Projects Proper '32 Pickup build thread??

YES!! Thank you! I know everybody has seen a ride that just totally trips their trigger. This is it for me. Now, not wanting to be a TOTAL copy cat, I plan to run radials as mentioned earlier, I'll have the commercial grille shell (no insert to paint) and I plan to paint the wheels Cadillac blue to match the engine. Other than that..........

 

Hmmm....not sure how my reply got pulled into HRP's quote but Yes, that's the one!

 

It's possible I suppose, need to do some measuring once it's all pulled apart. No idea how many miles are on it but for now I'm counting on a full rebuild.

 

PK You can edit your post and correct it. What you would do in edit mode is select only your text by clic and drag and cut it then paste it outside after the last QUOTE] <here
What you did in error was clic into the quote and type your response...a common error...hope this helps.

 

DONE! Thanks Stogy! I figured I just did something stupid. Pretty common for me.

 

a 33-34 pickup firewall will definitely need some cutting. I say that as I did a 331 in a 32 with the flatter firewall.

Also, if you are running hoodsides and stock exhaust manifolds, you will be very close at the front of the more forward bank, but it will clear. The Cad uses nice front/side motor mount bosses, so the mounts will be pretty easy to fab up.

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Street Rodder Magazine's 2018 Road tour vehicle was a 1932 Ford pickup. It's pretty much all aftermarket, they used one of those bodies from Union Pacific and a frame from The Roadster Shop. They put out a special magazine covering the build, you may be able to find it on your local newsstand. Granted, being Street Rodder Magazine it is a street rod but it may be useful to give you some ideas. There's some info on the truck on the Pete and Jakes website. https://www.peteandjakes.com/street-rodder-road-tour-1932-ford-pick-up/

 

I assume the '32 firewall didn't require cutting? By my quick measurements I think I'll need about a 3" recess in the firewall. I plan to run two stock left side center dump cast iron manifolds. I saw a pic of a '32 with an early Cad mill somewhere with a full hood and yes, the front of the engine cleared by a small margin.

 

I don't know what's under the hood (sbc?) but I don't see any billet gee-gaws, graphics or mustang 2 r&p. Looks like a Hot Rod to me!

 

A tip on getting a particular members' direct attention on the forum without using the PM feature is to type for example: @HOTRODPRIMER
You have to use the EXACT spelling, spacing and upper/lower case, the way each member originally registered it.

 

Cool project! I think you’re in the right place. You might consider calling it a 33 instead of a 32 since the firewall is the big tell. You could put a 32 firewall in as it will fit. Up to you. Keep the pics coming...

 

It did need cutting. I can't say how much as the firewall came from an old rod and was already cut some. I am pretty sure the Cad needs more room than it's sister, the Olds Rocket like my avatar. Mine looks like it had zero cut, but there was very slight "trimming" at the lower lip where the wood toe board was when new...due to the Olds extended block. (pic below looks like no cut at all) 1955 Olds 324.


I'd bring the Cad right up close to the new repro (thicker) radiator with your fan...as close as possible. Mine clears the bottom tank seam by 3/8" max, (because of motor angle, that is closest point to fan tip) and that has caused no issues as a daily. There is plenty of room at the fan hub bolts.....again, due to the motor angle.

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Thanks for the Tips F&J. As soon as I get the radiator I'll start mocking up engine position in the chassis, then I can see just how deep it's going to get into the firewall. I like the added room in the cab the '33-'34 firewall gives but I suspect I'll lose most of it. Oh well, it is what it is.
I was going to ask how close I should position the fan to the radiator but you just answered my question before I asked! Fantastic rod you got there too!

 

Don't panic. Take/find a same view of a 33/34 truck cab and firewall...compare the total "pushed out" distance of that firewall, then look at my firewall or any 32. Note that the 32 also is pushed forward, but down low where the heads & valve covers need room. There probably is not a huge difference. I just don't have a 33/34 local to measure the real difference.

With any large sized motor in these vehicles, you just need to spend whatever time it takes in mock-up. You balance "what affects what" if you move it a bit at that point. Any foot-room space you can save, is premium, due to trans/bell tunnel shape. That's why I said the later 331 block is going to be a big plus with your trans.

I also run the tunnel shaping fairly tight to the bell. My car has no floor heating even in summer, so there is still air getting up in there.

One huge advantage of A/T is that in a stick car... that it's really tough to find good room for a comfortable gas pedal spot with 3 pedals. Keep the gas pedal location in mind during the mock-up, and not waiting until the end of the final build.
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I think I would look first at the flange on the bottom of the frame and call it a '32. I think the DMV will want to go by the year of the frame. Any chance the manufacturer of the frame is authorized to assign numbers? As I posted before, be sure to get friendly with the DMV early. It might pay to talk with someone that specializes in registrations and titling to find what are the things to say and not say to the DMV. Also how to guide them through their vehicle code since a given agent doesn't deal with a situation like yours very often.

Charlie Stephens

 

Looking forward to seeing this come together...especially like the Caddy... I'm building a 390 for my 32 Sedan, everyone I have spoken to regarding engine position/ firewall clearance say that they moved their front crossmember forward about 1.5" - 2" to fit with a 32 firewall. Now for me that's not possible as I have pinched and bobbed the front end.... originally I had a Flathead but changed my mind. I would suggest exploring that option...otherwise the '33 firewall gains will be lost entirely.

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I like trucks, i'll watch!

 

I'll certainly look at that DeLuxe. I am hoping to use a stock style hood but I suppose a stretched hood is an option? I'm fairly short at 5'-7" so legroom for me isn't as much of an issue as it would be for others.

 

If you recess the firewall enough it can be squeezed in...that's what I'll do in my sedan....It would be easier than moving crossmember...I do have the luxury of moving the seat back though

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Took some pics of the '33-'34 firewall. From cowl edge to face of firewall at the top is 2 3/4". About 2/3 down at the top of the footwell it juts out a strong 5". Since a '32 hood is 32" long and I'll lose 5" at the foot well that leaves 27" assuming no loss at the front (radiator). The 331 Cad is 28 1/8" bellhousing surface to fan mounting flange on water pump.

 

Here's some shots of how the passenger car gas tank works out on this pickup. The gas tank is bolted into the frame and the bed is set at it's proper position. The little trap door in the bed pops up to reveal the gas cap. Slick huh?

 

Slicker than shit. What a great idea. Thanks for the pictures.

 

How to move a pickup bed for those of us who mainly work by ourselves. The wifey did come out and help steady it while I moved the tractor. I don't put a lot of hours on it but it sure comes in handy when the need arises! Loading up to take to paint shop.

 

The paint shop.....I personally would paint it single stage gloss black.
Sorry HRP.

 

For now all of the bare metal is getting epoxy primer/sealer.

 

Dropped off the Cad 331 at a small machine shop in Staunton, Va. Jerry's Engines is a one man shop that was recommended by some local car guys. Next step is to disassemble, hot tank, and che ck all parts for cracks/damage.

 

Jerry's in Staunton, Va. That's about 80 miles from me. All the local machine shops do dirt tracker motors first & I get tired of waiting 2-3 months for my heads/parts to come back. I'll keep a closer watch on your story & see how your motor work goes - thanks!

 

Jerry is a one man operation and I told him I wasn't in a hurry so you may not want to judge based on my experience. He is supposed to call me once the block and heads are cleaned and magnafluxed so I can pick up the parts and mock up the motor and trans mounts in my chassis.
I received my Walker Radiator this week and the commercial grille shell from United Pacific. Everything fit together flawlessly.
The Brookville bed is now black.......

 

So you painted stuff before you fitted the fenders? Good luck!

 

Haha., no, just black primer/sealer to prevent rust on the bare metal parts.