Technical Gear vendors Clean 12 volts?

Having a little frustration with a installation of a gear vendors control unit. It seems to be picking up a rfi signal and it thinks the car is moing when it is not. This shuts the unit down. Apparently coming in through the 12 volt power input.
I connected it up to a seperate 12 volt battery and everything works great.
I am a licensed electrician and worked a lot with control systems and whenever we had a problem with AC circuits we would put in a isolation transformer (24 volts to 24volts).
You cannot use a transorter on DC voltage. Gear vendors sells a new style control unit that they say is better with rfi, but the price is $400.
Any ideas?

 

Take the belt off of the alternator and try it.

 

Yes. I thought about that, but I can't drive it without an alternator.

 

You might try installing a 'choke' (inductor) on the power supply to the OD. These are fairly common in car audio and used for the same reason you need one; if you've ever seen a head unit with a small plastic box installed in-line on the power supply wire, that's what it is.

Maybe something like this: https://powerwerx.com/dc-line-noise...MIxfma86nu3wIVkyCtBh3t9g6aEAQYAyABEgJWR_D_BwE

 

Remove the belt and run without the alternator, like said above. If it works then, try a different alternator.

 

You can drive for quite a while without the alternator.

 

I hope it's not the alternator. I just put in a brand new tuff stuff 100 amp alternator before the gear vendors installation.

 

This might work as long as it doesn't share the ground with both sides.
I already tried a powe converter 3-12 volts in and 12 volts out, but both sides share the same ground and the problem was still there. I'll look into the choke.

 

I don't know what the gear vendors unit looks like, but choke is a good idea.
Depending on current draw, you may could try at the power source (battery, etc.) is a fuse in holder...then a choke, then shielded cable, ground shield there at the source. Then at the unit (is unit in a metal box?), power in, then ground cable shield there also, then electrolytic capacitor there to ground (ground---cap side), maybe 470 to 1000ufd @ 25V.

Sent from my SM-S320VL using Tapatalk

 

I'm thinking a decent audio shop would have what you need.

 

Maybe try to unhook the wiring to the gear venders and just wire it direct with a toggle switch... plan to run mine that way

 

The gv unit is a metal box. The system only draws 2 amps.
I have it mounted in the lower part of my center console . I did try a shielded ground to the unit with no luck.
I'm thinking the choke and capacitor may work.
Thanks for your input.

 

Yes. That is an option, but I would like to use it for more automatic gear splitting.
Got to keep atleast one hand on the steering wheel.

 

might get an oscilloscope on there and see what kind of electrical noise you're dealing with....it's easier to fix, if you can figure out the source

 

I have 4ea cars with the GV’s on one of them the controller failed , these units have been in the cars for a long time. When I replaced on with a new controller ,it didn’t work , called them and was told about the power, I was a a little ?? . But put a switch to interrupt power , fixed it. After the car is started and running it works fine, if the unit is left powered by the key , start the car and failure. A pain ,but livable.

 

I agree with Jim ... you need to measure the AC ripple on your 12 volt signal using a scope or good multimeter ... sounds like the filtering capacitors in the control unit may have started to fail ..... if electrolytic caps used , they do have a shelve life ... Flathead 47

 

Thanks sevenhills1952.
Your post got me thinking.
My battery is in the trunk only 2 feet away from the control unit.
Tried wiring direct to battery through a ignition powered relay. PROBLEM SOLVED. Was apparently picking up rfi through wiring harnesses.
Didn't need choke or shielding.

 

Thanks for posting the solution.

 

Bjr: That's what it's all about