Hot Rods Save of the day!!(single seater)

Yes its quite tight. I was just in it this a.m. seeing how high I could lift my leg before it hits the steering wheel. Trying to figure out how high I can make my brake pedal from the floor.

 

I've been working on brake and gas pedals. This is what I came up with for the gas pedal. Instead of pushing forward on the pedal you will have to push down on it, sort of like a sprint car. I will weld a tab on the side of the arm for a throttle cable and a big return spring
This what I started with. And this is what I ended up with.

 

Amazing build . Thank you for taking us along .

 

I got the brake pivot and pedal ruffed in. I used a junk 40 ford arm with a 40 dodge pickup pedal pad grafted to it. I still need to get a few clevises and a rod to attach the pedal to the master. The master will hang out under the seat so a guy will not see to much of it, that suits me since it is one of the only non vintage parts on the build.

 

I got the pedal assembly and master cylinder tied together.

 

Since my master cylinder is one of the only new style parts on the car it bugs new that you can see it.
I had an old 40 ford master cylinder laying around so I cut the top off it and put it over the new style master. The only way I can think about mounting it is the use some strong rare earth magnets between the caps. Any thoughts? I know its a fake out but once the bodys on maybe the new master will not jump out as much.

 

I'm typically not a fan of fake stuff, but that's pretty neat.

 

Is there something to keep the brake linkage from hinging in the middle? Seems like you might want a one piece push rod from the pedal arm to the master cylinder. Maybe I'm missing something here.

 

I wanted some adjustment in the linkage so that is why I used the yokes. it doesnt hinge and I didnt want to cut the pushrod arm. I guess I could make a small bracket to hold the push rod arm.

 

This is really interesting thread !! You will have a one cool Hot Rod when this is finished !!

 

Hope everyone has a great thanksgiving. Been working on putting together a firewall but my computer has been down so I can't upload any pictures, man it's always something.

 

Been messing around building a firewall. I used some leftover mandrel bent exhaust tubing cut in quarters for the radius of the setback. I bought a sheet of hot rolled 16 gauge by accident(should have got cold rolled) I used an old T shirt soaked with muratic acid to get rid of the mill scale.ATTACH=full]4105542[/ATTACH]

 

My buddy asked if i was going to put an interior in the car. My thought was its a race car it doesnt need an interior. I did dick around and made a homegrown dimple die panel. Its really not going to do much but be something to look at.

 

Which exhaust manifold do you have tht one that dumps between 5&6 or the one that dumps to the rest of six?? Or are you doindoyour own?

 

I sure like that dimple die set up.

 

I have one the one that dumps all the way to the rear.

 

Will it clear?

 

It should, if not it soon will!

 

Been messing around with my oxygen bottle/gas tank. Zip stripped the old zinc chromate and now wire wheeling all the nooks and crannys

 

Just checked out the last few pages after being away for awhile. Great progress on an awesome project!

 

Thanks, sure doesn't seem like I'm getting much done.

 

I am also admiring the rapidly evolving primative vintage step back in time you're creating.

Does that tank have baffles? I'm thinking not as Oxygen is a gas correct...

The kuku face above is because if it can be liquid I will have exposed my expertise in chemistry...

It is also interesting the segments seem to suggest the tanks were easily modifiable by adding sections to fit whatever application it was used for.

 

The tank will have to stand on end at a slight angle in the tail section. To make it fit I have to make a pocket at the bottom to clear the center section of the banjo rear end. I could easily add a baffle when the pocket gets cut in, although I don't know how much the fuel will slosh around with the tank in the upright position.

 

I also can't get on board with your current brake master rod. Having that extra hinge point in the middle is dangerous. A new rod with one clevis on the front end is best.

I will say I am watching all your other fabrications to steal ideas for my narrowed T project.

 

I understand but the rod is so short it doesn't bend in the middle. The push rod fits inside the master and keeps everything in alinement. I want to keep the stock mustang push rod in case I'm somewhere away from my shop and need to change out the master.

 

Rusty,
What if you tapped a close-fitting eye-bolt into the frame for that push rod to pass through? That way it couldn't move vertically and there would be no way for it to kink? Just a thought. I drew a quick and dirty picture.

 

I think that you'll find that once you have the hydraulic system filled, bled, and are applying force to the pedal, that you're linkage between the pedal and the M/C piston will deflect. Take the boot off of the M/C and look at how the rod isn't really held in alignment by the M/C.

You really should eliminate that middle clevis. It's not safe as is.

 

Thanks guys, we will get this thing figured out.

 

Great trip, the real stuff. LOVE the front cross member, I have a shell I'm cutting down from a '30s big truck, found in Vernalis! I'll also fabricate a front member to form around the shell.

Mine is stored all over my shop...
The '26 roadster cowl, from Fresno St. swap meet in '96;
frame rails, c/o John in Merced; '36 rear, c/o Tony in Fresno; Bought 5 New Old Stock '35 wire wheels, seller gave me the rearend with tubular driveshaft!
'37 tube front axle, $15, from an older gent at Turlock. (under a mess of Model A axles/wishbones) He gave me a perfect Model A frame, also!
'40 front end complete, for brakes, bones... $15, from the truck getting Mustang II!
'52 F-1 rear fenders, perfect 'tail'...but HATE to cut them up, looking for 'seconds'.
Mine will have the old Miller 90 look, tall tail, cut down sides...I have to narrow and flare the cowl to get that 'Big Car look'.
Thinking about a cool 4 banger, but unless I find something in a trade I'll have to use my old 221 flathead, and a '39 box, of which I have many.
Rather run something 'old', and inline. I have a much modified O/T 4 banger, disguised to look 'Offy-ish'...but it's really a 2 liter BMW with dual sidedraft Webers. RPM is amazing...ssshhh...May hang it in there just to 'warm it up'...

 

To everyone who was concerned about the brake linkage not passing muster, thanks for your opinions. I made a small tab that locates the bung and does not allow it to turn. I am still using both cleavis's but now when the rear cleavis is cinched down it cant turn. Thanks again guys.