I’m working on the front end of my 30 Model a coupe and I want to run split bones. Someone told me not to use the originals because they are too short. Is there any truth to this? If so which bones should I be looking for? Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
There are plenty of hot rods out there running around with split Model A wishbones. The longer ones that a lot of people like to use are '32-'34, though later than that can work, also.
I have both that are mentioned above and yes, the Model A bones are shorter by about 8-9" but that could be that when mine were split they took off too much material.
I'm not sure if the Model A bones won't work just as well as the longer 32 -34 bones but I believe the longer bones does have more visual appeal. HRP
When I did the chassis for Hot-Rod Roadsters 29 highboy with deuce rails many years ago I used split A bones and he drove the car 20,000+ miles while he had it with no problems. Used Vega steering on it. It looked good.
The thing you need to think about is what type of steering you are going to use and the placement of the box. That is where the length of the split bones comes into play. So answer that question first, then we can give you counsel. r Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Alright,.... Stock Model A bones have a much lower mounting point for the original ball joint,... So when you split them and mount them to the side of the frame,... You re-adjust the caster in a negitive direction,. The reason most people use 1932 and up bones to split, Is because of the caster built into the wishbones at the wrist. You can use split "A-bones" just make sure you have at least 6 degrees of caster.....
^^^^^ So, unless you pie cut them; the rear pivots will be hanging at an unappealing distance below the frame.
I used 37-41 bones on mine. The opening is correct for a Model A axle and the caster came out close to what I wanted without pie cutting. And yes, they are longer.
I used 33 bones on my 34 coupe. Was able to mount the other end of the bones to the side of the frame rail and still preserve 7 degrees caster. I used model A bones on my 33 pickup and had to mount the ends of the bones about 4 inches below the frame rail to get acceptable caster...with brackets.
so I’ve got a chance to pick up these 32 bones for $200 and they are 2 hours from my house. Would they be worth it, or should I just split my A bones? Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
What axle are you using? Those front "yokes" won't fit a Model A axle, but they will fit 32-36 Ford made axles. .
Id pay the 200 for the 32 bones myself if they were straight and relatively pit free. I don't think its at all necessary for what your doing but I'm not a fan of the look of split model A bones. That being said I wouldn't be at all worried about model a wishbone from A functionality standpoint. 40 type wishbones sell cheap. Its easy to trim the spring perch off them so that's an option too.
The graceful 'drop' of the '46-'48 bones has gained wide appeal...the 'sweep' is indeniable! Actually, any of the 'front spring' type is desirable, for their length and 'automatically acrued' caster... if one is willing to do some 'pruning' and reshaping of the yokes.
Mike’s right, and by reshaping he means reducing the thickness of the top yoke, when that is done you need to also re-machine the 60* countersink for the spring perch. Aftermarket perches are longer and I guess they would work without the above steps but that would raise the front of the frame a bit.
One other thought is using the later wishbone tubes with the early ends. I've done this including building a non split wishbone with mixed match parts. There s pictures of one I did in my photo albums in my profile. Its was super easy if you weld
I used a 35 axle that I dropped, then 46-46 wishbone tubes, but grafted onto 35 trimmed "spring ahead" yokes ...that setup was to clear the tie-rod and center link. Worked slick. And I tuck the bones under the chassis as much as possible for several reasons, and those stepped tubes on 46-48 look like they were made for that. .
Pretty easy to mill the bosses on an "A" axle to 2"; and the side profile of '32-'34 bones have about the best look of all Henry's wishbones. I would get good pictures and a measurement of the overall length, if you consider them; seen a lot of deuce-'34 wishbones overly shortened, bowed, notched for filter clearance, or in other unimaginable ways mangled in a previous life.
^^^^ The Model A thru '34 wishbone yokes need not be as heavy as they don't support the weight of car the way the '35 up wishbones do with their integral spring perches.
The rear mounted position of the bones should be as close in line vertically with your drag link on your steering box as possible unless you are using a Bega box (not the case here since you stated the use of an F1 box). The proper positioning of these two relative point helps decrease any bump steer. r Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
I also have a wishbone that came with a front end I bought for the juice brakes. The problem is that one of the holes is slightly malfunctioned where someone cut the castle nut off. Can this area be repaired? Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
These are not my bones this is just for demonstration. The place where the red circle is where it’s messed up. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
35-48 wishbones work very well if you want to put tie rod under or use bolt on steering arms , it’s a bit harder to stretch the steering arms under 28-34 bones
Here's what all this boils down too. If you're going to build a car you need to be able to tell if a part is structurally sound for its application. That has nothing to do with part interchange knowledge or history of hot rod knowledge. It has to do with knowing how to build a car from parts. Knowing what a parts function is and knowing what the stresses on it are. I'm not an engineer. I'm not particularly smart but I know what the parts I'm putting together do. I know what their function is. If you have some wishbone s you bought that are damaged and you are questioning that damage then fix them. Someone might tell you they're fine as is but if you're questioning them then fix it. If you can't fix a damaged wishbone then you need to start acquiring the skill to be able to do so. Building a car requires a lot of metal work. You'll be fine. Your car will be rad. Good luck
Hard to say without seeing the extent of the damage; but if is a couple torch bites, chisel gouges, or something similar; it is fixable. I've filled in the marks with weld and blended them into the taper with a carbide burr. If the damage is more severe, the taper could be built up with TIG weld and machined with a counter sink; but at that point (if you have to pay someone) it may not be worthwhile to repair.
The bad spot is just a little torch bite, nothing severe. The ends look like cast, that’s why I was concerned with welding them. I split them tonight and when I went to mount them on my axle, I noticed that ‘30 spring perch is shorter than the ‘37 and doesn’t go all the way through. The 37 spring is a front mount and my ‘30 is a top mount. Does somebody sell a longer perch for this issue? Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
^^^ The ends are steel forgings. Most aftermarket places sell longer perch bolts; if you need the shock mounts you will have to cut them off your A perch bolts. All the aftermarket perches are 3/4" bore, if you are using A shackles, you will need to get new bushings, too.
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