The one I linked is brand new GM made, has a 3 year warrantee, and there is not one part that needs "machining" from your old donor parts. I have way more time that spare big money, but maybe you can earn more at your day job to justify the $4100 one ...so my input is just my view, from my background. If I read between your lines, you want a complete engine that a local car shop can drop in for you...if so, that won't be a 4 to 8 hour labor bill, trust in that. Be careful on booking a shop as to honest estimates of everything like hoses, fluids, exhaust & linkage fiddling, possible wiring changes, Torque converter seal, whatever else they suggest. Stuff adds up so fast at over $100 per hour or more. .
Brother, I know. This is why I was seeing how long I can go as is. Lol. Your points are valid and I have taken all that into consideration. Yes, my mistake on machining old parts to transfer over. If I can manage to get a block like you linked at that cost, I may just do that. The two shops Ive spoken with estimated low 10 hours + fluids etc high was 20-25 hours + fluids etc. This why Im looking for the most complete crate giving me a larger window to work in for unforeseen or unexpected “fixes” these shops may find. I have never done an engine swap nor have I built an engine from your linked starting point. I’d love to learn to do it. I’m a bit green at this as you can tell. but I’m willing to learn and Im taken all points into consideration before dropping that much money. If I dont have to spend $4k I’ll be all over it. Maybe I’m trying to get an “easy” way out because of my lack of experience with a crate. I’m going to pay no matter which route I take.
"Its mainly a weekend round the block a few times cruiser. and if I get up early enough take my kids to school in. Maybe 400-500 miles a year." So that's about 1-1/2 miles a day... is the school two blocks away?
Lol. Roughly, school is about 5 miles away. Id a wager a “cruise” is maybe 10-30 miles then back to the garage. At most 2 times a week. If I can prolong rebuild or replacement for as long as possible that would be great. I guess probably given my comment, drive miles could be higher, to roughly 1000miles a year. 400 did seem low.
yes, you can get into trouble doing a long block swap, and start adding non stock stuff. My son got an "abandoned project" 83 K10 Silverado loaded short fleet low mile Texas truck that the elderly owner bought a re-machined souped up 350 "30-over" longblock to replace the good 305. He bought the wrong chrome timing cover and the timing tab was in a way different location, so it would not fire up.. Then he kept buying more & more parts like new HEI, and a "Holley Factory Reman" Quadrajet to try that, but left out the large vacuum fitting on the back of that carb...so the more he spent, the worse it became. Then it sat for 20 years total. The grandkids got it from the estate and they failed to figure it out. I have no idea why he did not get a shop to look at it back then. we still have it indoor storage. It runs sweet now but needs some cosmetics. . .
It’s too bad that you are not around Southwestern Illinois, I would be glad to help you rebuild or replace your engine. BTW, I’m the one who suggested the 10067353 engine, I have one and it’s been great since the day it came out of the crate. I got lucky, my wife worked for the Chevy dealer I got it from. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
That is no where enough miles to justify a new engine, let alone $4100.00 +, in my opinion. Adam401 , post 22, beat me too it. That is exactly what I would do. First, though, I would clean the plug and SEE how long before it fouls. Bet cleaning once a year at the mileage you indicate. Do a lot of cleaning for $4100. I have been around that block a time or two. Ben
In Arizona, I would run straight 50 weight and use the anti-fouler. I drove a tow truck for someone and that engine was tired, but it was quite dependable in spite of the problems it had. The #8 plug is in the back of the engine, make sure the oil return passage in the corner of the head is open. Even with that, oil tends to collect there.
Exactly my plan. Run it and track the miles until fouling. And yes, $4100 buys a ton of spark plugs. This is why I came here to pose this question. I tend to get a bit antsy and just say f$$& it, get the engine. Sell the old one or part it out. In your opinion lets say it fouls after 5 miles or so, what would be a decent -miles to foul- or change the engine ratio? assuming I have the money to get the engine. Hopefully I posed that question properly?
Plug swap gets old. Give the spark plug extender a try on that one cylinder. It worked on my 350 on two cylinders, and mine is around town driving only, so that makes plugs more likely to get faster oil build up. I also run two extenders on my 1952 gas crawler/loader with very good results. both of these engines would foul plugs far too often before I used the extenders. I have too much to do, so I don't have time for engine repairs right now. . .
With out knowing the frequency that op's said plug goes out how can an extender be justified? I'd prefer a fresh plug over plug extender first. In other words baseline before jumping to conclusion.
I've driven junk with extenders for thousands of miles. Nice thing is you won't have anybody tailgating you lol..
Well, he said he drives almost NO miles to speak of, and the plug looks that bad? Why not run an extender? It works in most cases, does not affect anything on my truck, or my dozer..... and my truck never did smoke while running down the road. The dozer does smoke at times, and still has not fouled the extenders out. Why not spend a couple of $, instead of swapping plugs often...and yes it will be often if it looks that built up since the plugs were said to be new this spring...and a hotter plug won't help either by looking at the build up it has.
Called and talked my mechanic friend who checked the engine after i bought it. Said it fouls pretty quickly. As in they put a new plugs in and test drove it around the block and it already fouled to the point they replaced the spark plug before I picked it up. Second pic is from his work order. I’ve been going to these guys for a while. Anytime I got stuck on a repair they fixed it no problem. I usually do most myself, but this is getting out of my wheelhouse. Tearing an engine down and rebuilding First pic is from the guy I got it from, his mechanics repair for the oil issue. So it would appear it wasnt the valve stems but the piston rings causing the issue. I will add that my mechanic was abit confused how the previous shop misdiagnosed it so badly. But from what I gather it could have been the valve stems, maybe? Now, wouldn't a leak down test show if it were a piston ring(s) or valve stems issue? Welp, now its my issue, lucky me.
In Arizona, I'd run 40 weight racing oil. Valvoline racing oil used to be an ashless oil. I don't know if VR1 still is. A thicker oil won't get through the rings like thinner oils do.
I will change the oil and get a non-Fouler/extender next week. Probably a rookie question, (which I am) where does that oil go when it gets past piston ring?
It gets burned. and fouls plugs in the process . The engine needs rebuilt, or replaced. Thats the reality of it.
So this what I gather until I can fox this issue permanently. 20w-50 oil ( do I need to run the racing version VR1 or is Castrol or whatever brand 20w-50 ok?) Anti-Fouler See how it goes.
Burned in the combustion chamber and then out the exhaust,...but the short trips with cooler engine temps does not burn it up completely, so it fouls the plug faster. The extender just keeps the electrode and tip farther away (hiding) from the stream of oil laced combustion byproducts If that motor is really whipped like my 350 in my 1966K20, the oil pressure gauge will read very, very low at the lowest idle, (when fully hot, at stop light, in Drive). I can actually hear my main bearing wear "thump" at those very low idles. But it still keeps going, even pulling loaded car trailer, because the oil pressure comes right back up at speed. I may do a motor someday ..but I know it won't blow up at this point. .
Seems that way. It's hard doing 3 way consults (mechanic, owner, then us) some things just get lost in translation. I'll add this but it's like they say, "opinions are like a** holes, everyone has one". I've been in op's shoe's and I've done rings to one hole and closed it back up and ran it. But I'm not op in the sense I'm the one doing all the leg work and repair. Best of luck @83Squarebody and keep us informed how things transpire.
Don't run a multi grade oil. Run a straight weight, either 40 or 50 not 20w-50. An ashless or low ash oil will burn without fouling plugs which is why I suggested racing oil.
^^^^^ Agree, that would be a better choice if Valvoline Racing straight weight oil can easily be had. I kept a very very tired L6 194 in a 64 Chevelle I had alive. It was so tired that leaving it in gear (manual 3 speed) would hardly hold it while parked. Now that's tired!
When I bought my '65 Dart wagon, it had a tired 170 slant six. It WOULD roll down a slight embankment while parked in gear. Needless to say, I bought a used 225 and swapped it immediately, but the 170 seemed to run OK. I wonder if the valves were just adjusted tight...
This? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vlv-vv229/ And this https://www.amazon.com/Valvoline-SAE-VR1-Racing-Motor/dp/B00DJ4FOQ4
30 40 50 all the same price. I went full bore (photo). Keep in mind it cost more and with a bad cylinder your likely going to wash out your oil with gasoline that has not burned. In other words you'll be thinning your oil and frequent changes will likely be necessary. Maybe shop around for some straight 40 or a 50 (walmart?) that isn't racing oil?
As has been said run a hotter plug, I would run the hottest one available and run the gap as wide as the system could stand. Also advance your timing, recurve it like a racing engine. These three things will prolong the life of the plug in the bad cylinder. Also keep idling to a minimum. As for racing oil in a street car, maybe, maybe not. I haven’t checked on racing oil lately, it may have changed, but... Many years ago, tryed to raise my oil pressure in my 289 by changing to straight 40 W Valvoline Racing oil. My pressure did come up, but shortly after I added the racing oil, my car started drinking oil. Had to tear it down and found the oil ring had become clogged with some sort of grey crap. It was soft, kinda gooey, by none the less able to clog up the oil ring, causing massive oil consumption. Talked to some of the gurus of that time ( no internet then) they told me that was because I used racing oil in a street engine. It’s designed for high rpm and has no detergent. Like I mentioned, it may be different today. Just my experiences back when Moby Dick was a guppy. Bones
The Jalopy Journal
