Termites and Bowties- Early Chevy Group

I have noticed that also over there it is hard to find fenders for our oldies. I have all 4 but in really bad shapes and you can understand it is mission impossible to find some here in Sweden. I have not decided yet if i shall repair mine or make new one. Have build English Wheel combined with a bead roller so hope i atleast can make those parts which is most bad. But for now my floor is most important

 

Joe, you never really answered my questions attempting to help you sort out your problem.

Disc brakes use 3/16 line, drum brakes use 1/4 line.
As previously posted above for you earlier, many factors play into proper performing brakes.
Combination distribution valve for disc drum, disc disc , must be the right one .
Dual diaphragm booster is preferred over single unit as it exerts more line pressure.
Vacuum from engine in the 12--15 inch reading at idle , will not have the brakes working properly
Steady 18--21 inches of vacuum is whats needed, requires a SSBC electric vacuum pump
Brake pedal ratio minimum of 5--1 needed to operate brakes properly.
Power master cylinder for power brakes and NON power for no booster.

Went thru all this on my 35 coupe, the new motor with big camshaft lift and duration produced only 13" of vacuum. Installed the electric vacuum pump and corrected the problem.
mike

 

Fenders are available by searching EBAY usa, the problem is a majority of Americans do not ship outside their own borders. Its their prerogative. I have purchases shipped to a friend in NY state and every 3-4 months drive down to get my purchases and bring them home to Ontario Canada, they do not ship to us either. !!!!!!!!!!! Their parts their choice who they sell too.
Biggest cost is not the parts but the shipping costs and government taxes to import the item. Plus the currency exchange, currently .30 cents on the dollar. OUCH

If you have a relative or friend in USA who will accept packages and shipments for you, do it.

mike lynch

 

this is not a "rule" that needs to be followed. line size does not change anything.

 

Well ty Mike, i have found some in us also, but i dont like the price on them and neither the prices on freight, can send it to adress in states, but from there to my home it is to expensive, i cant spend so much on that. I always try to do things by myself then i know what i have, have started repair but lot to learn how my machine work

 

The factory cars Camero, firechickens , Mustangs and cougars that used disc front , drum rear used 3/16 for the front stock and 1/4 for the drums rears.

The 3/16 line when used for the rears with drums , applies too much line pressure causing the rears to lock up before the fronts come on.

Drum brakes wheel cylinders require larger *volume of fluid*, which is why they use 1/4" line

I believe ?

mike

 

Swedish KRONA costs 100 krona to buy $10.38 USA dollars. Ya gonna get expensive

mike lynch

 

Then you understand why i try to do most things myself, i am not a rich man
Leif

 

TURBO............life is a whole lot easier when you start with something decent and in top shape, sure it will cost you more initially, but in the end you will spend less time , money searching for better parts. Never mind the labor involved in trying to fix whats wrong.

More cars get wrecked and scrapped because people finally throw their hands up and white flag surrender like Frenchmen.

Whats that old refrain, " don't try to make a silk purse out of sows ear " .

Wise information

mike lynch

 

Wise word Mike, but in my case most satisfaction is to build and repair things and hopefully have them finished and have done so in nearly 40 year now, as a hobby . I finished restoring a wreck of mustang -66 convertible 2 years ago, my friends told me it should never be ready, but it is . Then i started this building just for fun, crazy i cant stop make such stupid things, no white flag here
Leif

 

LEIF..........enjoy yourself and post pictures as your doing it.
mike

 

Sorry I must admit I have not looked through this complete form just yet tried to search and yielded nothing I just bought a family project “1931 Chevy coupe” We are missing a driver door and I haven’t had any luck locating one from what I have seen 31 chevys are year specific? Will post a picture later as to I’m on the work iPad

I look forward to building this car with my old man and brother

Thanks Justin McCann

 

try the usual...search ebay daily for new listings re the door or just 31 Chevrolet parts. Get HEMMINGS MOTOR NEWS , search the 1916--1954 ? Chevrolet parts for sale. Place a wanted ad with CALL YOU COLLECT in Chevrolet *parts wanted* hemmings motor news.

happy hunting

mike lynch

 

was just cruising thru NEWEST LISTINGS on ebay, there is a complete 1935 master rad shell trim ring , grill insert, grill badge , all in like new condition

mike lynch

 

Pretty penny


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And it looks like there’s a dent in it


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At $1200 its many many penny's. At least its complete and in reasonably good condition.

How did you make out with your brakes not working properly ??????

Some bozo building a rattus roddus would snap this up, figure out a way to rust it up and slap it on a ford at a 45 degree angle.================mike lynch

 

Breaks are working, but still having carb issues, once I get get that figured out, working on all my fenders this winter, then I put those on and paint the car , interior guy working on it right , I’m closing in on it


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JOE---what is the carb issue your having , maybe somebody on here can help with info. ??

Type of carb, CFM , motor size and type.

mike

 

Running a 364 nailhead, four Stromburg big 97’s... I think I’m putting way to much fuel in the manifolds, fouling out the plugs, I disconnect led the back two carbs and is running better so think I need to rejet the cabs , just not sure how much, any info out there ??


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Joe, that's right you got that great looking buick nailhead with 4 ....1 barrels.??

It looks like you have a fuel pressure regulator down low on the right front. Hopefully with a gauge attached so you can see what it is when its idling. The guys at crank and chrome tv show of 15 years ago , Sam Memollo and Dave, said that fuel pressure on a carburetor should not be any more than 5 1/2 pounds. These carbs may have suggested lower pressure settings ???? More than that will bend the floats and cause flooding , too rich mixture. I never forgot what they said, stuck in my brain.

The weber four 48 IDF carbs I am going to run , suggested fuel pressure is to be no more than 3 1/2 max .

Check that all the floats are set correctly to right height.
Check all jets are the same size
Check that the carbs are all adjusted air-fuel idle screws the same.
That's all i got for you..........

.I would post over in the HAMB or jalopy section of this website as I assume there would be lots of people who can help you with correct answers. I know I asked questions over there and got lots of good answers to a couple of problems.

Mike Lynch

 

Thank you for the reply I have been checking eBay every day no luck just yet

 

JOE, just typed into my search engine, google, ....".Stromberg 97 carburetor troubleshooting ".


There was a lot of threads / posts to keep you reading for a while. I would do that to get a good idea of where to begin in sorting the problems.
mike lynch

 

Try online group VCCA CHAT and try a wanted ad in the wanted section

mike

 

I am trying to find 31 2 door sedan doors. No luck so far. I have a nice set of 29 doors that seem to fit but need modifications for the reveal on the side and window openings to match the 31 body. That will be my worst case scenario.

 

Just googled "Stromberg carburetor 97 recommended fuel pressure', assorted answers are 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 pounds.

There was a whole lot of info posted there.

mike lynch

 

I am curious as to if the 5 window coupe doors will interchange between the Tudor sedans or not mine is a 31 coupe I have one passenger 31 door in really bad shape I have been thinking about making a mound out of it the. A 29 front door passenger door as well in decent shape