Technical Transverse front suspension travel

Well, goodbye electric fan and hello flex fan.
Using a stock 50s Y block fan spacer puts the fan 3/4” away from the rad and in front of the tie rod.

It sits in front of the tie rod and about 2” above it.

Fully collapsing the suspension still leaves a little room.

Testing it out I’ll have 1 1/2” of suspension travel just like @31Vicky with a hemi said.

I’ll have plenty of room.

After visiting my buddy with the orange 27 and looking again at his car he assured me that I won’t need a shroud.

 

I’ve decided to make a few changes.
I removed the pulley from the front of the harmonic balancer and had it machined back to a single pulley, eliminating the extra unused groove.

This is going to allow me to put some bends in the tie rod that will move in back towards the front of the engine a small amount.

This will give extra insurance that nothing will hit what it’s not supposed to (like the fan)
and I think I will also be able to come up with a shroud.

The ideas are in my head, just have to make it happen.

 

Watch out for the ideas in your head, some people have bad luck with the ideas in their heads........

 

I’m thinking that they’re good ideas so far

 

Do you have some close up pictures of the front crossmember to frame detail?

thanks,

Dan T

 

...and let us know how a bent tie rod makes it even remotely possible to set toe.

You have the tie rod in the wrong place. It's time to admit it.

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Probably buried somewhere in my build thread.
The crossmember is flat and is welded to the ends of the frame rails and then my radiator support pads and the upper mounting point for my combination F1 shock mount/headlight mount ties it all together for strength.

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/26-t-roadster-pick-up-build-thread.460009/

 

I have built bent tie rods with a turnbuckle in the middle. He could do this, carefully, and not even really disturb the chrome.

 

Like this:
https://pitstopusa.com/i-14482549-ub-machine-5-8-turnbuckle.html

I just happen to have one next to me.

 

Okay Mr. expert.
I won’t be the first one to ever bend a tie rod.
Setting toe in will actually be relatively easy.
A bent tie rod still allows for One full turn of adjustment.
With fine thread tie rods you can always pop one or both ends out if you need finer adjustment than that.

My tie rod is in the perfect place for how my front suspension is designed.

The changes are in line with my desire to run the engine driven fan.

If I had just left the electric fan it would have been fine.

Since I wasn’t happy with that I have moved on to making it work.

Thanks for your expert opinion and your vote of confidence

 

Of course it is possible. Probably just a whole lot more time consuming at worst. Everything on a hot rod is a compromise between practical and our own personal aesthetic.

 

Is that available in 11/16” thread ? Interesting idea.

 

Not sure. The manufacturer may have more than what is on that race site.

Sis you drill, then tap for 11/16-18? If so, you might have a good diameter for 5/8" already. If you just tapped directly, you might not.

 

The tie rod tubing is 7/8” OD and the wall thickness is . 120 I believe the ID is .625 which is ready for threading to 11/16”.

 

Use an adjusting sleeve from a late model like a '40, shorten and bore the end of the tie rod to 11/16", then turn down and weld in a short section of the threaded end from late drag link.

On the other hand, if you can swing the bent tie rod; it is probably cleaner looking to adjust it as you described above.

 

Yeah, no room there. I will check the 4x4 sites for an 11/16" one.

 

next it'll be the a!ternator , or some other part , face it this car's never gonna get done , he's having too much fun building and rebuilding .... don't know I've ever seen anybody this obsessive...,.....scary...

 

You've never aligned a front end by what you just said about turning the ends in the stationary rod. I thought about not saying anything in the first place, but a few viewers here think your front end is so cool looking. Why let them copy what you are doing? Maybe I should have? Oh, I'm not going back to look at the pics, but as I recall, your scrub radius is way off too. .

This sure won't go over good, but I passed ASE certification in Front Ends and Brakes back in the 70s, so don't waste words saying you can adjust toe by dropping one end and giving one turn..."it don't work". Or, you don't have believe that...just go try it...and see. When you are adjusting toe properly, to true specs, you turn the original style rod setup just a few degrees of rotation as you get to final spec.

Sure, I knew about sleeves...but, you guys are missing the main point. When you steer off the traditional course, or even the common sense course in building a beam car, you can end up with a messy looking setup. Who knows if that sleeve on one end is just enough fatter with it's band clamps or jamb nuts, to now hit the top of that painted framerail on hard turns when side-hilling? We don't know yet, do we?

 

What happens at full lock? Got enough room? Mine is dropped on my roadster, I'll take pics tomorrow and post them.

 

I’ll most definitely finish the build.
Everything I’ve done so far has been to improve the final result.
I’m going to be driving this summer.

Plenty of room at full lock. I made sure of that.

I’m going to gain enough room at full lock with my change to the tie rod to allow for a fan shroud, which is going to be in 2 pieces for easy installation and removal.

I love all the guys who are being cynical
Stand back and watch.
I think I’ve shown some of what I can do so far with my build.

 

You have lost touch with physics. You are stubborn and unwilling to actually try setting toe with just screwing ONE rod end. You seem to be delusional in saying you can set toe because it's fine thread, and seem unaware that one thread at the length of a steering arm will move the toe a huge amount at the tread of the tires. GO TRY IT !
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I said your scrub RADIUS was off..not scrub LINE....see? you are just not aware of what's going on.

Ok, tried and tested or proven? Look at the last pic above...their scrub radius is wrong as well, but if I recall your pics correctly, yours is off even more...but who cares, Right?... if the sheeple buy it as "tested" or "done all the time"?...


You admitted in this last post that you copied somebody's else's work...that is why I bring this all up, as a couple of others here have been thinking yours is great and will try to copy your "copied mistakes".

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11/16 is a Henry ford odd ball thing, never seen other than early ford stuff it’s like 12-24 screws!

 

Well a solution to the tie rod situation has been resolved.

I decided to look into @gimpyshotrods solution with the double adjuster for the center of my tie rod.

While I could have set my toe in without it having it will make things much easier.

Since I can’t get an 11/16” double adjuster, (they’re just not made) I ordered up one in 5/8-18 stainless (with stainless jam nuts) and ordered some Stainless 7/8 x .156 wall tie rod tubing.

I also ordered a pair of polished stainless tie rod ends in 5/8-18 thread from So-Cal.

Tubing details:

Tie Rod Style:
Straight
Thread Pitch:
5/8"-18
Material Type:
Stainless Steel
Finish:
Polished
Diameter:
.875"
Overall Thickness:
.156"

Other parts:


So in the end I’ll have my offset tie rod and have easy toe in adjustment.

I’ll also have clearance from the fan and room for the shroud I’ll fab too.

Kind of like having my cake and eating it too

 

You aren't looking too hard

 

I generally try to avoid sick people ..

 

I don’t think he likes us

Being particular and trying to do your best is a fine sickness to have

 

^^^Total nonsense, don't anyone listen to this foolishness or try to copy this "Kulture style"
aka "rat rod" front end.

Look at the never ending chain reaction of making changes due to not running the tie rod under the car where it belongs.

He has no idea that with a scrub radius error, combined with excessive caster which is most likely at the sheeple setting of 7 or 8, that when he hits a pothole with one wheel, that "pre-bent" tie rod WILL flex. When you hit a pot hole, that wheel will get forced outwards due to the scrub radius error. Then that spindle arm tries to shove the tie rod to the other side, and if the caster is heavy, that other wheel resists turning more than at minimal caster...so, the tie rod (one that is bent), will definitely flex.

And guess where the most of the flex will happen? ...at the middle of any tie rod, where that "Band-Aid" center adjuster is planned. You are building a complicated mess, just by insisting you have a "proven/or accepted design".

As many of you hambers know, there is no one single thing that causes death wobble, as it is a combination of things not being correct, and this build is heading in that direction.
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Ok Frank, this is not the thread you are looking for. Move along.
Go take your medication and have a nice day.

 

Well, you finally got something right.

..hey, I even gave it a "like"

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