Technical Gloss Black Single Stage Urethane

reality check:
customers would come to me and say I want the best paint out there, at the time I would spray Glasurite. DAMN GOOD PAINT! then the car would be used 12 weekends a summer, if that, never see salt, road spray rain , hail etc and stay in a garage the rest of the year. sears weather beater would hold up to that kind of "abuse". I used acrylic enamel on my '39 gmc beater, never garaged, worked and abused when I painted it in 1991. paint is faded but I can see a little shine left. acrylic enamel is good, urethane is better. lacquer worked for years.................how will it get used?

 

That's the point I'm trying to make. You could almost do that. If your willing to do the $8000 in labor for prep yourself.

 

Centari on my 40 is 25 years old, still looks very good.

 

This is Centari with 793 hardener done in 1998 in my garage no cut and buff just nibbed and polished that's how it looks today .i love single stage paints for solid colors

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Speaking of sealer...my truck came to me with most of the bodywork done and in primer. No idea what primer was used. I've done a lot more work, replaced the bed and used Speediprime at first but the last couple coats have been 2k urethane primer over the whole thing. No reactions but I suppose I do need to seal it if I use urethane?

 

For metallic colors, I do like a clearcoat also when graphics are involved to bury them this is Matrix brand color and high solids clear

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Not if you used a 2 k primer it will act as a sealer too but depending on color sometimes using the correct color base under the paint will give you better color and take less paint to hide sealers are great here plus they cover any sand throughs

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yep, matching the SS code of the paint to the sealer will compensate for "cheaper paints" lack of pigment.

 

A white base under red, orange, yellow and white will make colors more vivid and take less coats to cover black under darker colors and metallics make the color richer and also cover better like tb33anda3rd said

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I cant paint good enough to color sand my metallic jobs. I'd have to clear it and buff that.

 

If you use a very slow drying thinner, it will flow out well enough that you can skip the sandpaper, and just polish it if needed. This will also keep it from trapping humidity and blushing. We used PPG DT 105 year round, yes, even in winter.

 

Neither can the rest of us because of the orientation on the aluminum flake when you colorsand it smooth and flat you get a scale effect and you can see rings where you sand and polish a portion of the upper coat off and go into the next coat .now metallics can be nibbed and polished where you just sand off dust specks and polish though

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im here because i love building cars...I DO... cool cars are cool cars and if you pay someone to build you one or restore you one it doesnt make it less cool....but when you do it yourself its different. it feeds my soul...idk how to explain it better than that!

 

on another note....who out there knows? is there a special primer for lacquer? or is primer primer?

 

A 2k primer will work under lacquer acrylic lacquer was my choice back in the day but it had a lot of shrinkage 2 k is the way to go

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When painting single stage metallics, if you can put coats on wet-on-wet, it will go a long way toward eliminating the rings, or bullseyes, that show up when buffing. It is a learned thing, so be careful. Also cross coat in a more or less random pattern, not this way, and then that way. Try to keep the horizntal panels as wet as possible, and remember, those are also going to be the ones that catch the most dirt. Last, avoid the dreaded "Admiration Dust", in other words, stay the hell out of the booth unless you are spraying paint, and your buddies can stop and look tomorrow. I hate sanding and buffing anything, but it is much easier to sand and buff dry spots than runs, especially in single stage metallics.

 

Also, while I am on this roll, get enough paint to put plenty of paint on the vehicle! Never put yourself in a place where you have to over-reduce your last two cups because you are running out of material. And do bend down there and get some paint on those rocker panels. It will probably take 1 1/2 times the paint that you want to buy, but if you end up with too much, you will have enough to maybe paint a hood or fender down the road, and it will stand a much better chance of matching. Do not be scared, everybody screwed up at least once.

 

Good, Fast, and Cheap...
Pick any two, you'll never get all three.
Want it shiney and durable?
Shoot it in Imron and be done with it

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Yep and any one that says they haven't screwed up is a liar

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Well i have used imron for a few years, hard as a rock, can be done in flat to shiny and everything in between. Not badly priced but it needs a accelerator added as well as hardener and reducer

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I have sprayed a few different single stage blacks, I've used Tamco blacks on different projects and think it's a good value priced product. The issue of wanting a black that does not have a brown hue is difficult to overcome with pre mixed products. I have used Omni or Limco single stage black that I had mixed using a BMW paint code because it had a hint of a a very dark blue hue.

I think another thing to consider when choosing a paint is what kind of spray gun will be used, the higher solid paints in my opinion are easier to spray with a gun that atomizes the paint well without excess air pressure, having to use to high air pressure to atomize paint lessens the amount of paint transferred to the car.

 

Yes, want a blue black, not a brown black. I wonder if this BMW Schwartz Black qualifies:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-Schwar...ingle-stage-urethane-auto-paint-/391404867036

 

If you talk to the jobber your going to use ask what mixing colors are in the color, the black GM used for a long time had yellow and I think red in it giving it a little bit of a brown hue just to give you a idea.

 

When I paint a car in single stage urethane we always use nason ful thane . We only use it only in solid colours on metallics we always use chromax waterborne base clear . If we are doing fleet work in nason on ordinary driver type stuff we just paint it straight up . But if you want a nicer finish it works great if you put one nice coat on let it dry overnight - or longer until properly dry . Leave it all masked up - wet sand with 800 - 1000 grit don’t burn through but sand out texture . Put 2 or 3 more coats down . You won’t believe how nice it lays out and dust and dirt are almost none existent . Remember most dust comes from you or the car so wear a paint suit and thoroughly clean the car . This works with any single stage paint.

 

I use Limco or Matrix on all my projects with great results

 

It seems like every time I paint something I go "damn, I never saw that happen before".

 

Nason Ful-Thane 400-01 is a really nice deep black single stage paint. You can buy a full kit with a gallon of paint, activator and reducer for well under $200 on eBay as well.

 

ya gonna get a million answers on brand
the truth is preparation and application is more important than brand
get your supplier to print off a tech sheet for more detailed info than whats on the can
get the appropriate reducer for the temp when ya spray it
use the appropriate spray tip size for the paint used
get a filter that attaches to the gun
air pressure needs to be set at the gun
the rest is how well ya prepped it and spray technique
Im a better buffer than sprayer

 

For black urethane I use Matrix MCU with hardner.

 

Doing body and paint in a place that is to cold is the biggest mistake . Putting filler on to cold ,bare metal panels to cold , primer to cold , masking to cold ,painting to cold - forget it . Proper body and paint must be done in a warm environment. I think the bare minimum temperature should be at least warm enough to comfortably wear a t-shirt... and pants .