Technical Removing Valve Covers Big Block Chevy

Hi again; newbie here. I've gotten it in my head that I wanted to add some color to the valve covers and air cleaner on this hot rod. I've read all about how to go about painting them. When I went to remove the valve covers, they're very snug against the block (not the block I know but I don't know what that part is called), so they didn't just pop off after removing the nuts. Question is, if I pry them off, are the odds that I will probably have to replace the valve cover gaskets? And is that more than a rookie can chew just to paint the covers? Any recommendations on where to get good quality gaskets for this setup? Lastly, there's a rubber gasket where the oil goes in; I d' have to remove that to paint; assume I have to buy new ones? See pics. Thanks!

 

The gaskets are likely stuck, probably because someone used some type of sealer on them when installing. Make sure you have ALL the nuts off, and maybe remove the studs, too, before gently prying the valve covers off. You will probably need new gaskets. I would just use normal Fel-Pro replacement gaskets.

The rubber grommets for the PCV valve and the breather cap can be removed, and if they are in good condition, you can re use them. But if they are old and brittle and crack, you need new ones.

The part under the valve cover is called the "cylinder head", or "head" for short.

Welcome to engines...they're fun! I like how you're asking about stuff you don't know about, that's smart.

 

Get some new gaskets before you begin. You will need them. Clean both surfaces good before you reinstall them. Good luck, you can do it, just put them back the way they came off.

 

Also, be careful about tightening the covers down when you reinstall. If too loose they can leak oil....but if you make them too tight the gaskets can become distorted causing them to leak. Often times, I'll go back and recheck valve cover, oil pan and trans pan gaskets after putting a few miles on them.
Mike

 

If the old gaskets are cork be sure to remove all the pieces that crumble and fall into the cylinder head around the rocker arms and valve springs. Just take your time, go slow. You will be fine. We all had to start sometime and somewhere.

 

I suggest that you get a set of valve cover hold down clamps. These are off my Chevy 327 and are for sale.
PM me if interested.
They spread out the pressure exerted by the bolts instead of concentrating it on the bolt hole.

 

Hold down clamps are for stamped sheet metal valve covers. Do not use them on cast aluminum valve covers.

 

Follow up dumb question; for shopping for the gasket, is that by the type of engine or by the type of valve cover? I guess also it’s not a super unusual engine.


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any 396, 427, or 454 Chevy engine from mid 60s to about 1990 will use the same gaskets.

The valve cover brand has nothing to do with which gaskets you get.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/.../chevrolet/bel-air?q=valve+cover+gasket&pos=0

for example

 

I am curious. Why not use them on alum covers? I had a set like 19Fordy posted laying around, so I painted them and used them. I thought they looked good against the polished aluminum.. Maybe I need to get them off of there?

 

I guess you can use them, but they don't do anything....

on stamped valve covers, they help spread the bolt load so the bolt hole won't deform. That deforming tends to make the gaskets leak.

 

Instead of prying them off ,give them a couple blows with a rubber hammer holding the cover with your free hand. I think your mill looks good as is.

 

this tread was too easy,this will start a discussion-which do you prefer,cork or rubber gaskets??I always use cork glued to the cover,usually get a couple of race seasons out of them that way

 

The only way to learn stuff like this is exactly how you are doing it. You ask your buddies for advise, then you get out there and do it.

Good luck, -Abone.

PS. I like cork gaskets and a super light coat of clear RTV gasket sealer on both sides. Opinions vary, but that is what I like.

 

I like cork gaskets, but FelPro quit making the normal replacement type for big block Chevys...you can still find some, but they generally aren't stocked by normal parts stores.

And I'll use any sealer except RTV.

 

Well; I like Fel-Pro Fel-CoPrene valve cover gaskets, and I glue them on both sides with Indianhead gasket goop. I like covers that don't leak and I don't care about reusing the gasket.

I've always had good luck with the $15 gaskets and found no need for the $30-$40 versions.

But; with gaskets as well most everything; you will find everybody has a favorite method they like and that works best for them.

 

Yes, gaskets will vary. here are just some from Summit Racing:
https://www.summitracing.com/search...43582&SortBy=DisplayPrice&SortOrder=Ascending

I like the rubber ones glued to the valve cover---you can usually reuse them. But the same can also be said for a decent cork gasket. What you glue them with varies. If you use RTV (Permatex Ultra Black or Grey would be most appropriate for oil conditions), more than likely you will have issues getting them off if you have to replace them. You can use just simple spray glue adhesive, example Napa part# BK 7651216. I have techs at work that use that all the time to glue gaskets.

I find studs will tend to want to try and pull the gasket off the cover if your trying to reuse it. I'm going out on a limb and willing to bet once you paint them they probably won't be coming off. And as mentioned, don't over tighten them. It's hard to explain, it's more of a feel when tightening unless you want to break out a torque wrench so you don't over tighten and then every bolt will be tightened the same. It's kind of overkill to do it that way, but i'm a nut job with torque wrenches, so I usually do. But my point is, over tightening can bend stamped steel valve covers and break ears off aluminum ones, so be careful.

As far as getting the old ones off, it really depends on what the previous owner used to seal those gaskets with. If you have removed all the nuts, see if there is a hole in the end of the studs that maybe you can use an allan wrench to unscrew them with as mentioned. It would be best to remove them if you can. A couple of decent blows on the sides of the cover with a rubber mallet may be enough to break them free, you may be able to use a small prybar or long screwdriver to pry under the lip carefully to break the seal. Just work carefully so as not to do damage to your parts.

Once you get them up, strait edge razor blades can help clean the surfaces, usually you can get a handle to put them in (around here we call the inspection sticker scrapers....basically it looks like a screw driver with an attachment on the end to put the razor blade in.

Such as this Lisle part# 52000



I know it seems nerve racking because you never have done it, but if you get stuck in the middle, Just ask like your doing.

 

I had a set on the race car that were on 3 engines. They were the felpro rubber with the metal in them. My alum covers were milled flat though, no ridge. You could have yours powder coated but I like the looks of yours the way they are.

 

Maybe I'm lazy, but I to think they look fine just the way they are. Way too much time and efffort to paint for so little a return.

Gary

 

I have the same valve covers on one of my big block, and I have had to use a rubber mallet to break the contact between the valve cover and the gasket. When they come free this way, the gasket is normally preserved.
For tightening, I believe that less is more. I tighten the screws with a screwdriver or nut driver so as not to over torque them. After the first warmup, I check for leaks, and if I find any, I only tighten the screws in the area of the leak. I believe, that with gaskets that have a lot of depth, over tightening is a bigger problem than under tightening. This technique has worked excellently for me over the years.
Bob

 

Originally used on Corvairs. Right, Jim?

 

I use cork Fel Pro's. I got them at Rockauto.com pretty cheap. I always spray an adhesive like loctite super tack on the valve cover side only. That holds them in place so when you flip them over to mount on the head you are not fighting with them falling out (gravity sucks).

Tap them with a rubber mallet or lightly pry on them to break the seal between the head and the valve cover. Nice looking engine you have there. I would use a thin putty knife first.

 

Cork gaskets are fine, but I do like the cork type with rubber bits impregnated into the cork, they seem to retain some elasticity and last longer than the plain cork gaskets. Either way, my preference is to use Gasgacinch to glue them to the cover. Love Gasgcinch, great stuff! Apply the stuff to both the gasket and the part and let it set up, get tacky, then put them together. The gasket will then stay in place while you assemble the covers to the heads. As someone else posted, don't over tighten! Just get them nice a snug, and recheck them later after the engine has warmed up and cooled down a few cycles. Then periodically after that.

One of the first mistakes I made getting started turning wrenches was helping my dad install new valve cover gaskets on the family station wagon. I wrenched down a little too hard and "Snap"! broke one of the bolts off. Damn! My dad was pissed, he scolded me, "I said snug!" Then I learned how to drill out and remove a broken bolt.

http://gasgacinch.com/

 

Note the little tabs around the outside that would seat in the stamped steel covers. Useful to feel if the gasket is seated properly at the back of the head. Another vote for sealing it only to the cover. Remember there are 7 fasteners per cover on a BBC

 

I like the extra thick cork with spray on gasket adhesive on the valve cover side only, as you are aware by now everyone has their own preference, but this is just what I prefer.

https://www.skipwhiteperformance.co...valve-cover-gaskets-7485-c-extra-thick_87702/

What color do you want to paint them ?

 

Probably ought to invest in these:
https://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-heavy-duty-pry-bar-set-1654.html

 

Thanks!!


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Well, that’s just a great product name. Must get it.


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Well, the frame is painted this intense blue so I was gonna match that. Hope I’m not ‘prettyfying it’ too much. We’re also having the bomber seats reupholstered just so it’s a little less messy.


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Love HF. will get these. Thanks!!


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