Projects 1926 Chevy Update, advice needed.

These and the other additions you plan will make it a great reliable cruiser!...oh and guys if he keeps all the stock stuff in the barn none of this requires any major modifications that can't be easily undone

 

Wouldn’t stress old wood wheels , new made wheels with quality wood and all new hardware maby, up to a point, but you only get to die once, no coming back, why not go with something that doesn’t leave you thinking “what would an engineer say”. As I said before I’m more worried about the old “ball” wheel bearings. Do the brakes and steering and it won’t be terrible, might even be not bad

 

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1932-chevy-axle-5x4-3-4-conversion.230167/page-1

 

haha think about it: 90 year old wood. cornering forces. Or newer brakes that work. Ah, you are right - what could possibly go wrong?

 

Seems like no one here really knows.

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I inserted a pic of the "original car" when I pulled it out of a barn in 1996, where it had set for 48 years. And while I appreciate the concept, I am quite certain that while the car will go thru upgrades, it will not lose its conventional look. I live in Indiana, our roads are like graph paper, few hills, even fewer curves and driving this car in high speed traffic at 70 mph is not something I'd consider. I've appreciated the ideas expressed here and am leaning towards a whole new front axle assembly and using my wire wheels.

 

I know that while I will never have a wooden spoke wheel car, the idea intrigues me. The Remington carriage museum is not too far so I've sent them a email regarding this. The guys that designed these cars 90 years ago were probably as smart or smarter than we are.

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David,

Adding the wire wheels, or switching to Artillery style wheels (an option for '26) will increase safety. I also like the idea of keeping it a 4! You can also use a later front axle, which has been said before, that will give you the option of adding disc brakes up front. You should be able to use front axles all the way up to '59 that still use the same 6 lug pattern- that way you can still use those wire wheels or artillery rims. For the rear end, the Toyota 4Runner/Tacoma/etc will give you plenty of durability and strength, and that same 6 lug pattern!

 

I've put a lot of thought into what everybody has said, and seriously pondered what I want from this upgrade. Before I explain what I intend to do, let me just say that I simply would NEVER put any foreign car part into my father's Chevy. (Toyota rear end) He was drafted in the early spring of 1945, became a SeaBee with the Navy, and saw first hand the horrors the Japanese did to the Philippine people and Islands. Besides what he saw, he lost his best child friend to the Japanese on Okinawa. The older he grew, the more he seemed to despise the atrocities he saw there, and that carried over to his attitude toward "Jap wagons" regardless where they were built.

I do appreciate the suggestion, but I have had Moser from Portland In., (they are within driving distance for me) modify my S10 rear end to accept the wood wheels
At this point I have decided to incorporate power steering, using Speedway's power Vega steering box, and install a power master cylinder for the brakes. I will get the engine in, upgrade the steering, and see how it drives and stops with the new brakes on the rear. IF I am not happy, or feel unsafe, I will upgrade the entire front axle with one, again from Speedway, and use the smaller disc brakes setup they offer, and go with the wire wheels. Nothing I do in setting up the steering and new brakes will be in vain should I choose to upgrade the front axle.
Now, I have never planned to drive this car hard. Traffic in our area is not what it is in some places others have posted from, specifically many parts California. I expect to cruise backroads at 50, only about 10 mph faster than before, and the Good Lord knows I won't be doing any hard cornering here, I'm not sure where I could even find a good curve to put the kind of stress on the old car that some have seemed to be so worried about. I am currently finishing up a 2016 Camaro project for my wife, and hopefully this next week, I'll get started in earnest with getting the old power plant out, and starting to fit the new. I plan on starting a build thread to share my progress. And again, my goals have always been to keep the look of the 26 Chevy intact. That is why I have chosen the Iron Duke, carburetored 4 cyl.

If anyone is interested, I will have the old power train, and a multitude of extra parts available for sale. I mentioned before that the engine is a 1928 Chevy with the dual exhaust ports. Beside the complete engine, with one bad rod, it had been line bored BTW, I have at least one other head, several crankshafts, 8-12 connecting rods, intakes and carbs, and other misc engine an sedan body parts. Feel free to contact me and I'd see if I have what you might need.

Thanks again for all the posts and advice, I appreciate them all.

Dave

 

What's great is that, since there are literally zero other cars ever on the road, a failure doesn't risk the lives of anyone else who didn't sign up to be on the road with old wooden wheels, no front brakes, questionable bearings, etc.

As planned, this is a parade car only. Flame away.

 

A parade car?? Well actually yes!! Everywhere I drive it, everywhere I go is a parade!! I often have attatched multiple American flags to it. I get waves and thumbs ups, and little boys and girls asking their parents if they can have a ride!! Sometimes the mom's ride along too! Thanks for the reminder of great evenings out in the Old Chevy and why I want to UPGRADE it !!

 

I vote don't endanger others who didn't sign up for it just because you don't feel like building something safe to drive.

 

i don't think this is the issue here, there is a safety "upgrade" planned, the modern rear brakes. problem is i think the trade off of not being able to down shift, makes it a wash. the op will know the first time he drives it how safe it feels and hopefully adjust to a driving style that is within the original safety margins. then upgrade the front brakes and steering, as he has planned out.
should work fine if driven with caution.

 

We drove this car for 13 years with the rear only mechanical brakes, with obvious caution, without incident. The initial upgrade is only going to improve it. And, if I see it's not safe, I'll upgrade..
I'm a bit taken aback on what some folks are assuming about how this car will be driven.
As far as down shifting, rarely did it with the original non sychro 3 speed. I am still looking for a 700r4 which would offers a little more resistance than the power glide. Better initial gearing as well.

I'm just glad no body called for shoulder belts or airbags! Lol

 

I drove about 20 miles today in a car with 2 wheel brakes and wooden wheels that are older then this Chevy and I am here to tell about it. If you have to there are kits available to hide disc brakes on the rear. I have seen other old cars with them. BUT if functioning correctly the original brakes are not a problem. I see more problem coming from mixing parts that MAY not work together and make it more unsafe then you think it is now. As was said, fix the brakes, rebuild the engine and enjoy your Dad's car as it was intended.

 

Why, the HAMB, of course...

 

advise ASKED for, advice given......

 

I'd be interested in rockers for a 171 if you would part with them

 

I've still been pondering the switch to the wire wheels. I do not have hubcaps for my 19 inch wires. Can anyone point me in a better direction in locating some..... besides "Google?" I did not see any on Coker Tire, I did find some for $70 each. I do agree that the wires would be a "safer" way to go, and still keep the relatively tradition look.

 

Since I have been paying attention to Model T's,for about 8 years,I have read about 2 wood wheel catastrophes.
Both at low speeds. Both well maintained cars
Here is one. http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/art...b-president-killed-Ford-Model-T-accident.html

John

 

The Filling Station has them for $54.75 each, if you buy 4. I have a set of 6 early knock-off caps (that thread over the hubs) that are missing the "square" in the bowtie, if you're interested

 

Thank you for the info. As badly as I want to keep the look of the wooden wheels, a builder that I know and trust that also knows the car tends to agree with the wood wheel critics....
The wires will have to do I guess.

 

ask him about brakes too

 

If I go to the wires, it's the whole upgrade. Probably a new axle, but definitely front brakes as well. Most likely the small 9 1/2 inch disc brake set up offered by Speedway, axle, spindles, rotors, calipers, kingpins. Everything. Even those small rotors will over power the 19-4.75 tires I'll be running. But with four wheels brakes, it will be a completely different machine.

 

I didn't get a reply from the Remington carriage museum about wooden spoke wheels.

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do an online search. lots of info if you choose to believe it

 

I would definitely go to wire wheels and front brakes. The majority of the braking is done by the front brakes. You might want to hold off on the steering until you get a front axle decided on. If you want to jump into the steering now can you post some pictures of the existing steering? A cell phone camera is great because you can insert it places a DSLR won't go. Use an LED flashlight to illuminate the area when you take the picture. FYI my AVATAR has a 181 cubic inch Mercruiser marine engine, close to the iron duke.

Charlie Stephens

 

I have an all original 26 touring myself. I have gone back and forth on updating it and making it more of a driver but I just can't get past how original it is and don't want to mess that up.

 

Well, after weeks and months of pondering, and advice from folks here and that I know personally, I have decided to upgrade. It was a hard choice. You of course know the limitations of the stock version, that it can indeed be driven, but you have to know your limitations. IF my steering was at all decent, I would have probably just rolled with the original, but it was so bad it shimmied and was very sloppy. I have parts ordered, and I expect to get started in ernest on the demolition starting the 20th. I intend to post a build thread. Hopefully, with the semi-period wire wheels, and the 4 cyl it will still keep the aura of a stock Chevy, at least to most folks. I sure could use both bumpers if you have any spares?

 

If this had of been a Ford, no one would have batted an eye over the planned mods!

Hey guys, it's hot rodding! Granted, wood wheels and mechanical brakes aren't the greatest ideas in today's world, but better steering, wire wheels and hydraulic brakes sound just like what any of us would do. I'm glad the OP decided to go ahead and change the front axle to one that accepts brakes, it along with the S10 rear should stop it fine.

My only concern I haven't seen addressed is the frame itself, will it hold up to more HP from the Iron Duke? Cars back then were built to flex because of the poor roads, we have talked about that before on T frames how limber they are. I'm not familiar with the Chevy but figure it's about the same.

I've read right here on the HAMB that anybody could restore one, but it takes a man to cut one up. If the OP wants to cut his car up, who's to stop him? Not me!