TECH: Ultimate T-5 Article

Anything else?

 

I know input shafts are different, but not sure exactly how. Output shafts are also probably different. Someone more knowledgeable will likely chime in.

 

Shiftier position.

 

Bearing retainer on GM is 1.375, out put shaft(yoke) is 27 spline. Ford output shaft was 28 spline yoke. Mustang for sure.

 

Appreciate the help guys.

 

Hi... I have a T5 065 in my hotord.. I don't know how explain, but 1 and 3 gear is ''leaving position and goes to neutral if i don't hold the shifter.. What's my problem? I'm taking it out now because of clutch problem. and i also want the rest good...

 

1352-065 is a World-Class T5.

Your fluid should be DexMerc and nothing else.

That said, probably bad synchronizers.

 

probably the clutching teeth on the gear and sliding clutch are worn to the point of needing to be replaced.

 

I've got a situation that's stumped me. I have had a few of these T5s apart and back together enough to know my way around them, but no professional by any means. Started with a '93 Camaro T5, and wanted the shifter closer to firewall like most of us want. Swapped out the output shaft, and rear tail housing from elec speedo s10 WC. No problem, shifted through all gears easily. I recently found a mech speedo s10 housing and plastic gear to swap out. Drive gear, no sweat. Reinstall mech housing no sweat, BUT I can not shift into reverse now. All forward gears are easy to shift into. I swap the old housing back on and reverse works, driving me crazy. I even changed the metal block that the roll pin drives into thinking it might help, notta. Any T5 guru thoughts?

 

Damn. That's a head scratcher.

 

Hmm. Okej. Has engine oil today, Recommendation from builder.. So that can be the problem?

 

I’m not a guru by any means, but I would consider checking the boss in the tail housing where the 5th/reverse shift rail goes. If it’s got some gunk or something in there, it may be blocking the rail from moving as much as it needs to. Just a thought.

 

That's a very good point about the boss for the 5th/reverse shaft. I wanted to rule out the shifter block, and the paths that the shifter block rides in. Both cases look identical in machine work, no abuse. I will take a closer look at the boss for reverse shaft and measure the bore. This thing looks like a fresh casting its so clean. I believe the 5th/reverse shifter rail does start into that boss in order to get the case completely on. I had put a little assembly grease on the end of the shaft and I can tell it was disturbed once removing the rear housing. Housing goes on easy with a couple taps with the palm of my hand, no hammers. With the rear cover off, I can put a small punch in the shifter shaft hole where the roll pin goes and go through the gears, so I have ruled out any issues in the gearbox. I have an email in to 5speeds.com, where I bought the rebuild kit and counter gear stabilizer kit.

 

One other thought...does the 5th/Reverse shaft have a flat machined into it on the end that goes into the tail housing? If not, I'd grind one in to make sure you don't have any kind of sealing lock going on when it moves back and forth in that boss. Paul at 5speeds.com recommends that for the shift rails in the top cover and it does make for nice smooth shifting.

 

I will check that out tonight, thanks for the imput!

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Something is wrong.

1352-065 is a Mustang/Capri V8 T5 (I have pulled them).

What you have posted pictures is not.

 

some new pictures.



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I think the 1352-065 is a 1984 Mustang/Capri V8 T5. The 1352-126 is 1985 Mustang/Capri V8 T5-WC

 

So it looks like a 1987 (possibly 1988 model year) unit for starters...
Were there even World Class units then?

 

Gm f body camaro 88-92 were WC with that style of bell housing mount.

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S10's were NWC, with that bellhousing mount.

If the round cap that partially goes under the input bearing collar is plain, with no numbers or letters around the circumference, facing out, it is NWC.

 

Flat spot on one side already there

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Hmm. I would try to put the tail housing on, and not bolt it down all the way. See at what point it locks out reverse. In the process you may be able to feel what’s causing the issue.

 

Reverse works until the tail is mounted, even removed the funnel oiler in case it was hitting; no luck.

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Well, working on hot rods is kinda like raising kids. You can be pissed as hell, blood vessels about to burst in your eyeballs, and in a spit second drift into total euphoria. I figured out why I could not shift into 5th gear. A few measurements of the reverse gear in its outward most position, I started measuring how deep the case was in that area. The case depth is fine but there is a vain that must trickle oil down, don't even know how important it is but it has to go. Even tore apart another t5 core, and it did the same thing to me; because the vain in that casting also was too thick. After comparing the case that DID work, it's vain is there but quite a bit lower. Amazing how one little thing can fuck up a weekend in the garage. This housing was a bit too big for my table top lathe/mill, so did this in the drill press with 5/8" mill cutter.

 

I read so many articles about t5 and reverse trouble, wonder if this was an issue with them all along?

 

Glad you found the solution! Another great addition to this wonderful thread.

 

Damn. I knew there were a couple of different castings, but I never realized what mixing them up might do!

Good catch! Excellent fix!

Now we know!

 

I see where the error is. This is not an 1352-065. You got that number from a casting number on the case. That has noting to do with the build, just WC/NWC, and Ford/GM (or otherwise). All of the raised numbers on the case parts are simply part numbers for that individual part.

The engraving on the side of the case indicates what it is.

2.95 - .63 is the gear set, as denoted by first gear (2.95:1) and top gear (0.63:1).

I cannot tell you what exact sticker or metal tag this had on it, from the factory, but, as built this is a World Class T5, from a 1988-1992 Camaro or Firebird, with an S10 tail housing. Originally, this would have had a white and green sticker on the top over, indicating the build number, and a metal tag, under a tail housing bolt, also indicating the build.

This being the case, it should be running nothing but ATF! Gear oil or engine oil is the WRONG FLUID.

 

Hello all. I’ve read through this and many other t5 to flathead threads but can’t find what I’m after.
I have a t5 behind my 8ba. Last year I started to get bad clutch judder so pulled the trans over the winter. I’m just having my flywheel lightened and skimmed. In the meantime I’m trying to source a diaphragm clutch that would work. No problem re-drilling the flywheel to suit. I’m just unsure on what throw out bearing to use as my old one is too large a diameter (I had a 3 finger flathead pressure plate and stock throw out bearing).
Anyone have any part numbers or pics of a first hand way of fixing this issue. I can’t be alone.
Thanks all