Got a few parts yesterday... Comp cams roller tip rocker arms, pushrods, Lunati lifters. Then I hopped online and ordered cowl and rear quarter (wheel well) patch panels...
have you seen these... i have not tried one but i like the concept. http://www.raingearwipers.com/mighty-wiper/
@hrm2k Did you used to bring that car up to the Friday night Lowes Cruise-ins up by Bel Air? I know I have seen that car around somewhere before. Looks great! Chappy
Yes, I saw these at a nostalgia show a while back, I was thinking of running one of these when I get to that point.
Yeah, I'd prefer to not cut the top of my cowl and doubt it'll be necessary, but if push comes to shove.....
Ok, so sticking as much as possible with the "period correct" part of this build I just bought a Rochester 4GC carburetor #7011108 (needs rebuilt of course). All I know is that it was originally made for a 1958 348 c.i.d. engine. I figure it's probably plenty of carb for a mildly built 283, but does anyone know the actually CFM of this carb? I've seen some decent performance made with these and it's my understanding they get decent mpg at cruising speeds too. I've done some inter-web hunting and had little luck finding any info other than rebuild kits and applications. Any info would be great...
So, I did so more inter-web hunting and found this info. I'll just leave this here for others to read... Rochester 4G/4GC Used on a variety of GM automobiles from 1952 to 1967, including the 1961 to 1963 Buick/Oldsmobile/Pontiac aluminum 215 V8's, the 4G was Rochester's first four barrel. Produced in 486, 553, and 692 CFM ratings, the 4G uses a squarebore layout with a conventional fixed jet, power valve and accelerator pump metering scheme. Secondaries are mechanically actuated but use an adjustable spring loaded air valve. Adjustment is achieved by loosening an allen head set screw and inserting a screwdriver. Rotating the screwdriver counterclockwise increases tension. The accelerator pump is also adjustable, using a link with 5 adjustment holes. Four center pivot floats are used. The 4G's used the small diameter 4-7/32" diameter air cleaner, shared by the first generation Carter AFB's, so the usual aftermarket air filter cases will not fit. However there are adapter rings and street rod sources usually carry compatible air filter cases. While the Rochester book mentioned in the reference section briefly covers the 4G, your best bet for information is a GM shop manual from the '50's or '60's. Model /CFM Venturi Diameter/ Bore Diameter primary secondary / primary secondary 4 Jet/ 486 1 1/8 1 1/4 / 1 7/16 1 7/16 4 Jet/ 553 1 1/8 1 15/32 / 1 7/16 1 11/16 4 Jet/ 692 1 1/8 1 15/32 / 1 9/16 1 11/16 If you can get an older copy of the Doug Roe book on Rochester Carburetors, it has a pretty good section on the 4G. jf If you need an air filter adapter for the 4G, the Mr.Gasket pn is 2082, to use a standard 5-1/8" filter base.
Long story short, my carb is the middle size 553 CFM. I think with what I'm trying to build, that should be pretty close to perfect as a carb size.
Well... I just dropped $1300 for chassis parts and haven't even bought tubing to build the frame yet, guess I'm committed to this build now
Before you start the frame i recomend to use some wood to mock up your build. Thats where i started on my build to mess with the stuff until i liked what i see. Then i could take my measurements to do a blueprint for my frame. Some common misstakes on T-builds is a radiator sticking up to high and to stretched out wheelbase.
Thanks. Some more advices from me. Theese cars run out of space quickly so keep the channeling to a minimum. So a angle on the frame is the right way to go. To keep the engine nice to the body you problaby need to modify the top of the firewall. I did reversed the upper part on my firewall to keep the engine where i wanted. Not the style you shooting for but this is how my mock up are today after many nights and weekends.
And some info on hinges. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/official-model-a-t-hinge-info-thread.605123/
AndersF… That's a sweet looking build you have there. Is that a 331 engine? Gots to love a hemi I was going to go that route, but it's costly and since I already had a 283 to build and I know my way around a sbc, I figured I'd go that route instead.
Mocking up front end parts, I know the leaf spring is sitting lower than it should, but I don't have any bushings in it. They're really tight and I didn't want to damage them to get them back out for powder coating. Looks like it all fits properly though.
Its a 270 Dodge from 55. A good motor i didnt have a car for. So this was the cheap and easy way for me to go. But back in the day the chevy was the hottest you could use. Nice looking ,light weight and plenty of performance.
I talked to my frame builder, he's coming over on Thursday to look over my parts and help make plans for my frame.
I'm thinking I may need to change direction on my rear spring... How much clearance between the top of the pumpkin and the underside of the car is normally needed? The high arch spring I bought is going to be WAY to tall... From what i'm seeing, the top of my tires would be almost even with the bottom of the rear wheel well. That's no Bueno... I'm really considering switching to the spring in the link below. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Posi...0-Ford-Rear-Leaf-Spring-2-1-2-Drop,37167.html
When the time comes......don't whine about having to "beat-up" the firewall so's you can get to that damn "shivelay" dizzy. FoMoCo's got'em right there in the front(right in the way of the blower!!) J/K.....watch'in how you "V" the frame. Gonna have the radiator in the trunk, or what?!! 6sally6
Lollllzzz… Radiator is going out front where is belongs. I'm more than likely going to run a chopped down 32 radiator, I'll have a better idea of how chopped I'll need once the body is mounted up. I'm not overly concerned about the firewall, it actually needs a little love anyway, so if I need to I might make a "pocket" for that "Shivelay" dizzy to be recessed into. I do plan to run a small body style dizzy though, HEI is just the wrong look I.M.O. for an old style rod.
Almost forgot, I ordered that other Posies' rear spring (it showed up yesterday), I'm gonna be in much better shape now, for making everything sit the way I want it. My "hard to reach" goal, is to NOT Z the rear of the frame and to NOT make axle slots in the rear wheel wells. It's a real balancing act of measuring to get "the look" I am wanting. Keep in mind, I'm not trying to "duplicate" the orange car, I am just using that as a sort-of inspirational design. My plan all along, was to be able see the wheel wells and not have the back tire quite as far up the body line. I just hope I'm happy with it when it's bolted together... It's always a little unnerving building this stuff and "hoping" you're in love with the visions "of sugar plums" you've had dancing in your head.
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