My Kansas stuff rusts up really quick. Especially if I drive in the winter when they "salt" the roads... Sent from my Moto Z (2) using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Gibbs questions: If you buy it in the gallon do you just wipe it on with a rag or sponge or similar? In the long run is the gallon less expensive than spray cans? It would seem so (and obviously is per ounce), but how much do you lose by soaking a rag and then not getting to use it all? Or do you just put the rag/sponge in a sealable storage container and use it over and over? All you folks who use and recommend Gibbs: do you use spray or bulk? How long does it protect? Do you have to keep applying it periodically?
Yup. I'm all for Free Market capitalism. Of course that includes Free Market Competition. In true Free Market capitalism there is no patent protectionism. I'm not going to buy Bug and Tar remover at $6 dollars a pint when I can by kerosene and get almost two gallons for that. I thought the marketing of the Pet Rock was genius. Buy rocks for ten dollars a ton and sell them ten dollars a piece. But I wouldn't be a buyer.
What I have found; It has about 5 or more times the coverage of other products, As a lubricant it lasts about 5 - 10 tomes longer, thus saving reapplication time, It has a viscosity far superior to any other product. It has multiple functions, thus saving having various products for various uses. It actually does what it claims to do, with the exception of being able to paint over Epiglass PA10 It is the only product that I buy as I believe that it is the cheapest when taking into account the above. Other people may have different opinions. .
On Amazon you can get a 6 can (12oz) can case for about 57 bucks. The gallon is 85 bucks direct from Gibbs website and would probably go farther. You'd want to get a hand pressurized pump designed for oil. Rostoff used to have a sweet one....I see similar ones on Amazon. You could sneak the Misto out of the kitchen and try it out too. I bought 6 spray cans two years ago...still have a little left even after giving a can or two away. You dont need to use a ton but you want to wet the surface and let it penetrate....Spray can and red straw are nice for firing it into tight spots, sheet metal seams, etc....and for using it sparingly. In Western NY the temps can swing 40 to 60 degrees throughout a week...sometimes in a day....leaving anything not in a climate controlled room to sweat like crazy. I'll hit important stuff with Gibbs in the fall...and re-treat maybe once during the winter if I have a chance....no issues with flash rust. Aerosols might be easier and more convenient. If you're going to be super thrifty then putting rags dampened with Gibbs in Ziplock bags for later use would be a good idea. For sheetmetal that is going to be painted be mindful of the rags you use...fabric softener, detergent additives and silicone are your enemy. Disposable low lint (cheap) paper towels are your best bet. Sent from my SM-G950U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Atch, I just spray it on a clean rag and wipe. Don’t need to spray it. A little goes a long way. I wipe off the excess. Will last at least a few months. I use pre before paint. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
In the olden days, Rustoleum had a product they named "R9 Black" that was designed for this job. It could be sprayed on then washed off with paint thinner. Rusto claimed it would work for a year of outdoor exposure. No idea if it is still available.
Over on garage journal, there's a thread or two maybe three where guys set up in their big un heated barns a cheap but huge wedding tent from Amazon to work on stuff and better control the climate in the tent. Amazon Links to the tent there too
Should be a month or two job, work a section seal it move on 4 fenders, 3 doors, hood, top, left side, right side, inside. 12 areas 2 days each.
I was thinking along the same lines as 31Vicky. Build a frame out of 2X4's cover it with a tarp and clear plastic film (visquene type) draped down the sides. There should be some way to dehumidify the enclosure.
I buy Gibbs by the case. It works. My IHC has been on the Oregon coast doe a year, must be time for another coat.
Example of the dampness in my shop at times... Bought a car (my 36) that has exposed metal on some areas and the guy I bought it from uses this product and swears by it, here the the deep south humidity/change of temps is always a concern, it gets very damp in my shop until I can spray foam it but my drivers door NEVER flash rusts...see https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003Q7XWU4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I've got sorta the same issues inside of my tool boxes. Condensation like it's raining in the drawers. New shop and yesterday was the first day we got into my boxes trying to accomplish something automotive related. I'm Not sure what im going to do about that yet but it's got to be something. My initial knee jerk thought was to put computer fans in the back of the boxes. I'm not to sure I want to cut holes in them and then have to plug the tool box in. I'm sure condensation will get better once I can normalize the temperatures.
I, too, am an apostle of the gospel of Gibbs Brand. I find the so-called "spray can" to be a bit of a misnomer. The product doesn't actually spray a mist and apply like a spray can of paint. It's more like a dispenser of a frothy, bubbly liquid to just about always dribble it on a rag to spread it around and across the surface. This works fine because there is no overspray and your surface just needs a thin coat, not dripping wet.I've personally never held the top spray button fully for long. I've never applied it to a large body panel, etc., nor from a distance like onto the underside of a car on a lift. I'm a rag-n-wipe guy. If my rag is still a little saturated when I'm done with the main job, I just step over to my tool chest and give anything or everything a wipe and look around the shop for the next likely victim(s). I don't see why the rag couldn't be stored in a can or Ziploc for later use. One of my original and still favorite uses for Gibbs Brand is on chrome plated aluminum wheels. Its reputation is that it lasts a long time but I reapply it to my wheels maybe every 6 months because they get washed often. That's just me. I also like to wipe inside the (usually aluminum) rims before mounting tires to prevent the white, cheesy crud that often causes leaks. I've been able to ban WD40 from the shop and do away with all silicone contamination and related paint problems. I tend to wipe it on anything that rusts, pits, corrodes, peels. etc., that I've experienced in the past. The next day after applying, I can still notice a little residue on the surface but after a day or two more all visible traces are gone. It's still there and still working but you have to have faith. It's great on new builds and old builds. It penetrates old nuts and bolts and keeps new ones from rusting, even after the fact when they're in place.
Leave an old school drop light turned on in bottom of the box.....100w light bulb will keep everything warm enough to stay dry. Old trick welders use to keep welding rod dry. Keep the tools wiped down with Gibbs for extra insurance. Sent from my SM-G950U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Just wondering... I have access to some BD3211 anti-rust metal protectant. It is, in essence, spray Cosmoline. I've been thinking of spraying it on a rag and then wiping down my new, bare metal frame. It would have to be removed by solvent, like Gibs. Any thoughts, either way? Thanx, Gary
I don't remove Gibbs. Last week, I painted an alternator and AC co-bracket that I sprayed with Gibbs, in December. I just went for it. I had no issues. All I did for prep was a tack-rag, to get the dust off.
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