Technical Rebel Wire Harness diagrams and wiring info

Yes that looks to be exactly as I wired it.

 

Question: I have a 40 Ford column drop/ignition switch. 3 pole, marked Batt/coil/gage and a 2 wire start/momentary switch to a GM (Buick starter/solenoid set up).
I want to be sure I'm wiring correctly. Hoping someone can set me right? I have the RED/PWR to the terminal marked BATT. I have orange IGN wire and pink Coil wire going to the terminal marked COIL .I'm not sure where to route the BROWN/ACC wire, would it go to terminal marked gage?
2nd question: from the IGN terminal, would I then make a jumper to one side of the start switch and from the other side of that switch run the purple wire to the starter solenoid?

 

You've got it right so far on the Batt and Coil terminals, just put the Brown ACC wire on the Gauge terminal. For the starter button to the GM solenoid, run the purple start wire also from the IGN terminal of the switch into one side of the push button, come out of the other side of the button with the purple wire and continue on to the solenoid S post.

So the red wire powers the ignition switch...when you turn on the key the IGN post powers the coil, fuse panel, and one side of the push button...and the button sends power on to the solenoid. The brown ACC wire powers another row of fuses when the key is on

 

Thanks for the quick response!

 

..Hi again... I need some help again... I have 6 wires going to the ign. switch, I am sure where 4 of the wires connect, ...and then there are 2 I am not sure where these attach 1 is red which I call #2 and the other is a brown wire....all 6 wires are marked...question is where do the red #2 and the brown connect?....see attach drawing. thanks miller

 

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I hope I'm right here. My memory tells me that the original Ford start button switch is a 1 terminal switch that completes the ground circuit for the original Ford solenoid. If you want to use the original Ford start button for a GM or more modern Ford solenoid you have to wire in a relay and use the start button to complete the ground to energize the relay.

 

^^^^ This--done a few this way doing one now

 

Please note Silva in post 422 is using a two wire GM button.

Phil

 

You are correct pprather. I didn't notice that the two terminal switch was used when I first read Silva's first post. Just for general knowledge I think it is good to ensure that there is a way to make either switch work and how to tell one switch from another.

 

You are correct sir! I happen to have a diagram for that:

 

If the labeling is right, the Brown IGN SW IGN would go on the same IGN terminal as the coil. The 2nd Red IGN SW PWR may not be needed if it's just a 2nd battery feed for the switch. Some GM column switches take 2 battery feeds, but looks like your switch just takes 1. Thoughts anyone?

 

....thanks for the reply and info...miller

 

...Anyone have and thoughts as to what to do with the red and brown wires? thanks miller

 

This is my suggestion. Put the brown wire in the same terminal as the coil wire as Rebel43 suggested. The second red wire could be put in the same terminal as the first red wire.

Phil

 

..Thanks for the reply....I was thinking I could do as you suggest, but I did not want to say anything that would confuse the question,.. I will do as you suggest thanks to all for the help....Miller

 

So, I’m installing my 9&3 kit and I’m wondering if there’s any advantage or disadvantages to cutting the 21 wires that end up going through the grommet on the firewall and mounting terminal blocks to the panel under my dash inside the firewall on the driver’s side.

My thoughts on it was that if I did that I’d be able to disconnect all those wires to remove the body if I ever decided that I had to.

Maybe it’s not worth the effort?
I’ve tried to plan for accessibility for most everything that would make it so the body wouldn’t have to be removed.

Any thoughts?

 

That is something I think about all the time, how many wires are there, and how large a hole do they require. I'm sure someone will chime in and tell you the wire size is way under sized so what is the proper size wire and hole? Bob

 

I've had it both ways. My first rod, built in the 70's was home wired. It had a terminal block at the firewall. It really helped to simplify the front clip removal when I swapped engines
My current rod built in 06 with a good quality kit has no block at the firewall. When I was talking to my fabricator about a chassis swap, he said, " we'd just cut up the harness and rewire the car after assembly.
I'd seriously consider the block, but it does introduce the possibility of a breakdown at any one of the many connectors. For sure use ring connectors that require screw removal at the block to reduce the chance of a connector slipping off the block.
I'm sure this post will get some comments, and hopefully some helpful suggestions.

Phil

 

I’m not sure if all of the extra connections would be worth it on the off chance I’ll need them.
I could cut the harness and then splice the wires if needed not ideal but possible.

Thanks for the input.
I’m looking forward to the discussion.

 

I have thought about my wires coming from the body and thought of these.
https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/10752/10002/-1

 

I have a small number of those Fred but I’m not fond of how they go together.
I think they’re probably good quality items though.

 

I'm using these, I've been using Deutsch connectors since the 90's. I was working on Harley's then and they started using them on the bikes and I saw how versatile they are. They have flanged connectors for the firewall and they are easy to work with and waterproof.

https://deutschconnectorstore.com/p...es-connectors/?filter_gender=recptacle-flange

 

Honestly Larry, I can’t see it being worth the trouble, I can’t imagine having to pull the body anytime soon. As you said, on the off chance that may happen it would be no more difficult to deal with it then


Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.

 

I wouldn't use a terminal strip I would use some sort of a connector. The Deutsch ones suggested above are usually very highly rated.

 

Most all the wiring ahead of the firewall can be easily disconnected, except maybe the headlights. Easy to unhook the wires, demount the harness, and tie it back in the unlikely case you remove the body. Why over complicate things. Besides; it is just another place for electrical gremlins to get into your life.

 

True enough, I don’t need any gremlins

 

Hi Rebel43.Thanks for taking the time and effort for starting this thread.Full of great info and help.And thanks to all who have posted with their problems and solutions.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

 

Another question for you guys, what’s your preference regarding wiring covering.
What I’m thinking about specifically is the split loom stuff that looks like cloth.

It looks clean I think anyway.
Any thoughts?
https://www.painlessperformance.com/wc/70970
That’s one source, there are others.

 

I no longer like the GM style corrugated split loom. I'm going to try the plastic 'cloth like' split loom to see is it looks more traditional while being practical to maintain in a rod that is driven a lot.

Phil

 

I usually use the old asphalt fabric loom in areas where protection is needed. I saw some of the new split fabric looking loom; but it seemed to have an odd kinda shiny look to it. Maybe different brands have a better appearance.
Friend used old fashioned fabric braid wires with a short piece of shrink tube every 6" or so and at wire exits. He kept all the wires straight; really had a nice look to it. Don't see why it wouldn't work with plastic insulated wires.