Projects Repair cracks in a 1939 Ford Deluxe steering wheel

I have an original 1939 Ford Banjo steering wheel - good shape except for the cracks along the outer portion. What is best method to repair / fill these cracks.

Thanks

Mike

 

There are some really good threads on that if you look. I know the search engine here is not very good but if use googles it will most likely bring you back here. If I remember some people just used Rage and some used an epoxy.

 

Seems like I remember someone selling a kit (maybe Eastwood) that included a two-part epoxy and some sandpaper sheets.

 

This wheel was badly split and cracked all the way around. I V'ed out all the cracks with a die grinder, then sandblasted the steel rim with a small spot blaster. To fill the cracks I used Pc7 2 part epoxy, actually most of the wheel ended up being made of it, then I used regular automotive filler to touch up any pinholes and imperfections. Very time consuming but it held up under 3 years of hard driving. Also wear a respirator, whatever material ford used on those wheels smells horrific when you grind it.

 

^^^Yup, PC7 worked for me, as well.


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looks great - just ordered some PC-7 online.

 

I made the mistake of using JB weld. After being stored in a warm storage garage for one year, the JB weld cracked at every place it was used.

 

Super glue and baking soda.... seriously. Thoroughly wet the area with glue, then shake baking soda over it. It will dry instantly. Repeat until filled, let it cure for 24 hours, then sand to shape.

 

I used the PC7 on mine that was very badly cracked. I have manual steering so the wheel sees a lot of force at low speeds. I also grab the top of the wheel tight when I row the 4-speed. I now have cracks showing up again, but minor.

 

It's not a 39 steering wheel but the repair I did for our '54 wagon's wheel used the same materials than any one would use to bring it back to a nice piece. HRP

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/steering-wheel-repair.675133/

 

Here's a good video that follows along the lines of the other responses.

 

Nice video. I have never seen that POR15 product before and it seems to have moisture-cure properties. So it will stick better than conventional epoxy putty.

 

Marin Tex, Grey or white, you can get it at any marine, boat repair shop. "V" out the crack, fill with Marine Tex, wet finger and smooth out. It sands at the same rate as the surrounding material which makes it take less steps and filler afterwards. Epoxy high build and than color..........................
Thread here;
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/steering-wheel-resto-job-finished.590437/

 

Not a banjo wheel, but I used PC7 also followed up with a couple coats of epoxy primer, then single stage urethane in this 36 wheel. Haven’t put it into service yet, so I can’t say if it’s gonna hold, but I’m happy with how it came out looks wise.

 

here's 2 spinner wheels that i've been patching. the maroonish one has what i remember as PC7 as the
tan filler with black JB-Weld on it. you can see the tan stuff has cracked. it's been sitting about 2 years waiting for me to get back to it.
the tan wheel has this 3M product that has been sitting in my basement for who knows how long. it just happens to be a similar color to the original wheel. it takes about 4-5 days for it to fully harden. i'll use a Dremel tool with sanding discs to smooth it out and add to it as needed.

 

51 Buick wheel I restored used plastic filler only not its trying to come apart lol gotta redo it and use that epoxy for sure


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"looks great - just ordered some PC-7 online."

Looks like it's best to let the thread play out before ordering anything!

 

PC7 and V the cracks is good advice but I'd add go easy on the epoxy. Its a bitch to sand, try not to go crazy and over fill to much as you'll just create more work sanding. Small imperfections can be fine tuned w regular body filler after the PC7.

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This is an excellent trick that really works. It is very strong and the powder makes it set very quickly. It is strong enough that you can use it to repair frets on a guitar.
Bob

 

Hmm I’ve never heard of that trick but it sounds interesting. I’m going to have to try that on something. Thanks for sharing that.


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Instead of baking soda you can use "Micro Balloons", their microscopic plastic round sphere's sold in most Hobby/Craft stores. More expensive than soda BUT instead of powder it's plastic and fills more solid.....................................

 

Here is a little trick I used. After you V the crack and put the epoxy into the crack, take a strip of plastic kitchen wrap and wrap it around the epoxy. It will pull the epoxy into the crack and keeps the stuff from dripping out the bottom. The PC7 won't stick to the plastic and after it sets up just peel it off. Makes for less sanding because the plastic will smooth out the repair area. Worked for me.

 

That's a twist I haven't seen yet. But I've had no issues with using soda; it's strong enough that I've used it to rebuild a plastic latch assembly where the last 1/4" of the male half of the latch was missing (the 'hook' that actually latched it had been broken off) by building up a 'glob' on the end of the latch then filed/sanded it back to the shape of the hook. Don't even attempt trying that with epoxy.

I have used a popsickle stick to 'pack' the baking soda into the joint... just don't use your fingers! LOLOL...

 

The Micro balloons gives the super glue more solid "body" when cured..........................

 

We have a Hobby Lobby nearby. I'll look for some of these. I'm assuming they will be in the craft section. I'd like to give these a try.

 

Watched a friend repair a badly cracked banjo wheel. It was a mess and he used bowling ball putty! It when in a restored show car after that and looked spectacular. I remembered that all these years but necessary had a wheel that needed repair to try it.

 

I have been using PC-7, for about 30-years.

No issues, yet.

 

v the cracks with a file where you can.drill some dimples into the V with a drill.where you can.these will give the filler extra hold.

 

" I know the search engine here is not very good but if use googles it will most likely bring you back here."

google advanced search https://www.google.com/advanced_search you get a very formal search that has some advantages, like focus on a single domain. If three months from now I think of bowling ball putty...who posted that?
When?? I can search thus:
on Google advanced, I set site or domain on jalopy journal.com a huge advantage
Then bowling ball putty on the phrase line, and maybe steering on the top line.
Bang. I'm back right here, instead of looking at 42,000,000 sites on actual bowling balls.
The site/domain line is the key IMHO...I can focus here, and avoid the horrid mess that is the rest of the world.

 

theres plenty of information on the subject here on the HAMB.my wheel had a lot of cracks and a chunk missing from the back around the mounting area.built that up with POR epoxy then turned it on a lathe to finish off.the three ribs gave me some extra problems.there is a small ridge in the center of the 3 ribs which travels around the horn button as well.took a long time to get the rib right.in the end I made up a stand to hold the wheel to the bench. and bolted a template to the wheel via the centre nut.used a block of timber wrapped in sandpaper ,followed the guide with the sanding block.it turned out fine I thought too good I eventually sanded most of the crème paint off to leave a worn look and lacquered it.it was too shiney for a truck.IMHO. used various grades of wet and dry sandpaper. im sure that during the working life of this truck there was plenty of people swinging from the column getting in/out.now that im taking care of it ,it wont be happening anymore.