Projects No spark from coil, no start

Haven't found anything for the NV3500 yet, At least not from 55 - 59.
Only thing that is coming up is the sm465 that is already in it

 

It has an SM420 in it. SM465's came along in 1968, and are a little bit longer than SM420's, and they all have a backup light switch in them. 1967 is the only year that SM420's have that feature.

 

Hmm, ok well when I google the truck it was coming up with sm465 as the 4 speed factory oem unit.
Either way doesn't matter, I plan to remove it and get the NV4500 like the one I took pics of in My boss's garage.

I found a trans out in the yard this evening but the top is been removed I can see the upper and lower shafts, but since no top cover or shifter I can't tell what the heck it is.
I can see several gears in it on top and bottom but that doesn't tell Me much as I'm not sure what I'm looking for.

If by chance it is a 5 speed then I can always take the top off another unit or order one from eBay and rebuild the sucker.

Anyway, I plan to look it over tomorrow and see what details I can find. Numbers and such.

I'll take some pics and post them and maybe you or someone can tell Me what it might bossibly be.

I was able to turn the shaft by hand and move the position selectors from gear to gear and they all seem to be in good working order.

I just wish the top was on it..ugh.

Anyway, thanks for the info and I will get back to you tomorrow at some point

 

Good morning everyone, I hope all is well with everyone.
We left Missoula and are traveling south for the winter.
Just wanted to do a quick update and wish everybody seasons greetings and blessings to you all.
I have put the truck on hold until we are settled and I have the time and space to pick it back up.

Will be looking for a garage to use as My shop and that way I'll be able to work on it properly and hopefully find the right tools to do all I need to.

So with that being said, I wish all of you a blessed and happy day/week and will check here often as I always do.

 

I want to thank all the H.AM.B.'ERS for all the help and advice on getting My rig running and driving.
I am very grateful to you all, and just want to say God bless to all, And wish you all a Merry Christmas.

 

Merry Christmas Mister E.

 

Happy New Year everybody!

Just changed out both front wheel bearings and had to buy new exhaust manifold gasket kit and will be installing that tomorrow.

Hope all are well and had a happy New Year celebrations.

We made it to Richmond Virginia thus far and are southbound for warmer weather.

 

Happy New Year

 

Thanks and same to you

 

My generator shit the bed, can anybody tell Me how to disassemble it and rebuild it or if there is somewhere to get a new one?
Finally got to our destination and as soon as we got here the power just drained completely out as we finished driving to the house and now its parked and sitting until i can find a solution. Dont want to convert to alternator want to keep original generator setup.
Thanks in advance

 

https://itstillruns.com/rebuild-old-auto-generator-7843180.html

 

They are simple beasts. BUT, they are not to be ignored. There's a reason alternators replaced them overnight. If you want to make them work for you, they need some attention once in a while. Replacements are expensive, no reason to do this.

Keep in mind they use a mechanical voltage regulator, these cause just as much or more trouble (due to neglect) than the generator itself. The regulator has vibrating contact points on three different windings, one each for cutout, voltage, and current. It is not unusual for a dirty contact relay on the cutout to stick closed. The battery juice then backfeeds into the generator fieldwindings and roasts it.

What I'm getting at is the two work as a system and they both need routine maintenance. The generator rebuild kits contain carbon brushes and bearings. Clean up the commutator. Be sure to seat the brushes to conform with the commutator surface before spooling it up. Don't forget to polarize the generator as well. Cleaning the regulator contacts is a little trickier. A spoon or riffler file is what you want to use.

Read up on them and get smart, AutoZone can't help you ... there are some good published docs in .pdf and scans from the good old days if you dig around the intertubes. Finally, a digital voltmeter won't work so well for measuring different voltages during testing. Really need a manual to make the different checks.

 

http://selectric.org/manuals/generator/index.html

Here's some brain juice to get ya going. There will be a test!

 

Hey thanks, I was able to buy a BRAND NEW one at O'Reillys auto parts. The cost of a grand total of $71.00 after tax.
Woohoo!!

And yes I will be studying how to maintain the generator so as to keep it going.

So thanks for the help, I really do appreciate it.

 

OK, but is the plan here to pair it with the crusty old voltage regulator? I would recommend finding an electric motor shop nearby. Use an NOS regulator (or good old used) with your new generator and have them spooled up together on their test rig and have it checked out for voltage, current, cutout, etc. Avoid like the plague the modern repro voltage regulators, in my opinion. A rebuilt generator, like alternator, is a crapshoot. They may have done a good job, or maybe not.

 

Ok so, I've got plenty of current from the generator, amd voltage regulator doesnt seem to be cauaing any issues. Now I'm still not aure as how tompair theae 2 to get them where they need to be.
If it's charging the battery already, what else should I do?

Just want to make sure I get things right the first time.
Thanks all

 

Sounds like you got a handle on it. Check voltage output. Spool engine up to 1800 -2000 RPM and turn the headlights on HI beam, heater blower, anything else you have, to load up the generator a bit and measure the charging voltage at the battery posts. See what you get.

 

Thanks,

I don't have any testing equipment here at home just yet, but I'm sure the auto parts store ahould have a tester to check the volts at battery with everything turned on and head lights on hi beam.

And hopefully they can check the voltage regulator at same time

 

Don't have a voltmeter? The auto parts store will sell you one, if you're gonna drive 60 year old iron you should have one! How did you do all those tests 10 pages back?

 

My boss had the voltmeter and such and tested when I was able to work on the truck while I was working for him.
I am buying tools and testers as I go.

 

When I read earlier you mentioned "I've got plenty of current from the generator" it sounded like you'd checked things out, then I wasn't so sure. Most modern DVOM that will measure amperes top out at 10 amps. Need something capable of measuring at least 30 amps. Anyway this is why I mentioned installing a NOS regulator, so it and the generator are on the same sheet of music. If the old generator lead to a dead battery at any time I would charge it back up with an external charger thoroughly.

I never paid any attention to this stuff years ago. Never gave it a second thought, and I drove everywhere, long road trips. Never had a problem on the road back then. Maybe that's the secret.

 

Yep, the Alfred E. Neuman approach to life has served me well.

 

Well i just did the jumper wire to the regulator terminals and nothing happens.. Then the sane from battery to gen terminal and it started to soun then stopped.. And now just a clicking sound at the regulator.. Think tge reg may be dirty going to pull it and try to clean up the inside connections and try again.

 

Easy hoss....This is why I suggested to get smart on this by doing your homework. The manual is your friend here. Maybe what you describe is correct, I dunno. There are two main types of Generator systems, the type "A" and Ford or type "B", they are different in the way the field coils are grounded. So one has to have a good understanding of what they are doing beforehand, or at least understand what not to do or you will let the magic smoke out. What were you trying to do, polarize the generator, motor the generator?

The regulators are touchy to work with, and cleaning the contacts is a great way to bugger them up. Somebody here at the HAMB I think it was said they worked at a large dealership or somesuch "back in the day" and out of a whole stable of mechanics he said there were only two guys they would ever let work on generator regulators and make adjustments to customer cars.

A defective regulator will smoke a generator, if the cutout sticks the battery voltage backfeeds into the field coils. Not trying to lecture you, just save you some trouble. I had was just this issue, thankfully in my driveway. I tried cleaning up the contacts a bit but didn't have any success. Eventually I replaced the generator with a rebuilt unit. The rebuilder installed but never sanded the brushes and I didn't check, it had sat on a shelf for a long time and was a gamble. The brushes burned up in just a few hundred miles.

A 12 volt Bosch solid state regulator for a generator equipped 70s Volkswagon would probably work for you. Anyway this is why I suggested visiting a motor shop where they can check both generator and regulator as a system. Hope this helps.

 

Well I shut the truck off after getting a jump start cus I smelled something like rubber, So I looked around and after a few minutes of not seeing anything decided better to be safe than sorry.
I got out My test light and there is power at the top post on the regulator, but that's it, nothing on the middle or bottom posts.. And there is NOTHING comming from the generator on either post. So now I am stumped and hope it is something small and simple as I dont want to have a dead generator, but plan to buy a new regulator and go from there.
I'm looking for a shop that can check them both for Me, but so far none that work on older stuff that would know what they are doing.
Ugh!

 

I just found that BOTH screws on the started button were extremely loose, so i tightened them both down. Not sure if that has much effect on current situation or not, but figure better check everything off as I go.

 

The only way, is to cut through the guess and by golly and use a methodical approach. RTFM! There aren't any shortcuts, at least until you reach a point where it's all memorized. You have to have a voltmeter, no way around it, and if measuring anything other than the charge voltage at the battery posts it really needs to be a needle type analog meter. A digital display is going to hork out on some of the tests when trying to test a mechanical voltage regulator.

With the generator on the bench (or on the truck) there's some tests you can make, for example spinning it up with a drill and measuring output, on a Ford type for example by tying the ARM and ... is it the FLD or GND with a jumper wire together? See, I can't remember. On type A generator's it's different. Ya gotta have a manual or you'll roast something. Can also see if the generator will motor if 12 volts is applied. These aren't definitive tests but if the generator motors OK it should work.

 

So the easy way to remember a straight 6 firing order is...15 is too young, 36 is too old and 24 is just right, old guy told me that back when I was 16 or so... could not figure out what was wrong with a 15 year old back then.... now that I'm 59 I can't see what would be wrong with a 36 year old...

 

Just got the generator tested and works woohoo.


Now waiting for truck to arrive and get the new volt regulator and put it in and polarize them both.

 

Thanks,
already past the firing order issue for a while now.