Projects Tapping fitting in a master cylinder.

Want to install a remote fill for my master cylinder.do not want to cut a hole in the floor board.i made the front floor board removable on the 31 model A.incase I need to get to the shifter or trans.is it possible to drill n tap cast iron?I believe that is what it is made of.tks

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The lid is steel. The body of the master cyl. is cast iron. You can drill and tap either one, but the lid may be too thin to hold a thread.

 

I was thinking the same. Thinking of tapping the larger reservoir and drill I small hole between the two reservoir to maintain the same level. Maybe mount the reservoir on the fire wall or in the back of the sedan.

 

put a hole in the lid , no tap , put a fitting in that seals both sides( gasket)

 

I think that small hole would defeat the purpose of the split reservoirs. How will you ascertain that the level is low without popping the cap of the reservoir? Perhaps you'll need a remote reservoir plumbed into the master cylinder and use that for checking the fluid level.

 

not following what your saying.

 

I have a remote reservoir that will feed the master cylinder. That way wont have to remove the cap.

 

Where do you propose to mount reservoir as it needs to be above MC and accessible? A buddy did similar with an aluminum top on the MC with a hose to remote on firewall near rear of engine. I just put a blister on floor to cover, readily accessible if and when required as it's under front seat.





I've yet to tidy it up and put rivnuts in lieu of screws, only 15yrs now. My MC also has a small breather hole so a remote filler wouldn't work unless I changed the cap to a sealed machined one with hose fittings.

 

Why not use a Chrysler m/c (or other) which is set up without a reservoir, but comes with connectors for supply from a remote reservoir. VW Super Beetles have a cool translucent reservoir and a similar m/c.

 

Used a VW reservoir on my brothers pickup. We mounted it on the firewall and ran the hoses to the master. The reservoir is split, so you can tell if one side is low vs the opposite side. I drilled and tapped 1/8 pipe into the side of the m/c and used the same type hose as VW used. Also put gasket sealer on the lid to be sure there were no leaks.

 

I forgot about VW's going to check that and Chryslers out also.This is the last thing to do before setting the body on for good. A LONG TIME COMING!

 

sorry should have said bulkhead fitting , as for checking m/s level it would show on remote res. if level is down . fill master and fill res. to a certain level

 

Some 90's Mitsubishi cars have a remote master reservoir with a low level indicator switch built in. Popular as replacements on Jaguars when the OEM 'wine cork' float in theirs sinks....

 

I don't have a brass fitting catalog in front of me but you should be able to use a nut and gasket on any brass fitting that seats against a gasket in it's normal install.
Most of those double master cylinders use a diaphragm style gasket to keep dirt an moisture out but you could and would have to cut the center out of it if you put fittings in the cap. That would let you use one remote and one line. I've been pondering it for a while on my 48 for the same reason.

 

Uh, what's wrong with a hole in the floor? Do you all just have bad backs?

I'd much rather deal with a small hatch in the floorboard than a bunch of extra fittings, hoses, and reservoirs.

 

That's what I did. Much easier IMO

 

I do the door in the floor. 5 years on the 36, check it once a year, never added fluid.
Building another the same way.

 

If you cut the center out of the m/c or drill a small hole in it won't that make a single m/c or am i wrong just asking thanks

 

Keep in mind that if you use a traditional master cylinder and drill it to feed fluid from a remote supply, drill that fitting as high as you can on the M/C, because it will not fill beyond the top of that hole due to air being trapped in the M/C reservoir. This assumes that your cap has an airtight seal to the M/C.

Feeding fluid into the M/C cap would keep the amount of air trapped in the M/C to a minimum.

 

I made a remote reservoir for my car but couldn't come up with a proper hose that was brake fluid resistant locally but found it easily on ebay.

 

I just used a brake line on a forklift that was difficult to check or fill. I drilled and tapped the master cylinder and the plastic reservoir. In that case I was able to put the reservoir at the correct level in a more accessable position.

 

FYI, Helix is Hoffman Group, so OP may want to look at other brand options if going this route.

 

OMG!. My bad. Don't order from them! Just showing there are products out there that are built for the purpose... Or an easy part to knock off on the bridgeport.

 

Nope, there’s more to it than that, it would partially defeat the purpose of a tandem master though


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Tks guys this is a lot of good info. If I was to install a remote reservoir, tap two lines in so you would know which reservoir is low. Cutting a door in the floor is the easier route! thanks again!

 

punch a hole and put a cover over it. If you have to go remote due to space limitation, you can cut the resevior down for fitting clearence, the vent hole for the fluid must be in the external fill res. and baffled to keep fluid from spitting out. Both Willwood and Tilton offer remote fill systems

 

I know there are many solutions for remote fills and reservoirs for underfloor m/c's. I too did not want to lift the floor carpet and panel to check and refill the reservoir. I simply do it from underneath the car using a pump oil can (though it is now a dedicated brake fluid can) with a flexible nozzle. Pretty simple actually and works well.

 

Lifting the floor mat seems much easier than the alternatives!