Technical Pin hole in oil pan....

The oil pan finally developed a pinhole leaking oil I have to find replacement what's a good remedy to fill the hole I was thinking maybe J-B Weld or two-part epoxy what you guys think

 

that would work, if you can get it clean. And stick some metal over the repair, too. A dime works well.

 

Thanks girl you're always a wealth of knowledge

 

I meant squirrel LOL

 

A penny would be cheaper and will fix a bigger hole.

 

My first deep pan was a stocker with a sheetmetal band welded in (stick welded by friend).
Could never get it to stop leaking around the weld, finally cleaned it real good and put a skim coat of Bondo on it, seemed to "fix" it.

 

When I was working at a Chrysler dealer parts in 2007 we had a sintheic resident silicone. I have used this to stop leaks on race cars and after 13 years is still not leaking.

 

A blind pop rivet. When we used to drill holes in torque converters and put them in the flush machine (back in the old days). When we were done we would use a blind pop rivet. Seals them up real nice. The first image below is a blind rivet, second image is a regular rivet.

 

How about low temp soft solder and map gas torch .

 

Marine tex works well also, two part, oil and gas resistant.

 

i have sealed pin holes with just a short screw. the "peanut" screws, used for steel stud framing, work well.

 

I have done this and it works. My oil pan had ben sitting on the ground and developed a bunch of pinholes. Since I didn't have the time or a place to work (we were in the middle of moving cross country) I used plumbers solder and a propane torch.
Make sure to drain and clean the pan, but you knew that.

 

I repaired a 331 hemi oil pan with JB weld after it "sprouted one" threw a rod, worked great.

 

Guys, is it a good idea to put a torch to an oil pan that is still on the engine?

 

You must not know how to solder and how low the temp is.

 

no, it's not a good idea....

 

I repaired the pan on my truck by brazing it. I drained oil and let it drip for a couple of days and then did my best to clean it further by spraying brake clean into the drain hole in the area of the leak.
I did read on here somewhere to remove the valve cover breathers, so I did that too.
After getting a decent amount of brazing rod melted on hole, I decided to add “ just a bit more”. All of a sudden,....BOOM! Smoke blew from the open drain hole and valve cover breather holes as well as the tail pipes. Thought someone fired a shotgun under the truck! I rolled out from under the truck with all my limbs and my hearing did eventually return. Next time, I think I will try something different, or at least use my air hose to slowly blow some air into engine while brazing to help remove explosive fumes. Just throwing this out as a warning.
The brazing did stop the leak though.

 

See post #16.

 

I used a small screw temporarily for 10 years once..

 

once I used the screw trick to get a (back of the block) freeze plug to stop leaking...in between time runs, and eliminations, at the drag strip. Pull the trans back just far enough to get it in, threw it back together, and made it to the first round in time.

then a few weeks later, I fixed it properly.

But JB weld lasts a long time, on repairs like this.

 

Chances are a pan full of oil will probably be less dangerous than an empty one full of fumes. Oil pans can sometimes be a pain to remove. I'd try epoxy before brazing one.

 

If it's a pin hole leak just clean with brake cleaner and use JB weld and be done with it, it's quick and simple.

 

I have used JB weld with a little piece of fiberglass cloth before. Drained the oil, let it drip for a day or so, cleaned with acetone and hand sanded with some 60 grit to give the JB some grip, squeegeed it into the cloth and onto the pan, then stuck it on there. Works fine so far, and kind of hard to see, unless you know what you're looking for.

 

On an ot 7.3 ford I used Jb weld and a quarter . Didn't mind throwing all the extra money around ,nothings too good for my fleet.

 

Flex-seal?

 

Por15 and some fiberglass cloth..13 yrs and leak has not returned..

 

Had a buddy put a rock into through his oil pan while he was off roading, took a hockey puck and a Bic lighter and welded it up. Canadian Patent Pending.

 

Look for a home heating oil tank sealer, looks like a big crayon and it works.

 

That would've been entertaining for your neighbours.

Use Argon/Co2 gas from a MIG welder to fill the crankcase while brazing.
It is an inert gas and won't combust.

I've done this to braze Oil Temp Sender bungs to an oil pan [you don't need to wait a couple of days]
we did jack the car on an angle so any residue oil flowed away from where we were welding.

 

Something of mine gets a hole in the pan, my way of fixing the hole is to drain the oil, clean the gasket material off the block and put a replacement back on. Engine work and cranks, rods, cam, rockers and lifters are more expensive. Anything less is a crap shoot. Maybe that's not the answer to stopping the leak but, if you stop the problem for good, it's worth the time down to get it right and be done with it.