I haven't posted in a while because my 58 driver is falling apart. Found this while doing the front suspension. Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Brazed it up and honed it out. Done! Til it breaks again. Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
My homemade spring spreader wasn't as strong as I thought it would be. Oops! Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Homemade spring spreader buckled and caused shackle destruction. But, I finally got the bones split. Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I finally had a few minutes to mock it up and straighten the knuckles. I was pretty nervous, but hell, even glowing it takes a lot of force to twist. Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
It looks good to me and I've done this a couple of times. Check to ensure the wishbone shackle hole is tipped to match the spring in the vertical plane also. There might be a small caster change ( increase).
I was thinking about this. Right now they appear tipped down, but I'll have to get the axle at a normal height to check. Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Dumb question: I'm guessing I need to adjust the rod ends to determine parallelism with the spring. Drive side seems closer than passenger with the same amount of threads showing. Passenger side seems reasonably close to parallel. Can I hook the spring up first, then adjust the rod ends? Or is the spring not necessarily square? Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The spring is not necessarily square. The first check would be to check wheelbase on each side; if it is the same, then your probably good unless the rear end is not square in the chassis. Another measure would be from the rivet where the center brace (the one that was damaged on your car) fastens to the bottom lip of the frame rail to the opposite side kingpin. Compare to the same measurement on the other side. Yes, hook up the spring first.
10/4. I was worried that if my knuckle bends weren't square enough, then ball joint adjustment would only amplify that. But I suppose the bushings will compensate fore slight deviations. Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The more I play with the transverse setup, the more I think Henry had it way wrong. Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Millions of Ford cars and trucks drove many millions of safe miles with their transverse spring setups. If such setups are set up correctly today, they will work as well or better than those designed and built by Ford years ago. The problem lies with people who set them up incorrectly ! Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
That's probably true. I do heavy mechanics and parallel leafs make so much sense to me. I'm sure I'm over thinking this. But, hey! I'm a first timer. This car is gonna be badass! Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
If the bends aren’t parallel to the spring eyes, it will put the shackles in a bind. If the shackles go together pretty easily, you’re probably ok. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
They're pretty parallel right now, but adjusting the rod ends will throw that off very slightly. Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
It isn't the most beautiful patch. I blame Adolf Coors. Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Put the spring on first, then attach the split wishbone ends. You can do this by hand. There is so much leverage with those long wishbones it's not hard. Also, why does that spring have a stock eye? You'll get another inch of drop with a reversed eye main leaf.
If you want to get another inch drop, a spring shop will reverse that spring, or you can do it yourself, there are tech threads here on it. I would recommend it, the axle isn't enough drop in my opinion. STANCE IS EVERYTHING! EDIT: To give you an idea, a spring shop charged me $50 to reverse the eyes of the main leaf, remove a few leaves and install a spacer, so pretty cheap.
This one is set up with the drop axle and 2 leafs removed. Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Quick update. Finished drilling for my engine mouns and started on the cylinder heads. 461 castings with 1.94 valves, but the chambers should be good for an extra point of compression. Unfortunately the guides need to be done. So off to the machine shop. Then engine assembly finally begins!!!!!!!! Holy smokes I can almost taste it. Also got the broken valve cover bolt out. Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Machine shop has everything. I decided to do the mag, surface, valve job, guides, and hot tank for about $275. The machinist asked why I thought 461 heads in a 39 ford were "period correct". Haha. He didn't get it. Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Are front shock kits worth the price. Original plan was to back to knee actions. But I need new anyway, so...... What say you all? Best ones available? Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
YES! Tube shocks make a big difference. I used a Chassis Engineering tube shock kit, and sway bar. I also used a Drake tube shock and sway bar kit for the rear. My car rode and drove great. You still have the banjo rear? If not, disregard the Drake kit.
Chassis eng is now Heidts and the website is atrocious. I'm considering posies or PandJs. My rear is a TCI kit with a bronco 9. Banjo is stored for a rainy day Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I have Chassis Engineering shocks and sway bar in front on my avatar with their springs, shocks and sway bar in the rear. I have had the same combo on another 40 years ago and it was also very good. My 41 truck has the sway bar and shocks in the rear (Drakes) with buggy spring. It also works great. I think it’s well worth the money. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
The Jalopy Journal
