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Technical Stuck distributor

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by junkyardjeff, Aug 13, 2018.

  1. junkyardjeff
    Joined: Jul 23, 2005
    Posts: 8,588

    junkyardjeff
    Member

    The distributor in the 351-W I put in my F100 is stuck,been letting it warm up and soaking with PB Blaster but still will not budge. Was there any kind of tool made to grab on to a distributor as the vise grips are not doing the job.
     
  2. oldolds
    Joined: Oct 18, 2010
    Posts: 3,407

    oldolds
    Member

    They can be a bugger. Time and patience. I have broken a couple. Try putting the tube from the blaster on starting fluid. Sometimes that cuts oil better.
     
  3. choptop40
    Joined: Dec 23, 2009
    Posts: 5,113

    choptop40
    Member

    Hey hey...a basin wrench might work...it's the tool that's used for plumbing to reach under the sink to loosen the faucet...
     
  4. No specific tool that I know of ??
    You may have to take it apart then put it back together after a cleaning and might as well get good internals what ever they may be

    Sent from my VS996 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    Unkl Ian likes this.

  5. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 33,861

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I've got some black powder that will get it out. The valve covers and pan might not like it though.
     
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  6. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 23,263

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I once picked op a 1969 Cougar, with a 351C, by the distributor, with a forklift.

    Still did not come out.
     
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  7. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 55,931

    squirrel
    Member

    this usually works. Might need a new distributor when you're done.

    tekton-chisel.jpg
     
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  8. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 23,263

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    That does indeed work.
     
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  9. BamaMav
    Joined: Jun 19, 2011
    Posts: 6,709

    BamaMav
    Member
    from Berry, AL

    Been there, done that. Traded the car off it was still stuck. Aluminum distributor shaft and cast iron block + moisture and time = electrolysis corrosion due to the two dissimilar metals. That's why anytime I pull a Ford distributor, I coat it with antiseize before it goes back in.

    You'll probably have to beat it out from the bottom side. Not fun.
     
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  10. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 33,861

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I was thinking old wood chisel to jimmy it up. I broke one trying to get it out one time and had to buy the customer a replacement.
     
  11. Wedges, and a LOT of heat ?
     
  12. Truck64
    Joined: Oct 18, 2015
    Posts: 5,325

    Truck64
    Member
    from Ioway

    Some folks say, it's still there today.

    Wait, no. That ain't it. How'd ya get it outta there?
     
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  13. junkyardjeff
    Joined: Jul 23, 2005
    Posts: 8,588

    junkyardjeff
    Member

    I do have another distributor so I can destroy the one that is in it,I will have to look into that plumbers basin wrench. I think it needs a timing chain so the cover is going to come off and should have more room to grab at the distributor with the water pump out of the way.
     
  14. classiccarjack likes this.
  15. Hnstray
    Joined: Aug 23, 2009
    Posts: 12,355

    Hnstray
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Quincy, IL

    In all fairness, I have seen this in a Chevrolet engine as well. Any aluminum distributor housing/iron block is subject to it under the right conditions. At least in this case it is in the front of the engine compartment.
     
    Last edited: Aug 13, 2018
  16. BamaMav
    Joined: Jun 19, 2011
    Posts: 6,709

    BamaMav
    Member
    from Berry, AL

    I've never had it happen to me in a Chevy, but agree it's possible. First one was in a 289, I beat it out with a 5lb hammer. Second one was in a 302, never fixed it.
     
  17. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 23,263

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Hammer and chisel.
     
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  18. There's a process that I've heard of but never tried myself.

    It involved heating the block around the distributor, within reason. Maybe with a propane torch if it can be done safely, or maybe using an electric heat gun. Have something handy to pry up on the distributor housing and some insulated or heavy leather gloves. After applying heat to the block give the distributor housing a few blasts with a CO2 fire extinguisher to chill it quickly. Or maybe try packing the area around the housing with crushed dry ice. Hopefully the housing may shrink enough to break free of the block and allow you to twist the distributor back and forth while lifting and/or prying it upward.
     
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  19. UNSHINED 2
    Joined: Oct 30, 2006
    Posts: 1,164

    UNSHINED 2
    Member

    I had that same problem this weekend. Hammer and chisel, no go. Pipe wrench, no go. All this with PB Blaster of course....
    Over an hour into it....

    A few burps with a dull chisel bit in my impact gun....came right out. Gonna re-use the distributor....

    Almost forgot, had Max Gearhead on the opposite side with nice even upward pressure with a prybar....
     
  20. Boneyard51
    Joined: Dec 10, 2017
    Posts: 6,440

    Boneyard51
    Member

    Unshinned beat me to it. Dull air chisel, on low, kinda pushing up, and a little time will get them out. It’s the vibration that does the work.

    Bones
     
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  21. :D:D:D
     
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  22. GMC BUBBA
    Joined: Jun 15, 2006
    Posts: 3,420

    GMC BUBBA
    Member Emeritus

    Jeff, Snap on makes a puller fork piece that fits a axle puller. They work pretty good......
     
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  23. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 55,931

    squirrel
    Member

    if you had a picture, we could probably make our own? quick google doesn't find it.
     
  24. cshades
    Joined: Sep 2, 2011
    Posts: 554

    cshades
    Member
    from wi

    We have used the engine crane to put force on it, spray and hammer --- hope for the best. sometimes it comes out all together and sometimes it destroys it.
     
  25. RmK57
    Joined: Dec 31, 2008
    Posts: 2,659

    RmK57
    Member

    If it were easy enough to remove the oil pan you could pound it out through the bottom.
     
  26. Hnstray
    Joined: Aug 23, 2009
    Posts: 12,355

    Hnstray
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Quincy, IL

    "IF" my Aunt had balls, she'd be my Uncle! :D

    Ray
     
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  27. Beanscoot
    Joined: May 14, 2008
    Posts: 3,053

    Beanscoot
    Member

    Yes, Snap-on did make a special tool for this. I found it in an old catalog but I don't know where that catalog is now, if I find it I'll get a picture and part number of it.

    I have taken one out of a 221 the hard way, wrecked the dizzy and chipped a gear tooth.

    I also recently successfully (as in no damage) removed a stuck dizzy from a 390 with the usual soaking in miracle spray plus careful prying and twisting.
    I guess now I know just how much that thin aluminum distributor housing can take.
     
  28. LM14
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,936

    LM14
    Member Emeritus
    from Iowa

    Have one stuck in a ‘67 390 GT that I don’t think has ever been messed with. Sawzall across the body so I could get the intake off for mock-up with the dual quad intake for engine height/location. Been soaking it 2 years. Nothing has touched it. Time is about here to get serious. Will be either heat/hammer or just put it on the engine stand and beat it out from the bottom. Time to stop being nice.
     
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  29. Truck64
    Joined: Oct 18, 2015
    Posts: 5,325

    Truck64
    Member
    from Ioway

    If I had some ham, I could make a ham sandwich, if I had some bread.
     
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