Register now to get rid of these ads!

Technical Model A Engine - 39 Transmission

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Lilred36, Aug 20, 2018.

  1. Lilred36
    Joined: Sep 3, 2014
    Posts: 67

    Lilred36
    Member

    Maybe this has been covered before and I jus couldn't find it but, can a '39 Ford transmission bolt up to a stock model A Ford without, or limited modification?

    Sent from my XT1650 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  2. dirtball51
    Joined: Apr 3, 2017
    Posts: 3

    dirtball51

    No it won't. You have to run a adapter Clings aftermarket products carries them. Have one on my model a.


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    LOU WELLS and mctim64 like this.
  3. The kits sold for this conversion also include a bracket to mount the pedals and wishbone. The contact for Clings is clingsaftermarket.com, (480) 777-1202 A direct link to what you looking for: http://clingsaftermarket.com/addtocart.asp?prod=3000 You still need to mount your master cylinder if you are running hydraulic brakes. I would suggest looking into the heavy duty battery box that incorporates a master cylinder mount. It would be good to post on fordbarn asking who makes the best kits.

    For the time and money involved making the change I would just put up with the Model A transmission.

    Charlie Stephens
     
    LOU WELLS likes this.
  4. V8 trans, weather it is a '39 or earlier on a Model A it a wonderful thing. I have three of them now all using the Clings kit. I also have a partial kit to mount V8 trans along with a V8 engine in one Model A. It's nice to have syncros on the top two gears but the big deal is the split between ratios. More even on the V8 trans as opposed to the A trans. Clings also makes a setup to mount a master cylinder if you go with "juice" brakes.
     
    dwollam likes this.

  5. 51 mercules
    Joined: Nov 29, 2008
    Posts: 3,868

    51 mercules
    Member

    I bought the Clings Kit, haven't installed it yet.
     
  6. ClarkH
    Joined: Jul 21, 2010
    Posts: 1,412

    ClarkH
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    A little tip on the conversion kits: You also need a V-8 universal joint housing (held together with 4 bolts, whereas the A housing has 6 bolts). This does not come with the kit. So if you don't already have one attached to the back of the '39 trans you intend to use, get one before you tear everything apart. Ask me how I learned this...:oops:
     
    LOU WELLS and Lilred36 like this.
  7. Kiwi 4d
    Joined: Sep 16, 2006
    Posts: 3,564

    Kiwi 4d
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Ok ,so you need the V8 universal joint housing etc. Now if the A motor is mounted at front and rear , do you still need the float a motor mount at the universal joint , as the model A float a motor mount wont fit the V8 universal joint cup ??
     
  8. ClarkH
    Joined: Jul 21, 2010
    Posts: 1,412

    ClarkH
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Hey @Kiwi 4d - The Model A float-a-motor rear trans mount will NOT fit the V-8 universal joint housing. I tried like crazy to find one that fits (I know they exist because a buddy has one), but it appears they are not made anymore. I wound up making my own, as seen here (float-a-motor on right and my crude but effective version on the left). trans-brackets.jpg
    Here it is installed, although you really can't see much:
    trans-bracket installed.jpg
    It's not really a mount. More of a support/stop to keep the trans from dipping down. I'm not an expert, but I think it's primary purpose is to prevent clutch chatter.
     
    Last edited: Aug 21, 2018
    -Brent- likes this.
  9. Lilred36
    Joined: Sep 3, 2014
    Posts: 67

    Lilred36
    Member

    That's pretty slick, but I intend to keep the original solid mounts...for now.

    Sent from my XT1650 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  10. Lilred36
    Joined: Sep 3, 2014
    Posts: 67

    Lilred36
    Member

    I should start looking then, what did they come on originally? Thank for the tip.

    Sent from my XT1650 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  11. ClarkH
    Joined: Jul 21, 2010
    Posts: 1,412

    ClarkH
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I think they're the same, 1932-1948. Lots of them on eBay, used and inexpensive repop.
     
  12. Is it less work to put in a “B” trans stuffed with later gears? I know you still have to figure out pedals and modify the pan.
     
  13. Lilred36
    Joined: Sep 3, 2014
    Posts: 67

    Lilred36
    Member

    But will the B trans work with a flathead later on?

    Sent from my XT1650 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  14. No. I guess it won’t. I missed that part of the plan! Sorry!
     
  15. The gears and shifter will work but the case is different between a B and a V8.

    Charlie Stephens
     
    LOU WELLS likes this.
  16. Lilred36
    Joined: Sep 3, 2014
    Posts: 67

    Lilred36
    Member

    Assuming so, which is why I'd run the '39 with the Clings adapter until upgrading to a flathead...if I ever do.

    Sent from my XT1650 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  17. received_10212443796558604.jpeg Running a clings adapter with a 35 trans. Both purchased from hamb/ford barn. The Clings kit didn't come with instructions so I missed the part about drilling through the bottom of the bellhousing for the wishbone bracket. Out with the rear end and trans!
     
    Jet96, Lil'Alb, 97 and 3 others like this.
  18. I have a '38 V8 trans with late '39 gears in my '29, what an improvement! As mentioned, easier shifting and better gear ratio's. The Cling's adapter made it a easy upgrade.

    77 - 1939 V8 transmission with Clings adapter.jpg 103.JPG 105.JPG 106.JPG 107.JPG
     
    Montana1 and Hamtown Al like this.
  19. Lilred36
    Joined: Sep 3, 2014
    Posts: 67

    Lilred36
    Member

    Burnzy37 and 1stGrumpy, that's looks like what I'm looking for. All good information. Really nice looking setup Burnzy37, nice motor and intake!
     
    1stGrumpy and burnzy37 like this.
  20. You'll need a B flywheel housing too and you'll need to make your own side mounts as no one makes them anymore. Also don't forget the wishbone mount
     
    cactus1 likes this.
  21. Lilred36
    Joined: Sep 3, 2014
    Posts: 67

    Lilred36
    Member

    Tiny, which is why, to me, the Cling's setup makes more sense.
     
  22. I'm not going to argue with you on that.
     
  23. fordcragar
    Joined: Dec 28, 2005
    Posts: 3,198

    fordcragar
    Member
    from Yakima WA.

    Unless you have access to all of the B parts and have the time to put it together. Not only do you need the B flywheel housing, but the lower housing too; which is part of the B oil pan. The B pan won't work on the Model A engine without modification. So if you have the money for the adapter, that is the fastest,easiest way to go.
     
  24. Any pics of the wishbone mount with radius ball and cups attached? Still trying to figure that part out! Are you using original caps and rubber ball?
    Thanks, burnzy
     

  25. burnzy...
    Sorry, I never thought to get any pictures of the wishbone attached. Here's the link to Clings, good people and very helpful, www.clingsaftermaket.com
    The mount is a simple install, mounts to 2 of the lower adapter bolts and a hole needs to be drilled in the bottom of the bellhousing. I used the original style caps but not the rubber ball.
    Grumpy..
     
  26. I forgot about the lower half. I think it would be a neat way to go. Probably the way it was done "back in the day" before adapters. I've collected everything to do it this way but as many have said the Clings adapter is way easier
     
    cactus1 likes this.
  27. ClarkH
    Joined: Jul 21, 2010
    Posts: 1,412

    ClarkH
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    They were making these conversion kits long before Clings. Mine is an old Ansen setup:
    Ansen adaptor.jpg
    If you read the history on the Clings site, he says he was inspired to create his kit years ago after buying an exisiting kit and discovering how poorly engineered it was. I don't know what brand he was comparing, but I'm here to tell you he was right. My adaptor itself is the cat's pajamas, all polished up with the nice Ansen Automotive lettering. But I had to grind nearly half an inch of meat out of the inside to make room for the starter. And the replacement support for the pedals is way too frail. Even after I added a stiffener, it still deflects half an inch each time I depress the clutch. And there's no back-stop provision on it for the brake pedal--I crafted a stop on the floor.

    I just bought a Clings pedal support bracket (they also sell their kit parts separately). It's a very well-made piece and is going into my car this winter.
     
    1stGrumpy and cactus1 like this.
  28. The kit I bought off the hamb contained the original adapter but all the bracket pieces are homemade by the looks.
    My original top cap won't fit in the gap of the wishbone bracket so I'm assuming they both attach underneath?
    Have spoken with Dennis cling a couple of times, he's been a great help.
     
  29. Got a picture?
     
  30. junk yard kid
    Joined: Nov 11, 2007
    Posts: 2,718

    junk yard kid
    Member

    I bought the aluminum adapter by itself at a garage sale for 20 bucks a couple years ago. Couldnt find any of the other stuff. Now ill have to check if its a clings and i can buy the other parts. Thanks guys
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.