Termites and Bowties- Early Chevy Group

CHUCK....my advice to him, offline , was the same, take the beefier trans 700R4 to begin with , with the better 306----1 first gear.

The 200 R4 can be beefed up to take it same as a power glide can, why bother , 700 already has it and easily beefed up more.. The GM 700 has a furnace brazed converter and available right over the counter with warranty. Kits can be purchased from ATI for non computer operation. A GM one might be available ?

Believe that's TCI who offers a special bracket for a holley carb and the correct electrics to make the converter lock up.
mike lynch

 

back at working on my 35 chev roadster chassis and battleship toughing it up. The main X member support is bolted in and the 2nd rear support has been added to match the front.

A driveshaft matching up to the tremec front yoke and the jaguar rear end yoke with a 70 chevelle driveshaft yoke getting them all together. Driveshaft is a shortie at 31 1/2". Driveline services in Oshawa fabbed the shaft for me.

Interesting I was talking a aluminum driveshaft but it was a no go. What he did was spun the driveshaft in his lathe with crocus cloth to clean it up. Rather than paint or powder coat it, he recommended I use a resin wax from England and wax the shaft. Well as you can see it now looks like its stainless steel. Will be the only shiny part under the car as everything else will be paint or powder coat parts.
mike lynch

 

madmike what rearend is that

 

its a jaguar 1975 IRS, basically same from 62--88 except for widths. I have this one in my 35 chev coupe, also one in my 35 phaeton and the under construction roadster....shazzbott.

I offer caliper mounting brackets for WILWOOD 4 piston brakes and mechanical spot brakes, UHMW bears in place of stock ball bearings, special grade 8 side mounting bracket bolts and an aluminum jacking plate, all this for jaguar irs 1962--1988 The caliper bracket takes the brakes and faces them rear ward and the spots to the front. Far superior to stock jag.

mike lynch




We offer

 

I thought I might throw up my all steel 35 Chevy phaeton, Holden body from Australia. Holden produced 647, Fisher produced 210. Holden and Fisher bodies are totally different, the only things that interchange are the bolt on sheet metal; fenders, hood, running boards, grill






Here's another local all steel 35 Holden bodied phaeton.

 

I'd think that a stock 700r4 wud be a bit weak for 435hp, so an upgrade wud be recommended. Size-wise, I think the 2004r is a little smaller which might be a factor during the build. I don't have my measurements handy to say for sure. Gearing is definitely different between the two. The 2004r has gearing that is closer together than the 700r4 and a .67 OD. The 700r4 gearing is a little wider and has a .70 OD. It pretty much boils down to what you want to do with your car, i.e., some Saturday nite racing or just cruising down the highway.

 

BOWTIE, my 35 coupe has a beefed up ZZ4 motor producing 430 hp ( Chevrolet hot cam kit with 1.6 roller rockers and special valve springs , pro-car full headers ) with a 700R4 behind it with the 3.06 first gear. I don't baby that car in 18 years since the rebuild of chassis/driveline . I think you will find the 700 is the beefier trans and that the 200 needs beefing up to handle it. Space or size is not a consideration for the blue 34 roadster as it has an aftermarket chassis all tube'd x member system.
The ZZ383 he wants to run is only rated at 420 hp crate stock.

If I wasn't running the tremec 6 speed , I would gladly stick a 700 behind a built 383 with confidence.

Phaetons have to run top up, they just appear awkward with top down.

mike

 

I'm in the building stage of my 35 standard 2dr sedan and it came with a corvette really not even install except 2 bolts to hold it in the frame.That is why I ask.Just finished making all the metal to replace the rotten and missing wood in body now back on the cross braces on body.It take me a while days and days to finish one item after all retirement means you do not work till midnight like I used to.I finish 1 car then go to another one to build.Thanks for info.Thanks

 

FLATMOTOR...........there are people who make 34-35 standard wood parts, some of those parts may be in stock. Or you can make what you need in metal.

The corvette rear you have is classified as an IRS, but its not as Independent a movement as a jaguar. Jaguar has the brakes mounted inward to the center section , whereas the vet has them mounted outward and all that un-sprung weight hanging out there effecting ride. When a jaguar rear moves the outer hubs move in a perfect plane to the wheel mounting flange, it stays straight all the way thru the upward motion. Therefore it can be installed with tires much closer to the inside quarter panel without rubbing.. Any rubbing would happen because of body roll and lack of sufficient sway bar size. I run .900 nascar sway bar and body does not roll in corners.

The Corvette IRS, basically pivots at the center section and wheels and tires will move telescoping inward at the top, "in an arc", because the outer hubs are not as Independent. The design restricts the movement and that causes the half shafts to pivot inwards. I would also eliminate the concentric adjustment and go to quality QA1 heim spherical rod ends once the alignment has been done.

Jaguar uses a DANA 44 rear gear set, plenty beefy. The corvette use a 12 bolt Salisbury design and has proven plenty strong.
Jaguars come 53 1/2" , 56" and 62" wide and with forged half shafts. If you need a width different than whats stock your into some complicated cutting and welding.. Not a problem as I know how to do the 1/2 shafts. See picture. Lower control arms need to be shortened using a home made jig. The 56-57" width is the preferred width for 34-35 chevrolets standard series.

The corvette half shafts can be shortened at any driveshaft fab place. Once the rear spring is scrapped and replaced with gas coil over shocks it will ride way better. Or air ride shock system.

Both of the Auzzie tourings I believe have corvette rear ends
mike lynch

 

I got a set of custom rear bars from a guy in Canada last year to replace the factory bars because they were too long and run into the running boards.It came with a Corvair frt end but now it has a Speedway ifs.Working on body now will get back to frame later.I'll try to load a pic but I not computer savy

 

Mike, I don't doubt for a minute anything you've said. Quite frankly, nobody knows your hot rod better than you. The 700r4 has been in service longer than the 2004r and has a pretty good track record in my view. It's the trans of choice in my DD's and the oldest one has almost 300k miles on it with the only repair being replacement of a leaking rear seal. Yet, recent discussions with "Bowtie Overdrives," a leader in performance Chevy OD transmissions, sez their Level One 700r4 is basically a stock trans that is meant for mild street rods as well as stock cars and trucks and is good for up to 350hp. Their Level Two 700r4 will handle a steady diet of 450-500hp and 400-450 ft lbs of torque. I'm one who believes in being more safer than sorry as I really hate sitting on the side of the road in any vehicle, but especially in my hot rod. My comment above that "a stock 700r4 may be a bit weak for 435hp" was not intended to imply the 700r4 trans is a weak trans, but rather that having a more than stock 700r4 wud be a safety net to insure against any trans issues that might leave one sitting on the side of the road.

Those 400+ hp engines you two have are making my little 283/270hp engine feel inferior.

 

.....

BOWTIE.........I agree with you 100%, better stronger, a level 2 , is more appropriate to use with the 700R4 when running 450 hp ZZ383 type. When I bought that 700R4 in my coupe back in 1996, Bill at B & T trans ( local _) asked me what my intentions were for the trans. Said 95% driver and occasional thumping. Bill did some mods to trans to beef it up over stock he said. Unfortunately Bill got brain cancer and passed away shortly after. Exactly what he did I don't remember, said I did not want higher stall converter. Its a good trans. I would pick an after market performance supplier like ATI or go to the general for a brand new one that they make can handle high horsepower. Pretty soon we will be able to get those new multi 8 speeds , if they make adaptor for older sbc. ????

Better over built than under built !!!

mike lynch

 

MARK TAYLOR with the orange flamed 35 touring has a vette in the rear. Unfortunately I cannot find pictures of his frame showing the way he mounted it.. MARK , can you post some pictures of 35 tub rear end. The black one also has vette I believe. Searching my files for pictures.

I did find one picture of a C4 vette rear installed in a street rod, really nicely done.

ALSO found a picture of the magazine coverage of the BLACK auzzie tub with vette rear end

CORRECTION Marks orange 35 tub is running a jag. ................mike

 

you can see in the photo coverage magazine page the vette rear minus rear leaf spring and now has coil overs. Has a 4 bar setup on the sides. These rears need to stop the pinion from flipping by use of that center ladder bar or an UPPER pinion snubber/stop.

Maybe someboy reading this thread can post on if they know of a magazine featuring a CORVETTE REAR in a ford or Chevrolet chassis. Name of magazine, year and month published. Old copies can easily be found on ebay once you have the right info to search
mike lynch

 

How do you download pic and not have the file page so you can see pic on post.As I said not a computer person

 

when finished typing your words, go to UPLOAD A FILE, click on that. Find the picture you want stored in YOUR PICTURES, NOT FILES, double click on the picture and it will load. Have another view, same thing.

I have FOLDERS in " my pictures " where many many many pictures on a given subject are stored. Click on that folder and find the picture your after, double click.

Now just choose between the full screen size or the other , by clicking on the top notation for sizes.

Hit, POST REPLY and your done. Want to edit it, just hit edit and change what you need to and hit post reply again.

Its a very effective and simply way to do it.

OH , most of us are not computer geniuses either, we know what we know about how to do certain things and get by that way, I do anyway.

mike lynch

 

I have started putting this one in my 30 Buick coupe. It’s just tacked in place for now. I’m thinking I might move it about 1” forward after I figure out the body mounting. There is no wood left in this body to get any measurements from so right now it’s just guess work. I’m going to make a steel framework for the body and mount it before I finish the rear suspension installation.



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BIGGEORGE , not as well versed on corvette rears as I should be, but I think that's a 1968--1982 rear assembly by the aluminum webbed cross member. These are best installed between the frame rails. Trick is be able to narrow the aluminum rear cross member and utilize those bushings. The pinion snubber bracket can run from side to side and be bolted in for easy removal. Easier than the stock center snubber pictured.
I was helping to put one in a 1940 ford coupe 20 years ago, oh the shame, me and a ford........UGH

What is the cross member for right behind the vet rear and too the rear of that..........gas tank ? Can that be moved back. With vet cross member that can be eliminated .

Coil over shocks mounted in stock position , leaning inward , instead of the leaf spring , will be a big improvement. Because the rotors and calipers mount to the outside of the frame that causes clearance problems , that you do not get with a JAG IRS.

Boy those vet aluminum half shafts sure are beefy.

I would think that you want the body mounted and fenders in rear in place, that way you can make sure to have the wheels directly in the center of the rear fender opening.. Your going to need some very big rubber, 30" tall or more to fill that opening. Only time I ever saw a 30 buick done up was early 70's cover of street rodder I believe, it was a close coupled sedan owned by a woman in Michigan.

See if I can find the picture.

mike lynch

 

found the picture of the 1930 buick close coupled sedan/coupe believe it had a stock or tube non dropped axle......wow high boy of the month. Found the magazine on ebay. mike

 

Hi Mike
The rear assembly is from a 1986 vet.
I believe the owner of that Buick is the owner of Fatman fab who I bought my front suspension from.
The rear crossmembers are where the gas tank goes. I’m planing on keeping them where they are as I’m planing on keeping it full fendered with this gas tank in its original place. This is why I really have to put the body completely back together. It is a big beast with a 132” wheel base, 5 passenger coupe. It is powered by a 1954 chy 331 Hemi and a 700r4 trans.
George


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so 132 " wheelbase, so is it a 60 series or an 80-90 series buick . ??? mike

 

Your correct it’s a model 68.


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That’s the one. I believe I was told they used a ford econoline straight axle. So they could update the brakes.

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That big black Buick belonged to local rodders, larry and Edie Williams. Saw it many times growing up in the 70's. Brent Vandervort(Fatman Fab) has owned it for several years.

 

I went to all the NSRA nats 1970---1975 and it was so nice to be able to run into NON FORDS as we were called. The woman EDIE was who I remember about the car.

Did not know the buick had cowl vents on the side of the cowl, interesting. The firewall has many interesting details to it. Looks like the windshield rolls up a couple of inches into the top of windshield for venting.

Does the motor sit inside the hood of the buick with side panels on the hood.

I see the vet rear pulls close to the body, 20 inch wheels would be so right on this car to suit those big fender openings. As the pic I posted shows.

Post pictures of progress as you go

mike lynch

 

I'll try it

 

tried it and went to upload ,pics double click and it still went to attach files.Thanks for help need a 10yr old

 

Try making your pictures a smaller size. I have had the same problem. With the large format I use. When using my phone I email the pictures back to myself and chose the medium size when asked what size.


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I have also done what BIGGEORGE did, but sent the email to my computer then copied the picture into JPG format one of the options of formats you will see. It just goes into general pictures unless you create a folder and click and drag the picture into that.

I do not have a cell phone, so I do everything on my computer.

mike

 

No cell phone = smart!! I wish I never started using mine.


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