Yeah, I was gonna say 1992 called and wants its steering wheel and plastic floor caddy cup holder back too. I am intrigued by the roof though.
I'll add that there are other ways to get a better fit: adjust seating height and/or seat thickness. i like 60's t bird seats in old trucks because the seat backs are very thin, allowing you to gain a few inches of leg room once you move the gas tank out of the cab. i was shocked to discover that when mocking up an 54 chevy truck that i felt was cramped, that (IIRC) it was about an inch LONGER in overall length than my 66 c-10. i have tbird seats in my c10, the 54 has stock seat and gas tank. i'll be changing the 54 arrangement.
Not the best picture but three inches in the cab 2 in the doors. Really nice proportion. Too bad I don't have a better pic.
Looks good. I wonder if the stretch would work better on a cameo bed. Stepside beds look really utilitarian behind a customized cab. Maybe take one inch out of the door and add it back behind the door. I don't have Pshop or I'd try it.
I'd like a 35 Ford crew cab. What is this photoshop that you guys speak of? Educate me about it please. Thanks, Tom
You can request a photoshop rendering of what you are interested in and they will show you what your vision will look like! They provide a great service to the HAMB! Check it out https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...p-thread-to-end-all-photoshop-threads.300531/
The extra length of the cab has to be made up somewhere. If you didn’t shorten the bed, which is probably the easiest place to make it up, where does it go? Stretch the frame? Shorten the hood and fenders? Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I've really paid attention to 48 to 53 Chev./GM pick ups with extended cabs. Of all the ones I've seen, the best have been 4"/5" added to the doors and chopped 2". If the seating area (minus the interior gas tank) is thought out and done well, they really get, well, ROOMY, on a 4/5 stretch. The other thing is really obvious, have a donor truck body with the build. Bill Rinaldi
I liked this effort down in FL and had hoped to buy it several years back, but missed out. Not the best pic's but all I have now...
I like the proportions of 30 s pickups.the price you pay is no too much legroom.my solution is to thin out the seat back,shorten the column a tad and move the throttle pedal to the centre a bit plus I modified a spoon throttle pedal
Cole Porter chopped the truck that I snagged the photo of years ago and drove it for years. Jesse James ended up with it and did a few mods and then sold it on Ebay. Thanks, I have all the pieces to do it and if you look close (not actually that close) you can see the seams where I cut the 4 copies of the print of the truck apart and did did the stretch and section. I've never found out how much Cole Porter actually chopped the truck but it comes out just right for what I need and with that chop I don't have to spend a couple hundred hours reworking the tops of the doors. I posted the photo to show the OP that Hey, take some side shots of your truck, print one or two out with several prints and cut them apart and fit them together to see how it might look. Needless to say I am not good at photo shop but can do cut and tape.
also made an adjustable bracket to help find the optimum mounting position without drilling holes all over the firewall.when the position is finalised it can be trimmed down to save weight of course.
You can have a lot of fun doing JUST that, especially if you add some tequila But you really need to do top and bottom if you're serious about trying to pull it off
Ok, I'm in the process of cutting up pictures and taping them together. I've come to the conclusion that I'm going to need to stretch the frame also to keep the proportions appealing. I do not want to shorten the bed. Not a problem, I have all the tools and some of the ability to do this, hopefully some of my friends who do have the ability will help out. The only thing I don't understand, is where exactly and how, are people stretching the cowl. Please, if anyone has pics of this, post them. Thanks- Karl
There's a whole bunch of taper in the cowl, aBIG bunch and curves and sections of cones in the cowl. So print this out 3 copies Imagine it's the Cowl of the truck Say 9 is the door jambs 7 is the firewall 4 is the grill 123 is imaginary out in front If you were to cut amd move 7 further away from nine Everything between needschamges
I understand the concept, just wanted to see if anyone has actually done this, and if so, pictures showing where they cut on the cowl. There are so many compound curves there, I'd like to be a little bit more educated before I start slicing and dicing. Thanks - Karl
If I were doing it, I think I would split the cab and widen the rear of it to fit the widened section. I dont think it would need to be widened much but some measurements would have to confirm that. For example, if you widened the doors and perhaps the area immediately behind the door jambs, the rear of the cab could be widened to accommodate that, then filled with a pie shaped strip on top and a rectangular strip on the rear. That keeps you out of the compound curve areas. Then, the chassis could be lengthened just behind the cab to accommodate the extra length. Just my 2 cents. I think that cowl work is going to be trickier than this.
That makes a lot of sense, that's the main problem I've been having a hard time wrapping my mind around. That would take care of the issue with the taper of the cab.
It took me a while to wrap my mind around it, too. That was the simplest approach I could come up with. Otherwise, you are going to be learning to do some serious English Wheel work! If you could get some overhead photo shots, you could do a cut and paste to get a better idea of how much wider you would end up.
[in my experience the greatest return for the work involved was thinning out the seat back.used 3/4 ply with 2 inch foam ,I fit in ok.5ft 11 normal proportions.when I redo the seats next time ill use 2mm alumimum bead rolled to add some extra strength and 2inch foam again plus some folds on the side I should gain another 5/8 legroom here.every 5/8 counts when space is at a premium.also keep the seat high as is comfortable.my 2 cents worth
I think that by the time you get to the back edge of the doors, the cab sides are almost perfectly parallel. Just cut the cab at that point and add some inches to both the door and cab. I've seen dozens of stretched pick-ups at shows so it can't be rocket surgery! One might want to climb up above the truck and take a shot from the top looking down, to see exactly where the wedge is in the cab.
My newest project is a 39-47 Dodge pickup. I'm 6'1" and 270 lbs. I lowered the mini van bucket seat brackets until I could get the top of the seat under the rear window (there is no in cab tank on this era Dodge). When the seat top is under the rear window, I have plenty of steering wheel clearance and plenty of leg room. It take a bit of foot shuffling to get my feet inside the cab, but once in, its a very comfortable sit. I have only driven the truck a couple miles with the seat like this, so long rides may prove to be different, but I feel a lot better about the seating then I did before I lowered the set to fit under the rear window. Gene
I'm stretching the doors on mine to get the 9-1/4 inches I need but widening the cab at the back makes a lot of sense rather than fighting with getting the roof lines all tweaked to get it right. I've got the donor piece on a cab that is bashed in the right rear corner and is donating parts to the build anyhow. On his 36 I'd still stretch the doors the needed amount and shorten the box that looks a tad long from the factory anyhow as I showed in my cut and tape rendition. I don't like the looks of them lengthened behind the doors with he added material there.
...I agree with this,..shortening the bed usually makes the cab look too big/bulky...if a guy can extend a cab he ought to be able to lengthen a frame.
I'm really liking this, @Mr48chev There's a bunch done on this thing I'd like to see more of this truck so where should I look.
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