Most Ford guys will say don't use that three legged puller on a Ford axe. They work great on Mopar and Jeeps though. I was going to say that this guys sells a puller that is said to work pretty good but it looks like he is out of them. Main thing is that the puller clamps under the ring on the hub made for the puller to pull against rather than pulling on the lugs and flange. https://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-REAR-DRUM-HUB-PULLER-1928-1948-FLATHEAD-28-29-30-32-34-35-36-38-40-47-48/182944216086?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 Here is on that is a bit different in style https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Linco...h=item255d6e9a81:g:URAAAOSwDk5T2E33:rk:1:pf:0 It looks like Macs is selling that first style. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Model-A-Fo...h=item1a6d0c5e65:g:WOAAAOSwwfFcJlx5:rk:6:pf:0
Is the transmission in neutral, if so, that is where your motion is going? Take the nut off of the axle shaft, how much torque did it take to loosen it? If it is not very much you might get away with a cheap puller, just don't put too much force on it or you might damage the axle or drum. How about a photo of the axle where the key broke, it may be junk? Charlie Stephens
I've often heard not to use anything but the Ford type puller on a Ford especially on the model A type drums but I do not believe it to be at all true from experience. I have a Ford one lost in the garage somewhere and if it stays lost that's fine with me haha.
Here is the axle that the key broke on. I also took out wood in front today. Cant believe there is no rot. Front shot in garage too.
Also, the drum on the broken side has a ressed groove but the one that is tight has the external lip. 2 different drums...
It looks to me like the threads are stripped on the axle. That's a good reason why the nut wasn't tightened properly. a loose nut will allow the hub to work back and forth on the axle causing the key to shear. If that nut was torqued correctly the taper would drive the car, not the key! Lathes and drill presses drive the chucks by the taper. You might be able to chase those threads by engaging a split die over the good inner threads and screwing it out. Don't think you will be able to get it started by screwing it in without cross threading it. That's most likely how they got damaged previously, because some fool swelled out the threads trying to beat on the end of the axle with the wrong type of hub puller.
This is the type of hub puller you need, I got this one from " Bratton's" in MD phone # 800-255-1929 They also sell that special long nut, that is meant to screw on until it bottoms on the shoulder on the axle beyond the threads, so the push pressure is on the shoulder , NOT ON THE THREADS ! Those other types of pullers that attach to the wheel studs cause the pulling action to flex the hub, instead of pulling out over the axle taper.
In addition to the threads being damaged as XIX32 noted it looks like the groove is "wallowed" out. It is possible it is just the camera angle, you could try a new key in it. This axle is ready to be replaced. I wonder if you should take the whole rear end assemble to someone that is good at rebuilding them? It would also solve the problem of getting the other hub/drum off. If the rear end ratio isn't 3.54 I think I would change it to that ratio. Charlie Stephens
That's good advise from "Charlie Stephens" suggesting a 3.54 ring and pinion, and as he said you might have to pull that whole rear end apart to fix it properly. I've had some thoughts in the past about how to fix those stripped axle threads without pulling the axle out. It involves finding an "artist" with a Tig welder. This method is nearly impossible with out the axle out in a lathe, but maybe the stripped end could be welded up and then filed down ( or with a grinder while the axle is turning under power) to the correct o.d., then the threads rethreaded by engaging a split die over the good inner threads and then turning it out over the welded up end. Of course this method would be nearly impossible to accomplish without the axle in a lathe. .... just some thoughts.
The mechanical brake system is good, as long as all the components are all in good shape.. Every fraction of an inch of play adds up. Every bushing, brake rod, lever, springs and most of all the shoes and drums should be replaced or rebuilt.
No mater how long it sits, 1 year or 70 years they will still be the same as when it was parked. No hydraulic lines to rust out or leak. The main reason old Henry stayed with them so long, bulletproof.
Make sure the drum seat properly on the axel I lightly lap mine in so it does not too much else it will rub on the backing plates. The stock brakes should be fine with careful adjustment and a Flathead Ted kit fitted remember if you can lock the wheels so they dont turn then any other type of brake other than ABS wont improve braking much If you want to lower the front end it is possible to fit a 32 to 36 front axel and retain your brakes infact on a fendered car it is about as much as you can lower it without changing the wheels.
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