Projects ONE PIECE AT A TIME ('47 FORD COUPE)

I really need to look into getting a truck

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Or a trailer. I imagine getting that axle assembly up there wasn't the easiest thing you've ever done

 

I don't do so good with backing trailer up, and working on anything on that Nissan takes way to long, and is packed in there way to tight. It took me an entire afternoon to change one spark plug.

 

I guess you'd be reluctant to drive something like this then. Backing just takes practice and the longer the trailer the easier to back

 

This looks better got some help from a hamber friend getting the wishbone apart and the rest of the axel.
He also offered to help make a trans plate if anyone has dimensions for this plate that would be helpful

Went to a local cruise talked to an old timers about his 41 Merc hot rod. Got some good ideas.


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Need a lil math help. So I'm drawing up my floor boards on the computer at work, and was wondering how do I take into account size change of the blank after rolling the beads?

 

I believe if you pre stretch the area where you're going to roll the beads the overall dimension should not change. You go about doing that by basically hammering it on dolly. This also gives you a flat panel when finished, not all waffly. No practical experience but this is how I understand it.

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Without tossing in a lot of neutral-axis formulas at you, leave the outside overall dimensions a little on the fat side, final trim before welding them in. If the beads are stiffeners, it shouldn't impact the blank dimensions.

 

Thanks for the help fellas.

 

So I've been doing some reverse engineering at work for the rocker boxes, and I'm wondering with the floorboards as flat as they are, how do they get welded up to the rocker box in the middle when it has such a big radius on the top?

 

I'm impressed. A newby building a car (a cool one even) on some plywood in the yard.
Looking good so far. really burn those frame welds in. Unless you get it hot enough to blow a hole through (probably cant) don't worry about too much penetration.

Keep on at it!

 

Sometimes ya gotta play the cards life deals ya until something changes.

I got the running board of tonight and I was kind of hoping to re use the aluminum running boards but they look pretty brittle by the holes

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I just checked on the photos of where my floor attaches to the rocker boxes and mine all match up except where I didn't make the floor panel wide enough, just required a narrow section to be added. but then I did make my own rocker boxes.
http://aussierodding.altervista.org/My Hot Rods/46.Convertible.19.html

 

So got some square tubing today for bracing the body for removing the floor (from the toe pan to just before the rear seat riser) will bracing the door jambs and the pillars across the body be sufficient? Should I do any bracing to the rear at all? Should I leave the doors in or can I take them out?

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It's always better to brace it more than needed than to brace it less than should have been done!

 

You generally need the doors on to set the rocker gaps though some tack weld them shut to add rigidity. A friend is using allthread and turnbuckles so he can push and pull the body square during floor replacement.

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I thought about the turnbuckle thing to I'm sure I could rig something up to work with the square tubing that i got.

 

I got the turnbuckles...so does anyone have any pearls of wisdom before I start hacking away this weekend speak now before I bugger anything up to bad.

 

Take lots of pics

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Wisdom????….Make sure you put the body back on the frame first. AND, I have your trans. mount fab`d up for you. JB

 

Haven't heard form you in a while, thought you went into hibernation early

 

I got the spring leaves cleaned up a little and the two bottom main leafs have a bit of pitting on them. Can they be used for reverseing the spring eyes?

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That crusty looking rot is right where you want to reverse the eye...….I think maybe having either A-B Spring or State Spring ( On S. Division) make a new main leaf with reversed eyes would be a wiser choice.

 

Does anyone have the instructions for the Chassis Engineering transmission plate. I reverse engineered my own and need to know how far back it mounts, and because the bottom of the x-member was replaced I don't have anything to reference off of that.

 

awesome build! im starting on a 47 long door myself. this is the first 47 ford thread ive found thats current, i follow along!

 

CE at one time had most of the instructions as pdf files, check with Heidts who bought them out, possibly they could email you one.

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Got my new dropped main, and u-bolts back today.
I'm using the speedway dropped crossmember which is 2.75" wide the ID of the u-bolts they made is about 2.875" in the threaded area and almost 3.00" above that. I'm going to make the plates for the U-bolts should I make the hole spacing closer to the size of the of the crossmember to tighten things up a little?

 

To much daylight for my liking

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Went to work this morning and cut off the ends to leaf #2 went to tractor supply got some paint and hardware

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Do you not need room for the spring PLUS the crossmember to clamp the whole thing together? Looks close if that is the case.