Projects Front engine dragster-Chassis Research 1958 -"Moon Rocket"

The tag says 0-750 15-1300 and this is ground point connection, to kill the spark?

 

Really old tag, Hold the drive gear and see if the rotor moves/twists. Not a big issue, just means that you will have to power time it with a light if it is not locked out, at least 2164 rpm. You should still have it serviced before use if you dont have the history on it to eliminate the fustration of problems at first fireup. The terminal is where the grounding switch connects to.
In any case with that starter button, you will need a seperate switch for the mag and starting will be a 2 hand ordeal also consider that a fuel shut-off cable next to the mag switch will also be required. It is the norm to kill the motor by shutting off the fuel and running dry first before you switch the mag to ground

 

Thanks for those inputs! Ill check if the rotor is solid or or not against drive unit, now I remember what advance means, on a old regular gasoline engine, you have a vacuum, to adjust timing pre-TDC .
The start button is only for the starter, so I need two switches, One for ignition, One for fuel on/off-return .
Yes, at least the fuel and ignition system should be checked upp, and set right for this setup, specially when Im a rookie on old school dragracing.

 

Okay, some maybe stupid questions, but for the mounting of motor gearbox and rearend, well, I have solid mount for banjo, and in front of engine with the Hurst mount. BUT, should there be a engineplate between engine and gearbox-solid to chassi? Its weak to just have in front and rearend..

 

Yes it would be advised to install an engine plate between the trans and engine it will make things way easier to work on as well lol especially when you have to have the engine out or trans for that matter and trust me you will at some point


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Thanks! Yeah, I will order a plate to welded in chassi, makes sense

 

I wouldn't weld it in I would bolt it in because it will make getting the trans out way easier lol


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True words there.... Lol
Thanks again, saves me trouble hahaha

 

Turning 35 yo today, Still no running FED, but in Good progress
I did buy some wall art , to keep the spirit glow.

 

The rear axle comes little too close to the lower back tube, where I sit.
I want to sit further down , so I think I replace that straight tube with a angled. machined a piece , to beef the tubes together when I weld they together all 3 Pieces.
now I think there will be more room.

 

I understand stalled projects. Just keep collecting parts and pictures until you have more time/money. My biggest question is this: Are there tumbleweeds in Sweden?

 

Well there is One at least, and here I am
Okay, sometimes when I sneak out to My garage at night..there is some little noice inside, and when I slowly check out the window and look inside , there is a tumbleweed family livin inside! The small tumbleweeds kids are tumble and thumble , making that mess .

 

the chute connecting needs to fit the rail. So I worked on a bracket
the bracket goes round the tube, bolted with 4 bolts in tube. Then a M20 Bolt to hold the chute .
I think this will work.

 

Looks healthy enough.

 

I just use a hitch pin instead of the big bolt as it is real easy to remove the chute but my brackets are also welded to my push bar


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hitch pin, hum, do you have a picture of that? I want a smooth sollution for take it on and off, as My chute bag.

 

I can take one but it might be a day or so before I can get there as it is in storage for now I need to go check it over anyway lol


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Drilled a hole in the shank of a cut down bolt and welded a ring to the hex

 

Nice work!!
I might copy that modded bolt

 

Hope these pics are good enough for you to see if not let me know and I can get some more but this is the strongest point and when the chute is pulled it slows the car nice and evenly

 

Interesting shear point on the mounting bracket. Looks like some special housing.

 

That was a good nice sollution , thanks for those inputs and inspiration.
Can I see the hole fed?- , looks Good and just waits for next race
The loss of paint on the pushbar tells me thats not a trailerqueen, and thats nice!

 

Thanks I sometimes tend to over engineer things a bit but sometimes it pays off lol. It does ride a trailer but not at the dragstrip it is run hard here it is at a car show just before thanksgiving oh and it's a stick shift as well

 

Th

That is One hell of a ride!!!!
Do you have some more pics here at hamb? Wow, I need to finish up and run the rail on on track!

 

Strange Engr 9" Top-loader installed in a F/C chassis. The plate between the housing and Chute mount is also the lower anti rotation support that ties to frame. This insures that the frame picks up the load of the chute hit and not just the housing

 

Thanks man I really don't have a build thread or anything and I know there are pics on the meltdown threads and H.A.M.B. Drags threads but nothing dedicated to it The car hasn't run that great this year since I put the hemi in it as I've had all kinds of problems but the last couple years with the blown sbc it ran real good low tens at about 135 mph which is all that nhra will allow with the sled style chassis but I'm telling you if it would go faster I would pedal it as fast as it would go the car is real easy to drive it runs straight as an arrow and will pull big wheelstands if I want it to oh one more thing get yours running then go to the track and drive it that's what they were meant to do

 

I remember your fed pic when your backtires also left the ground when your ran sbc

Yeah, My fed needs to smoke some rubber!

 

Merry Christmas everyone!

 

really nice thread, have been following from the beginning. lots of good advice here. these recent posts bring me back to when I restored and ran my vintage rail in the early and mid 90's with FI. I ran a scintilla vertex from the 40's (re-built by ronco) an early hilborn FI manifold with 2.0625 stack openings a pg-150-O pump with a single bypass back to the tank (I forget what return pill and springI had in there?) the metering valve set up for gas I dont remember the size,and 7A nozzles at the stacks (for gas). plumbed up a puke tank for filling the block with water/overflow and went racing.