Projects 1932 Ford Roadster Build- "The Template Roadster"

I would call H&H Flathead and ask them about your pulley. The one in their catalog is also a large diameter.

Since were talking about pulleys, the 32 front cross member doen't allow much room for pulleys without removing some metal. You may want to consider a model A front cross member since your going with the water pump mounts.

 

Talked with Mr. Herman (senior) tonight and he was kind enough to sell me the missing pieces! Bought the crank pulley hub as well as the hub connector which seals the crank to the front seal. I also bought a cam gear adapter which will convert my 59a cam (Winfield SU1-a) to an 8BA style so I can run an 8ba style dizzy which will work better with the blower kit I have (8ba pulleys etc...)

 

Had some time in the garage this weekend to start working on engine/ trans mockup. I bought a set of aftermarket side mount brackets but they just didn't look right so I reworked the front crossmember and I am hoping this will do the job.

 

H&H parts came this week also:

 

K member legs....

So I wanted to add some legs but needed something custom as I had to trim my K-member. I bought some chassis engineering scraps from a friend who had belled the holes and started to set it up for a 32. It was perfect fabrication material so I ran with it.....

 

After I cleaned up the legs and welded on the passenger side flange, I mocked up the trans....



A couple weeks ago I ordered a set of headers from Reds setup for an F100 box and they fit absolutely perfect....

 

Wow! Great job on the K-member! Headers look good, too!

 

Thanks!

 

This weeks update: I had the mobile blast guy come out to the house and clean up the body and some other parts so I could get it into epoxy. I still have more metal work to do, but I wanted to get it in primer and I am off on vacation so I had time to deal with it. For this, he used recycled glass and it cleaned even the pitted areas really well.

 

Once the epoxy cured, I set the body back on for a final wheel placement check before shortening the torque tube.

 

Looks great Matt! It's going to be a knock out, keep up the good work.

 

Thanks Jeff!

 

Rear crossmember:

So I mothballed the flat crossmember as I wanted more rear ride travel than I could squeeze out of it. Replaced with a model A and fabbed up some brackets for the forward edge. These will eventually get rivoted in, but bolted for mockup. I only wanted to weld across the top so if I ever wanted or needed to remove it someday, I wouldn't have to try and cut vertical welds inside the frame channel. Plus it looks cooler and more factory. I also c-nitched the frame rails. Inhate the looks of a c-channel but I also wanted good ride travel. It sounds crazy but I have about 6 hours into these damn things asy band saw is terrible and they are thick!

 

Trans mount

I wanted a factory looking mount- not something purchased. For this job- only a recycle will do. I found some old truck engine mount brackets (62 Chevy?) in my scrap pile that had nice shape to them, so I cut them up and started welding and grinding. I made the trans side bracket out of shaped flat stock, and also turned a 1937 trans bracket upside down to get more clearance for the mounts- this is 2 days of welding and grinding.

In the last 2 photos you can see the adjustable mockup torque tube I borrowed from CTalbert to get the length dialed in...

 

Great build! You've got a good eye and the necessary skills to make some beautiful brackets.
I might have missed it, but are the trans front and rear adapters from the same place, MDL?
Oh yeah, before I forget: Do you have plans for the luggage rack, or is it something you would consider selling or trading?

 

Hey there- torque tube adapter is made by Katokings here on the HAMB and it works really nicely.

As far the rack goes- I'm gonna keep it for the roadster. Sorry!

Thanks for the compliments!
Matt

 

Great build keep the updates coming.

 

Love this build - especially the fabrication! Thanks for all the photos.
~ Carl

 

Worked on the top plate for the x-member this weekend. Because I had to trim out the upper portion of the k-member, I needed to close out the top with something strong. I used 14 gauge sheet which sounds thin, but I edged it with 1/8" plate steel and doubles the flange area where it bolts down. I also bought a cool 2" dimple die and so now everything in the car will be covered in 2" holes ...

 

Also fabbed up the brake pedal bracket from some parts from Ionia hotrod shop:

 

Hold on right there bud! That transmission rear mount is a dam work of art....Plus the top cover on the K member is pure hot rod porn!
Now get back after it and I will get another beer for the next part of this great build....

 

Thanks a lot! It means a lot coming from you!

 

Quick change clearance.... Not a ton of pictures on this one, but I wanted to run a stock tank and I don't like the idea of welding up on an old tank, so I did some research on the HAMB and came up with the following: moved the spreader bar back 3/4" by cutting and splicing the rear of the frame rails. Trimmed the front flange of the tank and then went after the remaining flange with a pair of pliers to create a clearance "flair" in 3 discreat areas. Also, I am using just studs and nuts for the Q/C cover because it looks more utilitarian and it provides more clearance than the big chrome acorn nuts. This whole setup results in about 1/4" to 1/2" clearance from the upper/ center quick change cover stud to the tank. So now I just need to drill new holes in the frame or in the tank so everything bolts up. The tank in the picture is a rough mockup tank. I have a nicer one coming.

 

I picked this little gem up from Doc Parsons and I am really excited! I have only seen 2 pictures of one of these and never any in person. If any of you know the history on these Thomas Engineering Co wheel quick releases, please let me know me know

I'll need someone with better Tig skills than me to build up weld on the broken ear, but this should be a super cool piece to go with the 17" 4-spoke wheel.

 

Tooled around with the m/c bracket yesterday and found a nice small 1" bore m/c that has outlets on the opposite side to make it easy to run it over to the frame rail- check it out :

 

Try moving the spreader bar even further back. You will need to make new end plates The bolt closest to the end of the frame will be inside the spreader bar. Just drill and tap the end plate. This will allow the tank to go back and you shouldn't have to notch it. I have not done this yet, so don't take it as a proven method.

 

I moved it 3/4" and with that it clears no problem. The pics are a little deceiving.

 

This is an awesome build. I just started putting together an original 32' roadster body that's in a bit rougher shape than yours and your photos are a great reference. Thanks for the detailed thread and keep up the killer work. Jim

 

Thanks Jim- appreciate that! Let me know if you need any measurements.

 

This car is going to be awesome. Following !