new parts.
All new parts is a great idea. Look at SEGA rules to flesh out your gasser build. You should always put safety as number !. Plenty of guys here to get tips on their gasser builds.
I'm new at this Fab stuff I've rebuilt stuff all my life. Just getting some input Original Springs or shot need shackles rebuilt drum brakes needs new gearbox steering box and checking the prices it's starting to build up. Was trying to keep original Style front end with spring blocks, but looking at Speedway straight axle kit is looking better. Front Springs alone are in the $600 range, I think I can get new tie rod ends and drag links and stuff from Speedway to tie into the old straight axle, then I would still either use drum brakes or have to upgrade to disc. Just kind of putting the feel out for what others have done
A 39 what, Ford, Chevy, other? It’ll make a difference on suggestions. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
What's wrong with the old components? Sure you can install some new tie rod ends and shackle bushings, but are the hard parts broken? Maybe a new tie rod tube to replace the spliced old part. But just because something was cut and welded, does that mean it's now junk? I might feel safer driving a car with safely modified old parts than a car with new Chinese junk. Check the welds with magnaflux if you feel they are suspect.
Okay this is for a 39 Chevy coupe has the original ball-and-socket rod ends and stuff I was wondering if anyone has used at these steering arms that connect to the spindles from Summit. Which would be better the tie rod ends or the hemispherical ends. This steering that was in the car was some sort of early Cadillac tilt but it was mounted at an angle because they didn't use universal joints it was connected solid with a piece of water pipe coupling and some set screws. When you tilted the column sideways it almost brought it back to straight steering, also the turns was two and a half to the right one and a half to the left lock the lock seems kind of bogus. From the research I have done looking through magazines it looks like I maybe could use a Vega box and converted to cross steer. I also saw and Speedway they sell a Corvair reverse steer I believe that is for a side steer system, I have access to a 59 Ford steering box. On the Springs there very Rusty I guess they could be cleaned up and use that spring liner I've seen I've never done that. So I guess the main thing is the steering arms on the spindles rebuild the springs and what style box steering box to go with just trying to get ideas so I know which direction to go I would like to use as much original as I can thank you all for your replies
Another thing of like I said the cost of the Springs I checked for to fit that car was over $600 that's almost the cost of the total Chinese junk Speedway set seems kind of convenient. The car also has a 57 Pontiac rear I'm planning on using that old drag racers rear end, but it has the old original torque tube springset so I'll have to buy new Springs for the rear cause I've read that they will cause axle warp without the torque tube installed. Those rear springs are over $600 for a pair of them. I know building cars is expensive and I'm cheap so that's why I'm asking questions is what people have used
OK, thanks for the additional info. We always need the whole story. Toss the whole steering column, it sounds like a mess. I think a simple column with no electrics like Speedway and others sell would be best for a race-inspired car. And then a single joint to the box. If using a Vega get a good one, not the cheapos as they have a bad rep. I'd also go with a new style tie rod end, not the old socket type. Lots of 30's Chevys received a 50's pickup front axle, and maybe they had parts that could be converted. I'm not sure about that stuff as I'm a Ford guy.
Most racers with parallel rear springs used either a slapper bar or some type of ladder bar with a slip mount for the spring. I bet the original springs could be used if they are still good shape. But there are lots of other newer springs that don't cost $600.
This car will be driven to local car cruises maybe at a Nostalgia drag race hopefully yes it did have some homemade slapper bars on it but one of them is kind of bent so that's that's no problem the slapper bars just worried about front steering I saw I saw that the arms that bolt to the spindles on in Speedway look like they take the heim joint are those good enough heavy enough for for Street driving
Also those prices were for Direct Fit Springs. Haven't haven't had a lot of experience or any welding spring shackles to the frames and that kind of stuff so I was pricing Direct Fit. Also I know you have to get springs for the correct weight of the car I've seen lots of Cheaper Springs but I don't know
If you can't weld you either need to buy exact replacement stuff, or learn to weld. How are you going to mount the new steering box and column if you can't weld?
...here's how I updated my 37 Chev coupe,...orig. srtaight axle, new kingpins, 54 Chevy pass. car front brakes from backing plate out, Speedway steering arms, and tie rod/steering rods, 65 Chevelle manual steering box (turn the pitman arm 180 degrees) homemade steering box mount bolted to framerail, used a 65 Chevelle steering column and one double u-joint from Borgeson,..steer'd real easy, drove straight...you mite consider this option,..for rear leafs, if you want to update, use Chassis Engineering rear leaf kit, they are bolt-on and wider leafs than orig. (Heidts bought out Chas. Eng.)
Went out and measured the spindles I found a tip in Speedway magazine and they measured out for a truck spindle and kingpins so that's been changed out 2 50 style truck axle. It's setting on Original Springs I guess cuz they're not the beefy truck leaf stack. Thank you Rusty one that's exactly what I was looking for pictures are great I will be doing that same thing awesome help here. By the way I live in Illinois also. By the way to the other reply I can weld. Just meant I had no experience figuring out Springs dimensions and weights and that sort of stuff. Thanks again Rusty 1 and thanks to all the replies
Also I did not know you could turn the pitman arm 180 degrees I thought they were splined for One Direction only.
Personally I like that Chevelle box better than a Vega, where space permits. Also, some of "Speedway's" hardware for a straight tube axle is "VERY" flimsy in my opinion. I've seen better stuff used on lawn mowers. I'd keep your axle, and look for the parts required to freshen it up. Your springs probably won't fail overnight, so they can come later if need be. Good Luck!
I grew up in Alton about all mile or so from Alton Dragway used to hear the cars run they talked about the Little Red Wagon you can hear it on the loud speakers from the house I turn 16 and 71 got to go to the drag strip a few times before it closed fond memories. Advertisements on the radio used to say Sunday Sunday Sunday Big Daddy Don Garlits Don Prudhomme. Our local Legend racer an engine builder was art Badgley. He passed away a few years ago. Again thanks for all the replies and advise, I have a direction now and I'm going that way
Yes,..made those blocks from heavy tubing, cap'd ends...here's how my Chevy look'd ...any more?'s, just ask...
Great stance on that car not nosebleed High how many inch blocks did you use. I see your wheels are centered in the rear fender Wells did you use one of those rear spring kits in Center the wheels up yourself. I read a little bit on that rear spring kit and it said something about checking for the wheel well Center
...if I remember correctly, I actually moved the rear axleforward about 3/4" from stock, that way I only had to trim the front edge of the rear fender for tire clearance,...I wanted the tire to sit outside the rear fender about a inch or so...
I think it was Chris Karamesenis “The Greek” that went well over 200 there, but there was a big controversy about that pass. I remember one time my dad had to take a buddy’ s kids home from Alton when the son of his buddy was hit by a car in the pits and hurt pretty bad. After that we were made well aware of how to safely walk around the pits. But didn’t get to go to the track for a while after that.. This is a pic of my Dad’s car from way back then.
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